2007 Ford Explorer XLT battery drain problem

[omero]

Hi,

I have a 2007 Ford Explorer XLT having a battery drainage problem. I replaced the battery thinking it's the problem with no luck. using a multimeter and by removing the terminals and connecting it inline, the drain was fluctuating between 0.420 A and 0.360 A every few seconds. I removed all the fuses under the dash one by one and the drain was still there.

So, I did a Parasitic battery drain test. Connected a multimeter inline and started removing fuses and relays. First, in the Battery Junction Box (BJB) under the hood then, I went to the Smart Junction Box fuses (SJB) inside the car under the dash.

So here are the readings I got corresponding to the fuses removed:

First: in the BJB (under the hood):

F2: the drain is 0.20 steady.
F3: fluctuating between 0 - 0.02 (normal reading)

Note that F2 only drain when F3 is connected.

Second: in the fuse box under the dash

F2: fluctuating between 0.18 - 0.25
F3: fluctuating between 0.17 - 0.19 but doesn't drop immediatly, it takes 5 seconds.
F24: 0.20 steady.

alse I tested removing 2 at a time.
F2 & F3: fluctuating between 0 - 0.02 (like removing F3 in BJB)
F2 & F24: 0.06 steady.
F3 & F24: 0.17 steady.

Note that F24 only drains when both F2 or F3 is connected, so when both F2 &F3 are removed, F24 won't drain.

After that, I removed the radio and disconnected the sunload light sensor because it's LED caused 0.02 fluctuation.

So, without the radio and sensor, I repeated the test and the readings where as follows:

First, in the BJB:

when removing F2 nothing changes, drain stays 0.17
when removing F3, drain drops to 0

Second, in the SJB

when removing F2, drain drops to 0
when removing F3 nothing changes, drain stays 0.17
when removing F24 nothing changes, drain stays 0.17

So when I remove the radio, the only drain I have is from F2 in SJB.

I also checked wires behind the radio for both radio and sensor and all were fine, no shorts.

So to wrap up, I have a drain in fuse #2 under the dash.

Any suggestions?

 

[michael loibl]

My 2006 v6 has a steady 0.17 amp drain when parked with nothing on, doors closed, and nothing hanging out of the power ports. It has had it since new, but i never got as far as pulling individual fuses to isolate source. I often leave it for a week at a time and worry it will be dead. Dealer said drain was "within specs" but could not tell me what the spec was. I was told by several independant mechanics that a typical parasydic drain is about 0.025 - 0.050 amps. so i am 3 to 6 times higher. my other cars draw 0.021 and 0.028 amps.

 

[omero]

thank you roy your reply,

According to the TSB HERE the drain should not exceed 0.50 A, and the battery should retain start ability when car left 30 days. So I believe there's a problem.

I'm going to try using a relay to disconnect the fuses by making the relay triggered by acc. I'll try that and post the results.

 

[Benfrench]

I have the same issue with my 06. If I leave it for 4-5 days it is dead.

 

[aaronajb1981]

do you have any aftermarket remote starts or alarms?? or dealer installed

if so, the way the door looks are hooked up may be causing this.

 

[omero]

do you have any aftermarket remote starts or alarms?? or dealer installed

if so, the way the door looks are hooked up may be causing this.

Yes, I do have a dealer installed remote start with keyless entry.
I read somewhere that I should have a diode inline with the door lock connection. Should that be the solution?

 

[aaronajb1981]

It "should" be... the diode on the lock wire. my notes even tell me to do that..

Funny they even install it incorrectly. Just shows you that the dealerships dont know how to install aftermarket stuff (that is an aftermarket unit with just a ford logo on the remote).

Even the tsb calls out for that...to check for aftermarket remote starts/ keyless

If you had the dealer install it i would take it back to them and have them fix it.

 

[omero]

Thanks aaronajb1981, God bless you, I have been confused for a long time.

Regarding the remote, I downloaded the installation guide and installed it my self with the help from what I know from engineering, actually, I ordered the remote myself from USA then the dealership here told me that they don't know how to install it and when I had the problem they quoted me $4K to replace behind the dash harnesses and SJB first and then they will see!

I'll order diodes from radioshack and install them, is THIS the way to install the diodes?

 

[aaronajb1981]

Sorry its been a long time since i have used one (been out of th professional install world about 4 years now), however i want to say the stripe (cathode) side of the diode will go between the keyless wire and the factory harness.

but yes that guide should help..

after i posted before i saw it said kuwait for where you are located

 

[omero]

Thanks a lot, I'll put the diodes and see.

 

[carbizindio]

I have the same .17 amp draw issue, #2 fuse inside the car stops the draw. So I take it this is normal?

 

[oharris]

Did you find a solution? I'm having a similar problem with an '07 Mountaineer.

 

[Bryan Latimer]

Hi,

I have a 2007 Ford Explorer XLT having a battery drainage problem. I replaced the battery thinking it's the problem with no luck. using a multimeter and by removing the terminals and connecting it inline, the drain was fluctuating between 0.420 A and 0.360 A every few seconds. I removed all the fuses under the dash one by one and the drain was still there.

So, I did a Parasitic battery drain test. Connected a multimeter inline and started removing fuses and relays. First, in the Battery Junction Box (BJB) under the hood then, I went to the Smart Junction Box fuses (SJB) inside the car under the dash.

So here are the readings I got corresponding to the fuses removed:

First: in the BJB (under the hood):

F2: the drain is 0.20 steady.
F3: fluctuating between 0 - 0.02 (normal reading)

Note that F2 only drain when F3 is connected.

Second: in the fuse box under the dash

F2: fluctuating between 0.18 - 0.25
F3: fluctuating between 0.17 - 0.19 but doesn't drop immediatly, it takes 5 seconds.
F24: 0.20 steady.

alse I tested removing 2 at a time.
F2 & F3: fluctuating between 0 - 0.02 (like removing F3 in BJB)
F2 & F24: 0.06 steady.
F3 & F24: 0.17 steady.

Note that F24 only drains when both F2 or F3 is connected, so when both F2 &F3 are removed, F24 won't drain.

After that, I removed the radio and disconnected the sunload light sensor because it's LED caused 0.02 fluctuation.

So, without the radio and sensor, I repeated the test and the readings where as follows:

First, in the BJB:

when removing F2 nothing changes, drain stays 0.17
when removing F3, drain drops to 0

Second, in the SJB

when removing F2, drain drops to 0
when removing F3 nothing changes, drain stays 0.17
when removing F24 nothing changes, drain stays 0.17

So when I remove the radio, the only drain I have is from F2 in SJB.

I also checked wires behind the radio for both radio and sensor and all were fine, no shorts.

So to wrap up, I have a drain in fuse #2 under the dash.

Any suggestions?

I have the identical issue and readings in 2007 mountaineer. Was a solution found?

 

[davidmmm69]

do you have any aftermarket remote starts or alarms?? or dealer installed

if so, the way the door looks are hooked up may be causing this.

How so?

 

[Tomr362]

How were you able to test the fuses under the front dash without having the door open. Would not the open door trigger the interior lights??

 

[davidmmm69]

How were you able to test the fuses under the front dash without having the door open. Would not the open door trigger the interior lights??

Just latch the doors while open!

 

[Tomr362]

Dave, by latch do you mean lock the door. Will that shut off interior lights to all me to do a ohm meter parasitic battery drain test on the negative side of the battery>. To to test have to disconnect negative cable ind run ohm meter between battery and cable. Have to have driver's door open access fuse box under driver's side fuse box. Battery going dead every 2 days have 56ma draw. should be around 2ma. Currently have to disconnect battery to be able to not drain battery--

Thanks. Tom

 

[davidmmm69]

Dave, by latch do you mean lock the door. Will that shut off interior lights to all me to do a ohm meter parasitic battery drain test on the negative side of the battery>. To to test have to disconnect negative cable ind run ohm meter between battery and cable. Have to have driver's door open access fuse box under driver's side fuse box. Battery going dead every 2 days have 56ma draw. should be around 2ma. Currently have to disconnect battery to be able to not drain battery--

Thanks. Tom

Take a screwdriver or something and physically push the latch on the side of the door to trick the doors into thinking they are closed

 

[davidmmm69]

Dave, by latch do you mean lock the door. Will that shut off interior lights to all me to do a ohm meter parasitic battery drain test on the negative side of the battery>. To to test have to disconnect negative cable ind run ohm meter between battery and cable. Have to have driver's door open access fuse box under driver's side fuse box. Battery going dead every 2 days have 56ma draw. should be around 2ma. Currently have to disconnect battery to be able to not drain battery--

Thanks. Tom

I love watching Ivan from pinehollowdiagnostics on YouTube. He's the expert on this

 

[Tomr362]

Thanks for the advice. Once weather gets better will have to find (hopefully) the source of the battery drain.