2010 4.0L won't shift out of park

[MSRehrig76]

Hi All,

We just bought a 2010 Ford Explorer Limited and it occasionally has trouble shifting out of park. I replaced the shift interlock solenoid circuit board, but thinking I might have to replace the solenoid itself. With the center console cover removed I can manually move the solenoid and shift out of park just fine, so not an issue with the transmission. Do I need to purchase the solenoid from a dealership? COuld it be something else?

Thanks!

-Mike

 

[imp]

Hi All,

We just bought a 2010 Ford Explorer Limited and it occasionally has trouble shifting out of park. I replaced the shift interlock solenoid circuit board, but thinking I might have to replace the solenoid itself. With the center console cover removed I can manually move the solenoid and shift out of park just fine, so not an issue with the transmission. Do I need to purchase the solenoid from a dealership? COuld it be something else?

Thanks!

-Mike

The shift interlock mechanism is a very flimsy design, and after repairing it to working status several times, I used 3-M Trim Cement to permanently glue the mechanism in the released position.

Doing this allows shifting out of Park at any time, removing the anti-theft feature of locked in Park. The engine will still only start in Park or Neutral positions.

 

[Littleant]

On my 2010 Mountaineer it was the brake light switch. Would not come out of park and no brake lights. Mine is the 4.0 not sure there the same.

 

[Critical Mass]

Hi All,

We just bought a 2010 Ford Explorer Limited and it occasionally has trouble shifting out of park. I replaced the shift interlock solenoid circuit board, but thinking I might have to replace the solenoid itself. With the center console cover removed I can manually move the solenoid and shift out of park just fine, so not an issue with the transmission. Do I need to purchase the solenoid from a dealership? COuld it be something else?

Thanks!

-Mike

Hey Mike,
I am having the same issue with my 2010 Ford Explorer. I found that the shifting out of park issue is mostly because of the Brake switch that is located just above where you put your foot on the brake. When you press on the brake you release this button which is suppose to send a signal to the shift 'solenoid' that pushes the plastic piece that keeps that button from being pushed when you don't have your foot on the brake. I have ordered another switch to see if that works. I'll try to update if it does the trick. If I lightly tap the break over and over, my switch works intermittently: I know this because I can hear the 'solenoid' clicking audibly when it works (also visualized it when I took the middle console cover off. Hope that helps.

Here's the switch I am talking about(you can purchase it almost anywhere you can get parts-oreillyauto is just for reference/visualization:

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/standard-ignition/lighting---electrical/switches/body-switches/brake-light-switch/dfddeeb8e8f2/standard-ignition-4-terminal-switch/std0/sls510/v/a/92780/automotive-suv-2010-ford-explorer?pos=0

My second issue is that the key sometimes gets won't come out of the ignition, which is because the shifter pin is now loose and I haven't been able to find a permeant solution for that one yet: I just keep pushing it back in place then it works just fine.

Good luck and cheers!
Tom

 

[Todd5050]

I too have this issue on my 06 Explorer for many years (bought it new). I have replaced the circuit board and it worked for a while and now its back to not shifting out of park unless I release the catch myself thru the hatch. We call it our antitheft device. I am so used to using 2 hands to shift it out of park, I don't even notice I am doing it anymore.

 

[Littleant]

Hey Mike,
I am having the same issue with my 2010 Ford Explorer. I found that the shifting out of park issue is mostly because of the Brake switch that is located just above where you put your foot on the brake. When you press on the brake you release this button which is suppose to send a signal to the shift 'solenoid' that pushes the plastic piece that keeps that button from being pushed when you don't have your foot on the brake. I have ordered another switch to see if that works. I'll try to update if it does the trick. If I lightly tap the break over and over, my switch works intermittently: I know this because I can hear the 'solenoid' clicking audibly when it works (also visualized it when I took the middle console cover off. Hope that helps.

Here's the switch I am talking about(you can purchase it almost anywhere you can get parts-oreillyauto is just for reference/visualization:

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/standard-ignition/lighting---electrical/switches/body-switches/brake-light-switch/dfddeeb8e8f2/standard-ignition-4-terminal-switch/std0/sls510/v/a/92780/automotive-suv-2010-ford-explorer?pos=0

My second issue is that the key sometimes gets won't come out of the ignition, which is because the shifter pin is now loose and I haven't been able to find a permeant solution for that one yet: I just keep pushing it back in place then it works just fine.

Good luck and cheers!
Tom

Agree. Same issue with my 2010 Mountaineer. I did not have brake lights and shifter would not come out of park.

 

[Willy92]

Hi All,

We just bought a 2010 Ford Explorer Limited and it occasionally has trouble shifting out of park. I replaced the shift interlock solenoid circuit board, but thinking I might have to replace the solenoid itself. With the center console cover removed I can manually move the solenoid and shift out of park just fine, so not an issue with the transmission. Do I need to purchase the solenoid from a dealership? COuld it be something else?

Thanks!

-Mike

To my knowledge you cannot purchase the solenoid separately. You will have to buy the complete shifter assembly. I just replaced mine - 2010 EB 4.0L.
You can buy from a third party, but I bought from the dealership $145.19

Description: Lever - Gear Shift
Part Number: 9L2Z 7210 BB

I had already replaced the shift interlock solenoid circuit board once, plus I also had the bigger problem of not being able to remove the key from the ignition switch. Like the interlock problem, it can be manipulated manually with the console cover removed, but who wants to do that forever?

 

[Critical Mass]

Hey Mike,
I am having the same issue with my 2010 Ford Explorer. I found that the shifting out of park issue is mostly because of the Brake switch that is located just above where you put your foot on the brake. When you press on the brake you release this button which is suppose to send a signal to the shift 'solenoid' that pushes the plastic piece that keeps that button from being pushed when you don't have your foot on the brake. I have ordered another switch to see if that works. I'll try to update if it does the trick. If I lightly tap the break over and over, my switch works intermittently: I know this because I can hear the 'solenoid' clicking audibly when it works (also visualized it when I took the middle console cover off. Hope that helps.

Here's the switch I am talking about(you can purchase it almost anywhere you can get parts-oreillyauto is just for reference/visualization:

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/standard-ignition/lighting---electrical/switches/body-switches/brake-light-switch/dfddeeb8e8f2/standard-ignition-4-terminal-switch/std0/sls510/v/a/92780/automotive-suv-2010-ford-explorer?pos=0

My second issue is that the key sometimes gets won't come out of the ignition, which is because the shifter pin is now loose and I haven't been able to find a permeant solution for that one yet: I just keep pushing it back in place then it works just fine.

Good luck and cheers!
Tom

UPDATE:
I purchased the above switch. Did not need it. I ended up doing a potentially temporary fix = I superglued the shiftpin so it didn't move out of position/fall out. It has been over a week and I haven't had any of the shifter button getting stuck while trying to shift out of park or the key getting stuck in the ignition.

It seems that a loose shifter pin will cause both issues. I'd start with the Shifter pin which it looks like you need to buy a whole unit, so thats why I opted for superglue on the pin. Hope that helps! Cheers!

Tom