2010 Explorer EB 4x2 4.0L Transmission Fluid Change

[Havfun]

I have a 2010 Explorer EB, 2WD with 4.0L V6. I think this means it has the 5r55s transmission. I'm coming up on 150k miles which the manual shows is time for a Transmission Fluid Change. I'm looking for instructions or a good video but the best info I've found was a video for the V8 which has a different tranny. Can someone provide a link or instructions for my car?

 

[Littleant]

This Google search will show videos. 5r55s transmission fluid change - Google Search

 

[Havfun]

Thanks Littleant. Everything that is coming out of my searches talks about draining and refilling only the pan and some include changing the filter also. It seems a little curious that there is no discussion about replacing all the fluid. I think this is referred to as a complete flush which of course involves a few more steps. My inclination is to do the complete flush because the pan drain and fill leaves more than half of the old fluid behind. Is this not recommended or needed on the 5R55S for some reason? Any comments about a complete fluid replacement vs only the pan drain and fill??

 

[Littleant]

Havfun.I am not a fan of flushing. at 150,000 there is a risk of diss lodging sedement. 150,000 is way to long for the 5r55s trans. Here is what I did. At 55,000 miles I did a pan drop and filter change. At 60,000 miles I just did a fluid change. At 65,000 miles I did another fluid change. A pan drop and filter change on average is 5 qt. Just a fluid change and no pan drop on average is 4 qt. I use this procedure on my 2010 mountaineer with 71,000 miles. I purchase a case of motorcraft mercon V from amazon. DO NOT USE ANY OTHER FLUID OTHER THEN MOTORCRAFT MERCON V Please do not do the flush with your mileage. You can Google 5r55s issues after transmission flush.

 

[Havfun]

Havfun.I am not a fan of flushing. at 150,000 there is a risk of diss lodging sedement. 150,000 is way to long for the 5r55s trans. Here is what I did. At 55,000 miles I did a pan drop and filter change. At 60,000 miles I just did a fluid change. At 65,000 miles I did another fluid change. A pan drop and filter change on average is 5 qt. Just a fluid change and no pan drop on average is 4 qt. I use this procedure on my 2010 mountaineer with 71,000 miles. I purchase a case of motorcraft mercon V from amazon. DO NOT USE ANY OTHER FLUID OTHER THEN MOTORCRAFT MERCON V Please do not do the flush with your mileage. You can Google 5r55s issues after transmission flush.

I kind of like that idea because it’s a little easier. I’m not sure yet what’s involved to tap into the cooling lines on this car which is needed for a flush. Doing the three fluid changes that you did leaves about 28% old fluid in the trans if my calculation is right. Is that what makes it safer or is it because it was done gradually over time?
Also, this car has a tow package that includes an auxiliary cooler. I don’t tow though. As a result, tranny temps are very well controlled typically 160 to 180 deg F with the kind of driving we do. Does this make the flush less risky or is the issue with sediment still the same?

 

[Havfun]

One other thing, I spoke to the local dealer and explained the high miles. He recommended their usual machine based flush (no pan drop) but claims the machine gets all the old fluid out. He wasn’t concerned about flush risks with high miles. The cost with Mercon V is $179- which is tempting. I gather his procedure is just as risky as any flush because of what you mentioned in post #4? Comments?

 

[gdgiordano]

One other thing, I spoke to the local dealer and explained the high miles. He recommended their usual machine based flush (no pan drop) but claims the machine gets all the old fluid out. He wasn’t concerned about flush risks with high miles. The cost with Mercon V is $179- which is tempting. I gather his procedure is just as risky as any flush because of what you mentioned in post #4? Comments?

I’ve been told their machine puts fluid in at the same rate it comes out witch is also the same speed as what the pump circulates it at. In theory the level never changes and it doesn’t move in an unusual way. Not sure how that method would dislodge anything but I’m no expert. I would listen to the other guys

 

[Littleant]

Havfun Are you having any issues with your transmission?? The reason I did multiple drains is there is no drain on the converter. This is also easy on the trans. You also get to see what is in the pan. Clean the magnet. The filter will be changed when you drop the pan. I did auto repair for many years now retited. Wish more folks would chime in on the flush. I am really surprised that the dealer recommend a flush. Most would not with the high mileage. If you have a dedicated trans shop or a highly regarded repair shop ask them. But at the end of the day it will be your decision to make. Amazon has the correct Minecraft filter.

 

[Havfun]

Havfun Are you having any issues with your transmission?? The reason I did multiple drains is there is no drain on the converter. This is also easy on the trans. You also get to see what is in the pan. Clean the magnet. The filter will be changed when you drop the pan. I did auto repair for many years now retited. Wish more folks would chime in on the flush. I am really surprised that the dealer recommend a flush. Most would not with the high mileage. If you have a dedicated trans shop or a highly regarded repair shop ask them. But at the end of the day it will be your decision to make. Amazon has the correct Minecraft filter.

Not having any issues with the transmission. Feels like the day I bought it. Its got 138k miles on it and never been touched. The manual says the first maintenance for normal driving is 150k mi but nobody accept Ford Inc agrees with that. I called yet another dealer today who said I should have changed it at 60k and 120k and suggested because of the high miles that I never touch it at this point! Opinions are all over the map on this and even the dealers don’t agree! It’s curious though since I didn’t find any videos or instructions on the web for getting the stuff out of the torque converter, just for the pan drain, refill and filter. I think the most common recommendation is the drain and refill like Littleant suggested. With my two other cars all I’ve done is the DIY complete flush since I’ve never wanted to leave any old fluid behind. I may change my thinking on this one.
Yes, I was planning to drop the pan and change the filter.
PS: Yes, I saw the Motorcraft Mercon V on amazon. This is what I plan to buy. Price is right too.

 

[Littleant]

Havfun I believe you are making the right decision. If you buy the case on Amazon you will you will be able to do 2 fluid changes. Link for the filter. This is the best filter motorcraft/ filtran. This is not a screen but original factory install filter. If you do another fluid drain in 1-5,000 miles or sooner just drain the fluid. Pan and filter 5 Quarts. Just fluid 4 Quarts. Watch the videos. You will also need the adaptor. If your drain plug is rusted purchase a new one. Glade to here you are not having issues. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C5DL54/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Havfun]

Thanks, Littleant. I just added that filter to my Amazon cart. I’m planning on doing the same three drain and refills you described with one variant. I was planning on dropping the pan for the 2nd drain/refill, not the first. My theory on this is if sediment and other junk is dislodged from the detergents in the new fluid, I don’t want it to clog up the new filter. So, if I drive it for a few thousand miles after the first change, the junk will end up in the old filter and then I’ll drop the pan for the second drain. Any thoughts on that approach? If all goes well, by the end of the 3rd drain I’ll be left with 28% old fluid in the system. If all that works fine with no problems, then I can probably do a complete DIY flush about 50k miles later since the old sediment should be cleaned out by then. That’s my present thinking. Sound OK?
Also, here's the link to the fluid on Amazon but with 5-quarts, I think its only good for one drain/fill:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NU67V8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

 

[Tech By Trade]

I do it annually, as I tow a trailer all summer. Usually after we put the trailer away for the fall. I did quit changing the filter annually though, as the last time I did it, the magnet was clean and so was the filter I took out. The last time I just pulled the plug and topped it back up with my princess auto suction gun.

 

[Littleant]

Havfun excellent idea. Makes sense. I also purchased the jug. Then later I purchased by the case. One other thing. When you remove the filter make sure the two Orings from from the old filter are not still in the valve body. Some times they Do not come off with the filter. Guess that's it.

 

[Havfun]

Havfun excellent idea. Makes sense. I also purchased the jug. Then later I purchased by the case. One other thing. When you remove the filter make sure the two Orings from from the old filter are not still in the valve body. Some times they Do not come off with the filter. Guess that's it.

Got it, Thanks!

 

[BootyDo]

Not to threadjack here, but you guys doing it yourself, when do you stop pumping new fluid? From what I've seen, you're supposed to have the car in neutral with the tranny fluid warmed up. Is there another option?

 

[Littleant]

BootyDo before you can start the engine you need to get fluid into the trans pan. If you do just a fluid change without droping the pan you can add 3 quarts of fluid. With a pan drop you can add 4 quarts. Start the engine with the vehicle level. Let run for 10-15 min. Trans pan warm to the touch. Run through gears. The fluid should drip out. If it does not add more fluid. If it runs out in a stream let it run until it drips.

 

[BootyDo]

Thanks Ant! I thought the capacity was like 7.5qt with a pan/filter drop. I'm literally in the middle of doing it now and trying to catch/measure all the fluid.

Two more things: The stupid O ring. Mine stayed in. No biggie, right? Well it's not coming out as one piece. When I tried using needle nose pliers, it just tore and it lodged in what I suspect are threads. I have those "dental" pick tools and am painfully scraping the rubber, but is there an interior rubber piece I'm not messing up? Like a mating piece to the O ring from the filter.

And finally, when you say to let the thing run to temp, are you sealing it with the drain plug or leaving it exposed? I was under the impression it needs pressure or something.

Might be over my head here and definitely at the point of no return.

EDIT: Should add I have the 6r60 tranny.

 

[Littleant]

Your new filter should have the o rings. You can pop them out wit a screw driver. You can put the little plug back in let it warm up run through gears. Put in neutral engine running remove the little plug. If no fluid runs out add more. Clear line works best you can see the fluid. Those O rings should pop out easy. 6r60 tranny that will take more fluid. Start with 6

 

[Havfun]

Back again after completing the work. I decided to do the complete flush. That is a DIY flush. No machines and no pressure except what is provided by the tranny itself. I was going to do only a drain and fill but when I dropped the pan it looked very clean and the fluid also looked good to my eye. It was darker than the new fluid but still was plainly red in color. To me it smelled like oil, no burnt odor but I took it to the local dealer and one of the service managers claimed it was slightly burnt and recommended I do a complete flush but cautioned against using any pressure. His claim was the pressure that certain machines apply is what can cause troubles and he assured I would have no problem pumping the old fluid out using the pressure from the transmission. As Littleant suggested, I used Motorcraft Mercon V and a new Motorcraft filter. Here are three pictures of the pan after I drained and pulled it:
Transmission Pan
The little specs seen in the 2nd and third pictures are not hard material. When touched, they just become dust like the stuff on and around the magnate.

The auxiliary cooler which is part of the tow package appears to be plumbed in after the cooler in the radiator which I think is conventional plumbing. Here is a picture showing the cooler lines at the passenger side of the radiator:
Transmission Cooler lines
I cut the hose leading from the radiator to the auxiliary cooler and drained fluid from this point while adding it to the pan. Seventeen quarts of new fluid were used in total. Some dilution calculations suggest that old fluid remaining in the transmission is 6.6% which I think is acceptable.

Question:
One thing surprised me. When I began draining fluid thru the cut hose that connects to the output side of the radiator, both sides of the cut hose had fluid exiting rapidly! This does not make sense as fluid should flow in one direction leading to the auxiliary cooler. Once the hose is cut, the side leading to the aux cooler is in the return path back to the transmission and this should not be pressurized. That’s not the way it worked though. Both sides of the cut hose were pressurized by the transmission. Maybe I don’t understand how the auxiliary cooler is plumbed into the system and to be clear I cannot see the hose barbs of the aux cooler as they are well hidden. I’ve done this on two other transmissions and never experienced this dilemma. Does anyone understand why both sides of the cut hose were pressurized? I would love to know what happened here so please help if you can.
Was it a success? Yes, it seems so. After the 17 quarts of new fluid were added, the fluid exiting the radiator looked like new fluid which is expected. The tranny works fine (always has) and I’ve put about 150 miles on it after the work was done. Just need to understand why I got fluid coming out of both sides of the cut hose lest I remain forever mystified!

 

[Tech By Trade]

That's how its supposed to work. The system is fully pressurized, and when you cut the line the fluid will flow from both directions. The difference is there is less pressure coming from one side, and it circulates against the lower pressure. You could have just used a quick connect tool and disconnected the line from the cooler on the rad. It would have saved another fitting, but either way is fine.