2010 Ford Explorer Battery Drain

[FordExplorer10]

My fiancé battery drains slowly. If it is left alone for 3 days it won’t have enough power to start the vehicle. If it doesn’t run for 4 days it’s completely dead. The battery has been tested. If I leave it disconnected from the explorer for three days it’s fine. I have checked the alternator for back draw current. I have checked for a parasitic draw. It pulls .16 constantly. The only fuse that is drawing power is #2 fuse which is for microcontroller processor/power. It controls the door locks/tire pressure sensor/and I believe the parking brake indicator. I currently have that fuse pulled and going to see if it makes any difference after a few days. Does anyone have any other suggestions? I’ve been at this for over a month. If my fiancé drives it everyday it’s fine or every other day. Just if it sits it dies after a few days. No check engine light or codes either.

 

[94Eddie]

How old is the battery? Did you test every fuse for current draw?

 

[FordExplorer10]

How old is the battery? Did you test every fuse for current draw?

New battery since December of last year and also that fuse is the only one when removed it made the current drop from .16 to .02 draw. Then soon as you put it back in it goes back to .16

 

[94Eddie]

If the battery is good then there has to be a larger current draw somewhere. How are you determining the current draw? I would suggest testing every fuse while in its slot. Electrical problems can be quirky and this is how shops check for current drain problems.

 

[FordExplorer10]

I’m testing by disconnecting the negative battery terminal and connecting my meter in the middle between the terminal and the post of the battery. Then pulling one fuse at a time. If it says I am only drawing .16. If I test each fuse will it show anything running when it says with my meter I am only pulling .16?

 

[94Eddie]

I am not an electrical engineer but it might be a good idea to test the fuses in their typical operating conditions. This would be having all circuits connected as they are when the problem occurs. The wiring in modern vehicles are extremely complicated and interference from one circuit to another might be occurring as a result. Also, have you checked for trouble codes?

 

[FordExplorer10]

Are you meaning for check engine codes? None are coming up

 

[FordExplorer10]

Just an update. Even with #2 fuse pulled for two days the battery was almost down to 11.5 amps. So there still another drain. I will test more of the fuses tomorrow when I am off work. Just seems like that fuse is for normal function.

 

[muneca1023]

My fiancé battery drains slowly. If it is left alone for 3 days it won’t have enough power to start the vehicle. If it doesn’t run for 4 days it’s completely dead. The battery has been tested. If I leave it disconnected from the explorer for three days it’s fine. I have checked the alternator for back draw current. I have checked for a parasitic draw. It pulls .16 constantly. The only fuse that is drawing power is #2 fuse which is for microcontroller processor/power. It controls the door locks/tire pressure sensor/and I believe the parking brake indicator. I currently have that fuse pulled and going to see if it makes any difference after a few days. Does anyone have any other suggestions? I’ve been at this for over a month. If my fiancé drives it everyday it’s fine or every other day. Just if it sits it dies after a few days. No check engine light or codes either.

I’m going through the same problem with my Ford Explorer 2010

 

[Bazz270]

Fuse #2 it is a common mistake on battery drain diagnosis. SJB microprocessor will stay on until several conditions will be performed (like a closed doors for 30 minutes etc.).

The most common reason for the parasitic drains is the aftermarket systems.

 

[bdmaash]

Fuse #2 it is a common mistake on battery drain diagnosis. SJB microprocessor will stay on until several conditions will be performed (like a closed doors for 30 minutes etc.).

The most common reason for the parasitic drains is the aftermarket systems.

Best to buy a DC current clamp meter (clamped on ground wire on battery - this will cover all current draws) , I picked one up on amazon with a bluetooth link to phone (display on phone also)

simulate doors closed and locked (close latches and leave door, hood open to access fuses), let truck go to sleep, the see what the current draw is
if it is more than 0.05A (not sure what quiescent current is on this truck is) start pulling fuses one at a time to see what fixes it
start with aftermarket stuff if any: alarm/stereo/phone chargers.....

 

[Tsani]

My fiancé battery drains slowly. If it is left alone for 3 days it won’t have enough power to start the vehicle. If it doesn’t run for 4 days it’s completely dead. The battery has been tested. If I leave it disconnected from the explorer for three days it’s fine. I have checked the alternator for back draw current. I have checked for a parasitic draw. It pulls .16 constantly. The only fuse that is drawing power is #2 fuse which is for microcontroller processor/power. It controls the door locks/tire pressure sensor/and I believe the parking brake indicator. I currently have that fuse pulled and going to see if it makes any difference after a few days. Does anyone have any other suggestions? I’ve been at this for over a month. If my fiancé drives it everyday it’s fine or every other day. Just if it sits it dies after a few days. No check engine light or codes either.

Do you have a keyless entry key pad on the drivers door? They are prone to corrosion damage due to water leaking in. This was the problem for mine. I found it after noticing the key pad randomly lighting up while talking to a neighbor at night.

 

[KG NB]

I had this problem and discovered it was caused by leaving my dash cam plugged in to the 12 volt charging port. It stays on even when the ignition is off and runs the battery down slowly. In the summer it’s not noticeable but in cold nights it killed my battery.

 

[S Cory]

My fiancé battery drains slowly. If it is left alone for 3 days it won’t have enough power to start the vehicle. If it doesn’t run for 4 days it’s completely dead. The battery has been tested. If I leave it disconnected from the explorer for three days it’s fine. I have checked the alternator for back draw current. I have checked for a parasitic draw. It pulls .16 constantly. The only fuse that is drawing power is #2 fuse which is for microcontroller processor/power. It controls the door locks/tire pressure sensor/and I believe the parking brake indicator. I currently have that fuse pulled and going to see if it makes any difference after a few days. Does anyone have any other suggestions? I’ve been at this for over a month. If my fiancé drives it everyday it’s fine or every other day. Just if it sits it dies after a few days. No check engine light or codes either.

have you checked all fuses or changed all fuses. made sure EVERYTHING is off? what year is it? checked the wiring to the in dash fuse box? Heard any sizzling from the in dash fuse box (that's where my trouble began and it took couple years but it eventually DIED. but still dont know what caused it to start acting weird). well that's all i have on that subject. hope it helps

 

[Seabee75]

My fiancé battery drains slowly. If it is left alone for 3 days it won’t have enough power to start the vehicle. If it doesn’t run for 4 days it’s completely dead. The battery has been tested. If I leave it disconnected from the explorer for three days it’s fine. I have checked the alternator for back draw current. I have checked for a parasitic draw. It pulls .16 constantly. The only fuse that is drawing power is #2 fuse which is for microcontroller processor/power. It controls the door locks/tire pressure sensor/and I believe the parking brake indicator. I currently have that fuse pulled and going to see if it makes any difference after a few days. Does anyone have any other suggestions? I’ve been at this for over a month. If my fiancé drives it everyday it’s fine or every other day. Just if it sits it dies after a few days. No check engine light or codes either.

My 2017 does the same thing. My tester tells me the lift gate module, a module behind display in the center of dash and the module down behind glove box bad. Over a grand in processor modules. If I hire someone to change more than a grand. Righ now parked. Going to start with the tail gate, 2 one behind dash and 3 one in the center of dash. I have a 2017 F 150 and tester says one behind center dash bad also but I am having no known problems, maybe due to using daily.

 

[Greggeorge]

My fiancé battery drains slowly. If it is left alone for 3 days it won’t have enough power to start the vehicle. If it doesn’t run for 4 days it’s completely dead. The battery has been tested. If I leave it disconnected from the explorer for three days it’s fine. I have checked the alternator for back draw current. I have checked for a parasitic draw. It pulls .16 constantly. The only fuse that is drawing power is #2 fuse which is for microcontroller processor/power. It controls the door locks/tire pressure sensor/and I believe the parking brake indicator. I currently have that fuse pulled and going to see if it makes any difference after a few days. Does anyone have any other suggestions? I’ve been at this for over a month. If my fiancé drives it everyday it’s fine or every other day. Just if it sits it dies after a few days. No check engine light or codes either.

Had the same problem with a reciever hitch ford logo light plugged into the 4way flat trailer plug. Unplugged it no more drain.
If you have nothing hooked up your drain is elsewhere. Hook up meter to battery and look for current draw. Make sure everything is off with doors closed. If you see current drain it's time to start pulling fuses till you find it. Leave that fuse out and see if you drain go's aways. If so, then that circuit is the one with the problem.

 

[DadNotDude]

My fiancé battery drains slowly. If it is left alone for 3 days it won’t have enough power to start the vehicle. If it doesn’t run for 4 days it’s completely dead. The battery has been tested. If I leave it disconnected from the explorer for three days it’s fine. I have checked the alternator for back draw current. I have checked for a parasitic draw. It pulls .16 constantly. The only fuse that is drawing power is #2 fuse which is for microcontroller processor/power. It controls the door locks/tire pressure sensor/and I believe the parking brake indicator. I currently have that fuse pulled and going to see if it makes any difference after a few days. Does anyone have any other suggestions? I’ve been at this for over a month. If my fiancé drives it everyday it’s fine or every other day. Just if it sits it dies after a few days. No check engine light or codes either.

Mine was a bad starter solenoid. It wouldn't fully unlatch and kept the circuit closed, draining the battery.

 

[Seabee75]

My fiancé battery drains slowly. If it is left alone for 3 days it won’t have enough power to start the vehicle. If it doesn’t run for 4 days it’s completely dead. The battery has been tested. If I leave it disconnected from the explorer for three days it’s fine. I have checked the alternator for back draw current. I have checked for a parasitic draw. It pulls .16 constantly. The only fuse that is drawing power is #2 fuse which is for microcontroller processor/power. It controls the door locks/tire pressure sensor/and I believe the parking brake indicator. I currently have that fuse pulled and going to see if it makes any difference after a few days. Does anyone have any other suggestions? I’ve been at this for over a month. If my fiancé drives it everyday it’s fine or every other day. Just if it sits it dies after a few days. No check engine light or codes either.

I have same problem. You will need a diagnostic check. I have 3 modules reporting bad.

 

[1.8TTony]

You also need to pull power relays to check parasitic draw.

Simply pulling fuses only determines if a fused component is drawing power.

Some components require not only a fuse to operate properly, but also a power relay. Fused power wire sends voltage current to power relays to activate the relays. When the fused power wire stops sending power, the relay "turns off". It's possible that a power relay is stuck in the "on" position.

Electrical gremlins are the worst to try to track down. A person could spend days trying to locate the problem and never make any progress.

Sometimes it's better to bite the bullet, spend $150 and pay for a professional diagnostic scan.