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2010 Sport Trac Transmission Range Sensor Install


kscessnadriver

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Long story short, I've got a no-crank/no-start condition on my 2010. I've know for a while that I've had a CEL on for the trans range sensor, and have had the part laying around for months. Well, now I figure that it's a good time to replace it, considering it doesn't run otherwise.

I'm attempting to remove the old sensor, and I'm able to get the 8mm bolts out that physically hold the sensor to the transmission, but I'm unable to remove the actual selector arm, which would allow me to slide the sensor out. It's a 21mm nut, that holds the lever onto the shaft, and no matter what I've tried it doesn't budge (lots of rust). Ideas on how to get it loose? Or what route to go down?
 

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donalds

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Hold the selector arm with channellocks .....so you don't damage inside your transmission.....and use a box wrench to remove the nut
 


kscessnadriver

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Hold the selector arm with channellocks .....so you don't damage inside your transmission.....and use a box wrench to remove the nut
Tried that, nothing. The rust is bad. I've gone at it with an electric impact even, simply not coming off. Working on the ground doesn't make it any easier, but I've spent hours trying to break this thing free, and nothing works. I've even put multiple rounds of penetrating oil on it.
 


donalds

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I'd post this in the transmission section of the forum

 


kscessnadriver

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I'd post this in the transmission section of the forum

Thanks, I'm afraid I'll end up over there shortly. Or having it towed to a shop.
 


kscessnadriver

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Ended up using a small brass wheel to get the rust off, and eventually I was able to work the nut free. Got it all replaced, but still no crank/no start, and no matter what gear I select it in, it's remaining in neutral, so I've got some bigger issues.
 


bdmaash

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Ended up using a small brass wheel to get the rust off, and eventually I was able to work the nut free. Got it all replaced, but still no crank/no start, and no matter what gear I select it in, it's remaining in neutral, so I've got some bigger issues.
did you align the selector properly - check to see if reverse lights come on when placed in reverse. There is an alignment tool required when re-installing the selector.
 


JK080

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Check the power wire at the solenoid on the starter for voltage when you turn the key to start, if you have voltage you may just have a bad starter.
 


kscessnadriver

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did you align the selector properly - check to see if reverse lights come on when placed in reverse. There is an alignment tool required when re-installing the selector.
They do not, so I assume the alignment isn't correct, I'll have to look into that. That said, even if the range sensor is improperly installed, the shifter should still shift the transmission, would it not?
 


kscessnadriver

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Check the power wire at the solenoid on the starter for voltage when you turn the key to start, if you have voltage you may just have a bad starter.
I'll also have to look at this, but the starter was replaced no more than 2 years ago, I'd like to think it isn't the case. I had no signs of the starter going bad prior to this.
 


bdmaash

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physically/theoretically the transmission should go int gears with the cable.
I do not know much about this transmission, but it probably looks at a bunch of things before shifting.
I do know it's not a direct link - have shifted into reverse from neutral whilst coasting to a stop and it will not go into reverse until almost fully stopped.
I would think if you took off the range selector and manipulated it you should be able to fake it into gears.

I also have killed the link to the transmission messing with programming, and then the transmission goes into a limp mode where it only engages neutral, reverse and maybe third gears only - required PCM/TCM reprogram to fix. (irrelevant info - but illustrates that it is not a brainless mechanical transmission)

So, my assumption is there is a mechanical input (the linkage), when the transmission performs the operation it is sensed by the range selector to tell the PCM (computer) what gear it is in. Therefore if you can make the range selector think it is in park or neutral when off the transmission - it should start. ....if the transmission is in gear whilst trying to start it will move.

I would also check the starter thing mentioned also - could be a bad relay that controls the starter solenoid (the solenoid is also a relay but switches 100s of amps)

edit:
Fuse 9 in SJB (2A) SJB(Smart Junction Box) located under dash around park brake release

Fuse 11 under hood (30A)
Fuse 24 (10A) PCM
Fuse 27 (20A) TCM 6 speed
Fuse 38 (15A) 5 speed transmission
fuse 39 (15A) PCM power
relay 55A PCM relay
relay 56B Starter relay

link above to grab your owners manual - to look up correct fuses/location for your year truck
 
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kscessnadriver

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Thanks for the ideas, I just had time to work on it. I did manage to get back underneath and get the range sensor aligned properly, using a youtube technique I found. Now, at least when I use a wrench to shift the transmission while under the truck, I can get it to turn the backup lights on while its in reverse.

And I'm back to being able to get a relay to at least click about every 3 seconds while attempting a start. So I got somehwere. I do know that I'm going to have to check the adjustment on the shifter cable, because its totally out of whack now, but I assume I'll be able to figure that out.

Very well could be the starter, I put a cheapy, ebay starter in the truck a little over 2 years ago.
 


kscessnadriver

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Just to come back, I did go ahead and put a new starter in (and broke a starter bolt, which is now the next replacement project). At least it cranks and starts now, but I've got something wrong on the shift cable/range sensor, because it starts in gear. Good times to be had on this project, should have just had it towed to a repair shop.

I know the shift cable is broke, not sure if that's a project I want to attempt to do myself.
 


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