2012 Explorer Cranks but hesitates Starting

[bulldogcountry1]

For the last 6 months or so, my 2012 V6 Limited intermittently hesitates starting when cold. I put in a new battery about 4 months ago, but it always cranks strong. It even goes through periods when it starts immediately.

Lately, though, the starting hesitation has gotten worse. There are no error codes. General experience tells me it’s either fuel or spark, but no codes to work with is a little frustrating.

I’ve been reading about coils, fuel pumps, and fuel control modules, but I’m not sure where to start. Is there a way to test fuel pressure on a push button start?

 

[Davidm53]

My 2016 XLT had a no start issue few weeks ago.
Starter was strong each time 4-6 attempts.

Actually read the book that night, said to floor the pedal while cranking.
That did the trick, have not had the issue since.

One possibly could be the E-85 with the low temps from the previous week.
Refueled with higher octane, no issue since.

 

[bulldogcountry1]

I ended up swapping the fuel control module a couple months ago. I couldn't really tell a difference because the car had been starting fine with the mild temps here. The last couple weeks, we have had temps over 90 degrees, and that has had an effect on the car starting. The hotter it is, the longer it takes to start. It's only a couple seconds, but I feel like i need to make a move and trying to fix this before I get stranded.

Still no error codes to work with, so I guess I'm going to replace the fuel pump.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

if you prime the fuel pump a few times, does it help?

 

[peterk9]

I ended up swapping the fuel control module a couple months ago. I couldn't really tell a difference because the car had been starting fine with the mild temps here. The last couple weeks, we have had temps over 90 degrees, and that has had an effect on the car starting. The hotter it is, the longer it takes to start. It's only a couple seconds, but I feel like i need to make a move and trying to fix this before I get stranded.

Still no error codes to work with, so I guess I'm going to replace the fuel pump.

FYI, to replace the pump you will have to drop the fuel tank.

Peter

 

[Strangeleak]

Hey all, first post here. Don't mean to Hi-jack the thread. But I have the same issue with my wife's Explorer. I think I've narrowed it down to the Fuel Pump Driver Module in the C-Pillar. Gonna try and by-pass it today to see if it will fire up. I've got Code P00C6.

Does anyone know what tools are needed to access this module? I am a mechanic and all my tools are at work and I would prefer to bring just what I need instead of my entire "Pack-Out".

Thanks,

 

[peterk9]

Hey all, first post here. Don't mean to Hi-jack the thread. But I have the same issue with my wife's Explorer. I think I've narrowed it down to the Fuel Pump Driver Module in the C-Pillar. Gonna try and by-pass it today to see if it will fire up. I've got Code P00C6.

Does anyone know what tools are needed to access this module? I am a mechanic and all my tools are at work and I would prefer to bring just what I need instead of my entire "Pack-Out".

Thanks,

Welcome to the Forum.

Sorry, can't help you with this but perhaps other members can. Good luck and please report back.

Peter

 

[Strangeleak]

Welcome to the Forum.

Sorry, can't help you with this but perhaps other members can. Good luck and please report back.

Peter

Definitely will. I often look for videos/write-ups for things like this with tools-needed listed out.

 

[bulldogcountry1]

if you prime the fuel pump a few times, does it help?

Yes. It’s push button, and I had to look up how to do it, but priming for a couple seconds makes a difference. What does that tell me?

 

[Strangeleak]

Ok so I haven't completed the repair yet but.... I did narrow it down to the fuel pump. Which requires very little tools to drop the tank and replace.

For the Fuel Pump driver module. You only need a flat blade screwdriver to pop the C-Pillar panels loose, a 7mm socket and ratchet to remove the one screw securing the panel that covers the upper seat belt slider, and a 10mm to remove the module itself.

For the tank/fuel pump you'll need a jack and a couple jack stands. Put jack stands under the pinch welds below the rear doors close to the rear tires.Some spray lubricant to slide the rubber exhaust hangers off. Then let the exhaust hang from the flex pipe and push to the driver side. A 13mm with some extensions to remove the front tank strap bolts, dont need to remove the rear strap bolts, a flat screwdriver to remove harness connectors and maybe a pair of pliers to remove wiring harness clips. If the tank is full of fuel, use the jack to assist in lowering it. Once the tank is down and out from under the vehicle, you'll need a hammer and flat screwdriver to loosen the pump retaining ring and then unclip the 2 hoses that are attached to the pump inside the tank.

I hope this helps others and also hope I didn't forget anything.

 

[peterk9]

Or, you can cut a hole in the floor..........................

LPFP hanger assembly access for DW300c Fuel Pump install

So I was really dreading installing the fuel hanger that had installed the DW300c into. https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/installation-of-deatschworks-dw300c-fuel-pump.486828/ Reason being...I was dreading dropping the fuel tank as we don't have top access from within the vehicle...

www.explorerforum.com

Peter

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Yes. It’s push button, and I had to look up how to do it, but priming for a couple seconds makes a difference. What does that tell me?

the fuel pumps have an anti drainback like valve, so that fuel can flow to the injectors, but not go back to the tank. think of it as a one way window. however, it drains back in this case, and it wont hold pressure nicely. i would suggest replacing the pump+sender in this case probably.. lets see what others think! check pressure when you prime and see if it decreases

 

[bulldogcountry1]

I’m seeing the pump motor alone for around $50. The entire assembly is over $300. What are you gaining by changing the whole assembly, besides “while you are at it”?

 

[Fix4Dirt]

dang! 300?!?!?! nah, thats too much $$$. by changing the whole sender, you can make sure the fuel gauge is accurate (sometimes the float is off/fried). not sure if they still got em, btu on the 2nd gens at least, do change the sock at the end to keep the fuel clean. not sure where the drainback valve is on these newer ones though, if its in the sender assembly or the pump itself... never figured that one out, for the price i pay, for me its not much more just to do the whole pump+sender

 

[peterk9]

I’m seeing the pump motor alone for around $50. The entire assembly is over $300. What are you gaining by changing the whole assembly, besides “while you are at it”?

Fuel System Components for 2012 Ford Explorer | Auto Nation Ford White Bear Lake

parts.autonationfordwhitebearlake.com

Peter

 

[RedDen]

check purge valve, take it off from truck, valve is normally closed, so you should NOT be able to do a mouth-blow

 

[Retired firefighter]

My 2016 XLT had a no start issue few weeks ago.
Starter was strong each time 4-6 attempts.

Actually read the book that night, said to floor the pedal while cranking.
That did the trick, have not had the issue since.

One possibly could be the E-85 with the low temps from the previous week.
Refueled with higher octane, no issue since.

I just got my 2016 Explorer back today. ( It only has 64,000 miles on it) It went in because it cranked good, but wouldn’t start. Needless to say it started 3 days. Today it did not. They put it on the computer it showed I had mixed E85 and regular fuel which caused it to flood when the devise that tell it which fuel is used locked up. At first I doubted it was the cause. But after they reset the “kams “ it started right up. He showed me the test, and advised me not to use E 85, which is fine. It’s hard to find it anyway. Plus as you said it’s not good in cold weather, which here in Ohio is coming fast. It actually idling better than is has in a while . I filled it with 92 octane, 7 gallons, as it will bring up the octane when it mixes with the fuel in the tank.
im hoping this fixes it. I never had the starting problem until I added some E85. I’ll let you know how it does,and if it keeps starting now. By the way the problem started When we had the cold snap a few weeks ago.

 

[Retired firefighter]

As you can see my Explorer is in mint condition,

 

[peterk9]

oSwitching away from E85 you should also see a little improvement in your gas mileage although the cold weather could offset that.

Peter