2013 Explorer XLT Blues | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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2013 Explorer XLT Blues

CHEGS

New Member
Joined
April 1, 2019
Messages
4
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City, State
Hightstown, NJ
Year, Model & Trim Level
2013 Explorer XLT
JUST Picked Up a 13 XLT with 105k on it. Drives like a dream minus the engine light that pops up on the way home from the used car lot that’s a P0430 code.

Where the Hell are the O2 sensors and should I just do all?
 



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JUST Picked Up a 13 XLT with 105k on it. Drives like a dream minus the engine light that pops up on the way home from the used car lot that’s a P0430 code.

Where the Hell are the O2 sensors and should I just do all?

WELCOME TO THE FORUM!

I always recommend replacing them all at once, because if one goes out they are likely to nickel and dime you until you do, usually a week in between...lol.

But if your code calls out a specific one do that one because they aren't that cheap, especially if they are "heated" O2 Sensors.

O2 Sensors are on the exhaust, 4 of them on most vehicles:

Left and right side of the Exhaust, Bank1 and Bank 2. Bank 1 is usually the side of the engine that Cylinder 1 is on, and Bank 2 is the side where Cyl 2 is. (This is not a certainty, just a general rule)
2 of them before the Catalytic Converter (Upstream or "Sensor 1")
2 of them after(Downstream or "Sensor 2").

EXAMPLE: The Code will call them out as "Bank One Sensor 1" or "O2 Sensor B1S1"( Bank 1 Sensor 1). This means that the Upstream O2 sensor (Before the Cat) on Bank 1

All of this can be checked with a code reader that shows "Live Data" in the Global OBDII.

Be sure to look at your data as the car is running:

After a little warm up time, an Upstream O2 sensor should switch from low to high voltage rather quickly, while the Downstream O2 sensor will be slower to react, since it is measuring the exhaust affected by the Cat. Pull up the graphs in the live data and look for the oddball.


This will affect your Short Term Fuel Trim(STFT)and Long Term Fuel Trim(LTFT) numbers as well for Bank 1 and Bank 2, ,that can be another indicator of where the problem actually is. Fuel Trim is a representation of how the computer is metering the fuel to the engine using the opening and closing of the injectors. It can also be affected by vacuum leaks, etc...

STFT is what the engine is doing NOW. This should hover between 5% to -5%, give or take. A spike in either direction isn't necessarily an issue.
LTFT is the average setting that the Computer uses to tell whats happening and if there is a problem. This should be within 7% to -7% on most vehicles, but if it is past 10% to-10% on either bank that is where your issue is. Fuel Trim issues will usually set their own code, but this is another place to look. Fuel Metering is sometimes tricky to troubleshoot.

Another possibility is that your Catalytic Converter IS actually having issues. Again most computers will set a code specific to it, but look for Downstream O2 sensors reading lean, but not stuck at a certain point, and some stalling or other driveability issues.

So before you just go drop a couple Hundred dollars on O2 sensors just to have the problem persist, do your homework.

Good Luck!
 






JUST Picked Up a 13 XLT with 105k on it. Drives like a dream minus the engine light that pops up on the way home from the used car lot that’s a P0430 code.

Where the Hell are the O2 sensors and should I just do all?
Welcome to the Forum.:wave:
You may be interested in this thread; P0420 and P0430 Codes

Peter
 






JUST Picked Up a 13 XLT with 105k on it. Drives like a dream minus the engine light that pops up on the way home from the used car lot that’s a P0430 code.

Where the Hell are the O2 sensors and should I just do all?
Wait, wut?

Did you get any warranty? If so, take it back to dealer and ask them how they want to handle. If no, take it back to dealer anyway and tell them to fix the POS they sold you.
 












................tell them to fix the POS they sold you.
That's not a very nice way to talk to a new member who is obviously happy with the vehicle he just bought. It could have been handled much better IMO.

Peter
 






I appreciate the input, really though I purchased an “as is” product from a small used car lot and rolled the dice because of the Carfax record.
I’m not bashful with repairs, but in looking up the error code and without crawling underneath yet, was having a hard time finding a schematic with where the up and down stream sensors are, and am investigating if I should roll my sleeves up and “Git R Dun”...
 






WELCOME TO THE FORUM!

I always recommend replacing them all at once, because if one goes out they are likely to nickel and dime you until you do, usually a week in between...lol.

But if your code calls out a specific one do that one because they aren't that cheap, especially if they are "heated" O2 Sensors.

O2 Sensors are on the exhaust, 4 of them on most vehicles:

Left and right side of the Exhaust, Bank1 and Bank 2. Bank 1 is usually the side of the engine that Cylinder 1 is on, and Bank 2 is the side where Cyl 2 is. (This is not a certainty, just a general rule)
2 of them before the Catalytic Converter (Upstream or "Sensor 1")
2 of them after(Downstream or "Sensor 2").

EXAMPLE: The Code will call them out as "Bank One Sensor 1" or "O2 Sensor B1S1"( Bank 1 Sensor 1). This means that the Upstream O2 sensor (Before the Cat) on Bank 1

All of this can be checked with a code reader that shows "Live Data" in the Global OBDII.

Be sure to look at your data as the car is running:

After a little warm up time, an Upstream O2 sensor should switch from low to high voltage rather quickly, while the Downstream O2 sensor will be slower to react, since it is measuring the exhaust affected by the Cat. Pull up the graphs in the live data and look for the oddball.


This will affect your Short Term Fuel Trim(STFT)and Long Term Fuel Trim(LTFT) numbers as well for Bank 1 and Bank 2, ,that can be another indicator of where the problem actually is. Fuel Trim is a representation of how the computer is metering the fuel to the engine using the opening and closing of the injectors. It can also be affected by vacuum leaks, etc...

STFT is what the engine is doing NOW. This should hover between 5% to -5%, give or take. A spike in either direction isn't necessarily an issue.
LTFT is the average setting that the Computer uses to tell whats happening and if there is a problem. This should be within 7% to -7% on most vehicles, but if it is past 10% to-10% on either bank that is where your issue is. Fuel Trim issues will usually set their own code, but this is another place to look. Fuel Metering is sometimes tricky to troubleshoot.

Another possibility is that your Catalytic Converter IS actually having issues. Again most computers will set a code specific to it, but look for Downstream O2 sensors reading lean, but not stuck at a certain point, and some stalling or other driveability issues.

So before you just go drop a couple Hundred dollars on O2 sensors just to have the problem persist, do your homework.

Good Luck!


Thank You! Am investing in a decent code reader and gonna troubleshoot bits and pieces. Would love schematics or diagrams that are Explorer based if anyone know of a good resource!
 






Thank You! Am investing in a decent code reader and gonna troubleshoot bits and pieces. Would love schematics or diagrams that are Explorer based if anyone know of a good resource!

Haynes manual

Factorymanuals.com

Helmmanuals.com
 






As a last resort autozone.com has some of the schematics on their site. Under resources I believe. It’s been a while since I’ve been in there.
 






That's not a very nice way to talk to a new member who is obviously happy with the vehicle he just bought. It could have been handled much better IMO.

Peter
Wrong. Consumers need to educate themselves. How does one drive off a lot with problems? No test drive? No inspection? Shady dealer/BHPH lot? Either way, first step needs to be a visit to the dealer immediately to notify and ask them to step up. Consumers have protections, even if they buy goods "as is" and non-shady businesses should make an effort to work with their customers if/when issues arise. In some states, it is not legal for dealers to sell vehicles that do not pass inspection. If I am not mistaken, NJ has state inspections (I believe emissions and mechanical). It may be worth it for OP to spend a little time looking into this before beginning any repairs on his/her own.
 






I was referring to you calling his newly acquired vehicle a POS. Not that he shouldn't go back to the dealer and ask to have the issue rectified.

Peter
 






Thank You everyone for your points! Error has since “disappeared”, but all I got from here will help me greatly should it decide to come back! I’m a Jeeper in my heart, and part of a few forums in that community, so happy to share this one feels like home!!!!
 






I was referring to you calling his newly acquired vehicle a POS. Not that he shouldn't go back to the dealer and ask to have the issue rectified.

Peter

Toe-may-toe / Toe-mah-toe

My apologies if you took offense to the comment, but I meant it from a "tough love" perspective. Maybe you could begin explaining some of the other potential issues the OP may want to be prepared for...
 






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