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2013 interceptor utility brake issue

I’ll try and look tomorrow. I was told a bent knuckle can sometimes be hard to visually see . I’m wondering if the strut tower is moved due to previous accident. The pics I posted do show some cracked paint and some little bends

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I don't mean to be rude but when are you just going to buck up and take it to a professional who can properly assess it. All of this is just educated conjecture at this point. You have a pretty good idea of what is going on but you need someone with the right equipment and training to personally look at it.

If strut tower or something else is out of spec , what type of cost may be involved ? This vehicle has been to different machanics and none have noticed any visual problems . I have changed a buch of parts in hope that I would solve it but it didn’t. I’m guessing at this point , it needs to be put on a frame machine correct ? I’m not a mechanic and was hoping to get some insight into the problem . Can anyone give any ideas on what frame work will cost ? I was told it’s 500.00 just to hook up my vehicle to it

Repair prices are subjective and based on market, the shop and their appetite for more business. I think we've done all we can to help you at this point.

The end result is, there are body dimensions which need to be measured under-hood which can point to a problem. There are a series of measurements, mostly diagonal which can show movement of the front unit body. This is to indicate if everything is square and properly distanced. Four measurements check the strut tower locations, because I'm looking at the body dimensions image right now. The same is true for the undercar measurements, but there are only three total measurements for the front sub-frame.

this got out of hand with parts pretty quicklyo_O. Just curious but did you say the ABS brakes were applied when it was pulling hard? If not did you ever run the vehicle hard and check the temperature with a "laser" non contact thermometer on the hottest part of the rotor on all 4 corners?

Yup all rotors seemed the same or very close temp . Everything is basically new and I’ve had to learn to live with this. Has been to several MechAnics including ford dealership many times . This dealer in Florida obviously sold me something with a very serious problem and unfortunately I was the one who got screwed . Not sure what else can be done here . I spoke to a good body shop near me the other day explaining the situation and he stated that if something was bent I would likely have a constant pull and not just when braking hard. He seemed to think it’s a brake problem still . I have no idea and i have no other option but to drive as is

Abs does not come on , this also has a new abs modulator

both front rotors should be hotter than rears, did you check them on a few different occasions and was one rotor always hotter than the other by at least 20 degrees or so? I would do a hard brake on an open road and pull over immediately and just double check to see if both fronts are about the same temp and both rears are around the same temp. Did you personally pay to have all 4 calipers, pads, rotors and lines replaced or did the dealership?

I paid for all new calipers and hoses to be installed . All ford parts

Again, as I mentioned earlier, a vehicle will pull towards the side with the least positive caster. When you brake hard, it compresses the suspension and that does affect the geometry a bit. I can't believe so many parts were replaced on your vehicles with ZERO diagnosis, unless you were telling them what to replace.

If you have any doubts about the brakes, do as I instructed earlier and install a brake pressure gauge in place of each bleeder and have someone stomp the brakes while the vehicle is running. The pressures should be equal side to side.

Did you look at alignment sheet that I posted ? Does it tell you anything ?

Did you look at alignment sheet that I posted ? Does it tell you anything ?

Who are you asking? Me? If so, I've been giving you advice based on that alignment sheet, so yes, I looked at it. Have you looked at my responses?

Take your vehicle to a shop with good Yelp reviews that only does suspension work and alignments. Not some chain store, but a purpose built shop that does nothing but under-car work. Have them put it on the rack and see if they can tweak things to get you more positive caster. Sometimes shops which do this work exclusively can have solutions, other shops won't.

I was told caster can’t be adjusted ? Also the body shop I Just spoke with said I would get a constant pull and not just when braking hard ?

That was why this guy at body shop just told me he’s pretty sure brakes are involved in this issue . The only problem is that all the brake parts are new ?

Good luck in finding a solution. I cannot provide you in additional input. I've given you very solid advice, but sitting here doing a back and forth isn't going to help anything.

Just a tip - a body shop doesn't mean they are suspension or mechanical experts.

I Absolutely agree , I’ve had car checked out by numerous mechanics and they can’t seem to find anything loose or worn in any suspension parts. The alignment that I posted was done by a very well known shop. Are you saying that alignment can be manipulated to compensate for my issue ? If that’s the case I will definitely ask them to do it

Can alignment compensate for this if they adjust other settings ? I was told caster is not adjustable

1 deg wouldn't give that "hard" a pull I would think unless something was being twisted under load when braking. Lots of vehicles have 1 deg for road crown, 3 or 4 deg would be an issue for sure. If you have eliminated brakes ( that they are even temperature just after hard braking), I would go to an actual frame/alignment shop as mentioned, not a body shop or Ford dealer.
I'm sure they can rotate the sub frame or strut mount bolts to get that extra degree somewhere if they don't make a caster kit.

Yeah but would that caster that is showing on alignment sheet cause a pull only under hard sudden braking ?

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Persnaps :dunno:, but I've never driven your vehicle to see how the pull is. What did the frame/alignment shop say if the brakes were even temperature and they have ruled them out.