2016 Explorer Sport - Audio System Build | Page 4 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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2016 Explorer Sport - Audio System Build

Awesome install! Do you happen to remember the width that your passenger seat mount board was? Im planning a similar layout and want to make sure all my components will fit there prior to ordering wiring.

What model are those fuse blocks you used? Thanks!!
 



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I have a 2012 explorer limited. I want to hook up my amp and subs to the factory sony radio. I have all the amp wiring kit and I have the scosche loc2slsd. I was wondering if I could splice the loc into the rear pillar speakers? And if any has done that how is the sound quality? If Anybody can help answer my question that would be great.
 






Awesome install! Do you happen to remember the width that your passenger seat mount board was? Im planning a similar layout and want to make sure all my components will fit there prior to ordering wiring.

What model are those fuse blocks you used? Thanks!!
I feel terrible that I completely missed this post. I apologize I don’t remember the width at all. I forget where I bought the fuse blocks also. I’m so very sorry! I realize this is more than a year later
 






I have a 2012 explorer limited. I want to hook up my amp and subs to the factory sony radio. I have all the amp wiring kit and I have the scosche loc2slsd. I was wondering if I could splice the loc into the rear pillar speakers? And if any has done that how is the sound quality? If Anybody can help answer my question that would be great.
As long as your stereo design is putting out unaltered low frequencies on those outputs you can do that no problem.
 






@Lexingtonian , did you add the two jumpers from the APIM harness to the ACM harness referenced in the OP for the variable line out to keep voice prompts and such? Or did just using the front and rear stereo feeds work to keep prompts?
I guess I have missed a bunch of people’s posts. Don’t know how I apologize. Are used all front and rear outputs into my processor. The prompts are generally on the rear channels so you have to keep them and also to hear the rear sensor prompts
 






Was it easy to get to those back d pillar speakers? Wondering if I should get some new 3.5" to put in there.

Thanks and great install.
Big apology to you I’m sorry that I missed your post it’s been almost 2 years. Yes I think it was fairly easy to get to them. I put 4 inch speakers in there I believe I’m really glad I did but I had to do some modifications. I believe I wrote about it early in the build
 






Thanks Lexingtonian.

This does beg another question from me. I was under the impression that the stock amp still had to be kept in order for everything else to run smooth. Is that not the case? I am only amplifying the front doors and the rear doors along with a stealthbox (in the near future), but the rest of the speakers will still be intact I guess being amped by the stock amp.
I am sure I am way too late to answer this question. You can get rid of the amplifier from the factory if you do a full delete and you were using your own Amplification end to end. I’ve never had an issue and so glad that I got rid of that somy factory amp.
 






As long as your stereo design is putting out unaltered low frequencies on those outputs you can do that no problem.
Thank you Lexingtonian. I will have find out. By they way you did a great install on your system. Love the detailed pics.
 






Big apology to you I’m sorry that I missed your post it’s been almost 2 years. Yes I think it was fairly easy to get to them. I put 4 inch speakers in there I believe I’m really glad I did but I had to do some modifications. I believe I wrote about it early in the build
I don't think any of those members, except MM07, will see your replies. tjor was last seen here March 4, 2020 and the other two haven't been here since May and June 2019. :)

Peter
 






Thank you Lexingtonian. I will have find out. By they way you did a great install on your system. Love the detailed pics.
Welcome to the Forum. :wave:

Peter
 






I have changed all the speakers. I did not mess with the amp. Above my pay grade.

I did change the subwoofer.

Both side panels need to come off to access the rear speakers, amp, and sub. Wasn’t too bad.

Search for my 2018 Explorer Speaker Install. Lots of pics.
 












I don't think any of those members, except MM07, will see your replies. tjor was last seen here March 4, 2020 and the other two haven't been here since May and June 2019. :)

Peter
Thanks Peter. It was worth a shot. No idea how I missed the alerts.
 






Very kind of you!
 






Love your stereo install, Lexington. How good does that JL sub and box hit? I've been debating installing the same one from Crutchfield.com.
 






Love your stereo install, Lexington. How good does that JL sub and box hit? I've been debating installing the same one from Crutchfield.com.
Hits as well as a single 10 can. Your neighbor’s aren’t going to hear it but it will rattle the rear view mirror. It will need to be EQ’d a bit to smooth out resonances if you want to fully dial it in. For me I love how it isn’t in the way. I’d prefer two 10’s or a 12 but this is a nice compromise between form and function. In a SQ install its more than enough. It makes the factory 8” sound like an anemic 6”
 






Love this thread, inspired me to toss a 5.25 into the center position to start my build (mostly because it was cheap but labor intensive and I needed more things to do like a hole in the head, but it's sort of cathartic to finish a project even if its small). That said, I couldn't find in either of your threads and real detail/pictures of the 8" install in the front doors. That's my next goal. Am I just overlooking it trying to scroll around while doing 3 other things or can you maybe briefly explain/toss up pics? I had planned to just buy a sheet of MDF and make custom adapters/rings to space them out as it looks like the OEM speakers sit way proud of the door. Just trying to figure out what/how much modification to the door panels needs to be made and/or what other hurdles I should be aware of. Was planning to deaden the door and door card and maybe get some foam to pack around the speaker in any unused space to direct the sound out through the grille. I know OP hasn't been on in a few months but maybe I'll get lucky?
 






Love this thread, inspired me to toss a 5.25 into the center position to start my build (mostly because it was cheap but labor intensive and I needed more things to do like a hole in the head, but it's sort of cathartic to finish a project even if its small). That said, I couldn't find in either of your threads and real detail/pictures of the 8" install in the front doors. That's my next goal. Am I just overlooking it trying to scroll around while doing 3 other things or can you maybe briefly explain/toss up pics? I had planned to just buy a sheet of MDF and make custom adapters/rings to space them out as it looks like the OEM speakers sit way proud of the door. Just trying to figure out what/how much modification to the door panels needs to be made and/or what other hurdles I should be aware of. Was planning to deaden the door and door card and maybe get some foam to pack around the speaker in any unused space to direct the sound out through the grille. I know OP hasn't been on in a few months but maybe I'll get lucky?
Looks like you got lucky!

It’s been a while since I’ve been in there. And I have no idea where my original pictures are. I’ll just say, it’s tricky. If I were to do it over again, I would do a 6 x 9 or a 6 x 8 and not do the 8 inch. It was a pain and I did not enjoy it at all :) The eight sounds pretty good but the door could use a lot of deadening and I didn’t do a lot of deadening. So it’s sort of free air. What I ended up doing is getting a cantilevered 8 inch speaker mount made from ABS and heavily modified it with a pair of pliers and a blow torch (yes, pulp
fiction style) to get everything to fit right.

I also took a lot of plastic off of the inside of the stock grills because the speaker surrounds were hitting it. Again, get a great stock replacement and call it good.
 






Looks like you got lucky!

It’s been a while since I’ve been in there. And I have no idea where my original pictures are. I’ll just say, it’s tricky. If I were to do it over again, I would do a 6 x 9 or a 6 x 8 and not do the 8 inch. It was a pain and I did not enjoy it at all :) The eight sounds pretty good but the door could use a lot of deadening and I didn’t do a lot of deadening. So it’s sort of free air. What I ended up doing is getting a cantilevered 8 inch speaker mount made from ABS and heavily modified it with a pair of pliers and a blow torch (yes, pulp
fiction style) to get everything to fit right.

I also took a lot of plastic off of the inside of the stock grills because the speaker surrounds were hitting it. Again, get a great stock replacement and call it good.
Thanks for the reply. I was kind of leaning toward trying to find a 6.75 or 6.5 as I've always had a strong bias toward "round" drivers. Do you think a modern 6x9 is better, I know at one time the wisdom was that there was less or less controlled excursion on non-round drivers so even if they had larger cone areas they were often inferior for output/quality? Would like to continue putting more bass up front so the 6x9 may be the better option, and can be done in no time since they make an adapter for that application...
 



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Thanks for the reply. I was kind of leaning toward trying to find a 6.75 or 6.5 as I've always had a strong bias toward "round" drivers. Do you think a modern 6x9 is better, I know at one time the wisdom was that there was less or less controlled excursion on non-round drivers so even if they had larger cone areas they were often inferior for output/quality? Would like to continue putting more bass up front so the 6x9 may be the better option, and can be done in no time since they make an adapter for that application...
Actually I feel like my stock drivers put out more bass than my 8”. My 8” is more SQ. I think it’s probably splitting hairs a little. Prob not worth the fab work. I was stuck on round drivers too.
 






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