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2016 Ford Explorer - Timing Problem

Dejanpapa

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November 6, 2019
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Location
Hungary
City, State
Budapest
Year, Model & Trim Level
2016 Ford Explorer Base
Hello! I'm having a timing problem with my 2016 Ford Explorer base model with a 3.5 liter engine. I want to replace the timing chain but when I took off the timing chain cover, the timing marks were not lining up as it was shown in the service manual. The timing marks on the phasers are where they are supposed to be, the cam shaft tools fall into place on both sides easily, but the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket is at about 2'o clock position instead of 4'o clock. (The reason for the timing chain replacement was that it possibly skipped, cylinders 1,2 and 3 had missfire, very rough idle, trouble codes were P0016, P0300, P0301 and P0302. All the ignition components were replaced.)

Does anybody know how to proceed with this? Should I take the chain off and adjust the crankshaft so that the mark will be in the correct position?
 

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Welcome to the Forum. :wave:
Sorry, I can't help with your issue, but I was wondering how many miles/kilometres are on the engine? Is it worth changing the water pump as well? Water pump failure leads to dead engine

Peter
 






Welcome to the Forum. :wave:
Sorry, I can't help with your issue, but I was wondering how many miles/kilometres are on the engine? Is it worth changing the water pump as well? Water pump failure leads to dead engine

Peter
Hi
Thank You!

It has a bit more than 93000 kilometers. I will also change the water pump since I’ve taken it apart So much.

Regards,
Dejan
 






@KayGee

Hopefully you will hear from Kaygee who knows a lot about the mechanics.
 






@KayGee

Hopefully you will hear from Kaygee who knows a lot about the mechanics.
93000 kilometers is pretty low, thats under 60,000 miles, would the powertrian warranty cover this for a 2016? . The picture shows quite a bit of varnish, curious if oil changes were done regularly?
 






93000 kilometers is pretty low, thats under 60,000 miles, would the powertrian warranty cover this for a 2016? . The picture shows quite a bit of varnish, curious if oil changes were done regularly?
Sadly warranty is off the table. The vehicle was shipped to Europe. It was a US government owned car with poor maintenance. Dealers here can’t help with cars from the US, so it’s pretty much a DIY project for me.
 






Hello! I'm having a timing problem with my 2016 Ford Explorer base model with a 3.5 liter engine. I want to replace the timing chain but when I took off the timing chain cover, the timing marks were not lining up as it was shown in the service manual. The timing marks on the phasers are where they are supposed to be, the cam shaft tools fall into place on both sides easily, but the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket is at about 2'o clock position instead of 4'o clock. (The reason for the timing chain replacement was that it possibly skipped, cylinders 1,2 and 3 had missfire, very rough idle, trouble codes were P0016, P0300, P0301 and P0302. All the ignition components were replaced.)

Does anybody know how to proceed with this? Should I take the chain off and adjust the crankshaft so that the mark will be in the correct position?

If you have the cams oriented correctly you can then remove the tensioner and re-orient the crank so the dot is in the correct location. Keep in mind there are colored reference links on the chain for both cams and the crank. They may not be very visible if the engine internals are dirty. You want to use the colored links as reference and align them to the dots on he cams and the crank, then install the tensioner, pull the pin and double check everything is still in alignment. Sometimes the chain will slip off the crank gear while you are trying to get the tensioner installed. If you already have it apart, I highly recommend a new tensioner, chain and definitely a Motorcraft pump. Also inspect the guides for excessive wear and replace if necessary.
 






If you have the cams oriented correctly you can then remove the tensioner and re-orient the crank so the dot is in the correct location. Keep in mind there are colored reference links on the chain for both cams and the crank. They may not be very visible if the engine internals are dirty. You want to use the colored links as reference and align them to the dots on he cams and the crank, then install the tensioner, pull the pin and double check everything is still in alignment. Sometimes the chain will slip off the crank gear while you are trying to get the tensioner installed. If you already have it apart, I highly recommend a new tensioner, chain and definitely a Motorcraft pump. Also inspect the guides for excessive wear and replace if necessary.
You can see one of the orange reference links in your photos. You should find 3 of them around the chain. Also keep in mind those reference marks do not line themselves back up every time the engine rotates through one complete cycle. I believe its something like 17 cycles...so don’t use them to determine whether the current timing is out unless you want to bar the engine over forever while you wait for them to come back into phase.
 






If you have the cams oriented correctly you can then remove the tensioner and re-orient the crank so the dot is in the correct location. Keep in mind there are colored reference links on the chain for both cams and the crank. They may not be very visible if the engine internals are dirty. You want to use the colored links as reference and align them to the dots on he cams and the crank, then install the tensioner, pull the pin and double check everything is still in alignment. Sometimes the chain will slip off the crank gear while you are trying to get the tensioner installed. If you already have it apart, I highly recommend a new tensioner, chain and definitely a Motorcraft pump. Also inspect the guides for excessive wear and replace if necessary.
Thank You!
I will do it on Saturday. The only thing I don’t understand is that how could this happen? How can the timing be so much off with the vehicle still working.
 






Thank You!
I will do it on Saturday. The only thing I don’t understand is that how could this happen? How can the timing be so much off with the vehicle still working.
I’ve not seen one skip a tooth on the cams; normally if the chain stretches to the point that the tensioner reaches the end of its travel limit and the chain becomes loose it will skip down at the crank gear and cause both banks to be retarded. Without looking at it in person it’s difficult to say what happened to yours.
 






My crankshaft turns for a bit then it stops and won't turn. It won't so I can't align the marks. It's like it's stuck. I gave up and locked it up in storage.
 






My crankshaft turns for a bit then it stops and won't turn. It won't so I can't align the marks. It's like it's stuck. I gave up and locked it up in storage.
The 3.5 is an interference engine, you can only turn the crank so far before a piston will contact the valves and cause the crank to stop turning. Do not force it or you will bend the valves then you will have a much bigger problem on your hands.

Often the cams will rotate a bit once you remove the primary chain; you can rotate them back into position carefully to get the slots in the cams (behind the phasers) back to the 12 o’clock positions. This is where you want them to time the engine.
 






My crankshaft turns for a bit then it stops and won't turn. It won't so I can't align the marks. It's like it's stuck. I gave up and locked it up in storage.
Slowly and evenly unbolt and remove the all cam caps (marking their direction and placement) so you can remove the cams. Then pull spark plugs. Then you should be able to turn the crank over multiple times without issue. If it doesn't turn smoothly at this point its done and time for another.
 






My crankshaft turns for a bit then it stops and won't turn. It won't so I can't align the marks. It's like it's stuck. I gave up and locked it up in storage.
Welcome to the Forum. :wave:
Good luck and Happy New Year. Let us know how it went.

Peter
 






The 3.5 is an interference engine, you can only turn the crank so far before a piston will contact the valves and cause the crank to stop turning. Do not force it or you will bend the valves then you will have a much bigger problem on your hands.

Often the cams will rotate a bit once you remove the primary chain; you can rotate them back into position carefully to get the slots in the cams (behind the phasers) back to the 12 o’clock positions. This is where you want them to time the engine.
Thanks for the update. I get my info from alldata.com and it says to set the marks to 11 o'clock 1 o'clock and 4 o'clock but it just won't turn at all. I will tow it out of storage and try again. I will probably re.ove all timing chain parts and put it back. Hopefully this will work.
 






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