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2017 Explorer XLT coolant missing

Unless an '18 engine does something I don't understand, that does not look right. The radiator pressure valve to the tank should have been closed at the point where the engine was started, then open when the heated coolant expanded, increasing the level of coolant in the reservoir, then when the engine shuts off and the coolant contracts, then it sucks it back in from the coolant reservoir. Maybe I'm dating myself and that's no longer how it works, but seems like it has to because of the physics of expansion and contraction?

What about the marks on the tank? Doesn't it have a full cold and full hot mark, or at least one or the other so you can monitor whether it's losing coolant? If it is not losing coolant now/still, then possibly it is okay but I'd still wonder about that valve seeming to be staying open, as well as why it's being sucked in when revving the engine.

I still suspect you have a head gasket or block leak and it is both sucking coolant in and out the exhaust, and possibly putting exhaust out the tank. I do not understand how they can refuse to check further if it is losing coolant. Be sure to have it documented (proof) when you took it to them for this problem so they can't just screw around thinking the warranty will run out. Have it on a dated work order as the customer complaint.

Also you have some kind of squeak to the point of a squeal, I'd look into that, have that fixed as well.

The coolant was filled to the cold fill line after it was sitting for 8 hours and the video is about an hour after it was filled to the cold fill. I have a block tester (fluid and ball one) that I will use as soon as it cools some when she gets home tonight.

I will make sure she gets the papers to reflect that the initial complaint was the coolant level.
 



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Now part of the club... 2018 Explorer... 66K miles.. just today started blowing white smoke and coolant reservoir empty... So now waiting on official diagnosis from dealer and have already filed a complaint with NHTSA and opened a case with Ford.

However, it does look like there are several class actions going/starting about this:.

.

Miller, et al. v. Ford Motor Company, is currently pending in the United States District Court for the Eastern District of California, Case No. 2:20-cv-01796-TLN-CKD. Capstone Law APC



U.S. District Court for the District of Delaware: Reed, et al., v. Ford Motor Company.



If you end up out of pocket for the 2.0 Ecoboost engine failure, keep all receipts and paperwork. Make sure you are getting the new designed engine to replace the faulty designed engine. Here is a link to the lawfirm handling the consolidated case: Home
 






Sorry for the long delay. They insisted that the problem was fixed. I ran a block test with the fluid sniffer and it was fine. However, still losing coolant, like a tank every 2-3 days.

Went back and the service manager got it in today, said it is still covered for this complaint and now they saw golly gee, the water pump is leaking. This is a Toyota dealership and they are giving us a loaner while sending it to a Ford dealer for repair.

Think we dodged a hefty price tag here!
 






Yeah, IDK the amount of labor for the 2.3L ecoboost water pump (couple hours, if that?) , but for either of the 3.5L engines, the internal water pump is an over $1K repair. Did you mention which engine yours has?
 






Yeah, IDK the amount of labor for the 2.3L ecoboost water pump (couple hours, if that?) , but for either of the 3.5L engines, the internal water pump is an over $1K repair. Did you mention which engine yours has?
Pretty sure it is the 3.5L
 






Basically you're getting free, what a lot of people end up paying over $1k for out of (arguably justified) paranoia around 100K mi even with no evidence of a leak yet, because they don't want to risk coolant getting into their oil and trashing the 3.5L engine before they notice it.
 






Sorry for the long delay. They insisted that the problem was fixed. I ran a block test with the fluid sniffer and it was fine. However, still losing coolant, like a tank every 2-3 days.

Went back and the service manager got it in today, said it is still covered for this complaint and now they saw golly gee, the water pump is leaking. This is a Toyota dealership and they are giving us a loaner while sending it to a Ford dealer for repair.

Think we dodged a hefty price tag here!
If you have the3.5L and were losing that much coolant and it wasn't dripping on the ground then it likely drained into the engine so I wouldn't be surprised if the engine needs to be replaced after contaminating the oil all this time.

Peter
 






If you have the3.5L and were losing that much coolant and it wasn't dripping on the ground then it likely drained into the engine so I wouldn't be surprised if the engine needs to be replaced after contaminating the oil all this time.

Peter
Ouch. For the dealer that is. They are sending it out to the local Ford dealer to be repaired but apparently there is some infighting over who is going to pay for it. The used car portion of the dealership that sold my gf the car, or the service shop that didn't listen to her in the first place and released the un-repaired car. As soon as they figure that out, and it is sent over, she will talk to the Ford dealer and tell them to make sure it has a clean bill of health.

If the engine needs replacement, I wonder if the previous owner traded it in at the first sign of trouble.
 






If they had not done an oil change yet, then I'd check the oil. If it doesn't look like a chocolate milkshake, then it is unlikely enough (if any) coolant got into the oil to potentially cause damage.

Since it was already losing coolant when you wrote on July 2nd,
It has not appeared milky so far
... then it is probably a fortunate case where only the exterior seal has failed, except that probably happened due to wobble from the bearing failing so the longer it is ran like that, the more likely an internal leak happens. I assume that was the squeal heard in the video?
 






If I wad leasing a car or didn't have a plan to keep it 20 years I'd toss it at the first sign of trouble. I'd really have to like a car to replace an engine if it was that new. An engine should last 250K miles at least.
 






If I wad leasing a car or didn't have a plan to keep it 20 years I'd toss it at the first sign of trouble. I'd really have to like a car to replace an engine if it was that new. An engine should last 250K miles at least.
Even with a lease, the vehicle must be repaired when returned. I lease my vehicles and keep them 3-4 years so they are always under warranty.

Peter
 






Even with a lease, the vehicle must be repaired when returned. I lease my vehicles and keep them 3-4 years so they are always under warranty.

Peter
That's not a bad idea. So someone at OPs dealership knew the damage and worked to unload it before it blew. Either that or the original owner knew how to conceal it from the dealership when unloading it. At least OP got out of having to repair it. Such BS that owners have to pay that much for a water pump early to avoid this problem especially since the part and belt is supposed to be replaced at 150K miles. But leasing sounds nice. All my cars are going to kids someday so they're all adopted lifers so better or worse I'm stuck with what the future holds.
 






^ Yes, and then there's my case, where mine will probably be over 20 years old by the time it hits 100K mi, if even by then, so how long do I wait to decide whether it's mileage or also time that takes its toll, so that it's time to replace the water pump? The coolant was flushed and switched to the Motorcraft VC-13G yellow a few years back, maybe that will help but I doubt it will make much difference because even if it conditions the seals better, the pump bearing itself is not lubricated by coolant.

Despite a lot of people stating that Ford QC is terrible in recent years, I've had very little go wrong on my '14 so far. The fit on the passenger rear door, it isn't aligned perfectly, and the rubber trim on the driver's rear door window pokes out a little (since about three(?) years old), but otherwise, all I can think of at the moment is the rear toe link recall. There was the windshield trim and CO leak recalls but mine has not had either problem, yet.
 






but for either of the 3.5L engines, the internal water pump is an over $1K repair. Did you mention which engine yours has?

Just for kicks called the local dealer for a price quote 3.5 water pump replacement on a 2016. Shocked when they came back at $4100 with $180/hr labor. The usual I hear around is $3000, 13hrs. labor with $500 parts.
 






Just for kicks called the local dealer for a price quote 3.5 water pump replacement on a 2016. Shocked when they came back at $4100 with $180/hr labor. The usual I hear around is $3000, 13hrs. labor with $500 parts.
I wish I was surprised, aka "criminals" for trying to charge that much, and then when you realize what a counter-customer attitude they have, then you can't even trust that paying that much would be better than taking it somewhere else.
 






The minimum for the job IMO is pump, timing chain, tensioner, spark plugs, fluids, crank bolt and guides. I am sure their quote was all new valve cover tube seals, cam to cam chains, tensioners, etc.
 


















^ Add shipping costs but yeah, just another example of hidden profit for shops, to markup parts that much. I've always been opposed to this practice, that if their profit margins are too thin, charge more for labor, open and honest instead of deceit about parts prices.
 



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^ Add shipping costs but yeah, just another example of hidden profit for shops, to markup parts that much. I've always been opposed to this practice, that if their profit margins are too thin, charge more for labor, open and honest instead of deceit about parts prices.
I edited my post above, the job was done at a Ford dealership. If I have time I'll post the entire invoice. It adds salt to the wound of this design flaw that Ford has taken zero responsibility for and gladly makes service revenue from post warranty water pump failures.
 






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