2020 XLT Non-B&O Stereo Upgrade

[MrBlonde]

Loving my 2020 XLT but my ears weep every time I listen to music. I spend a fair amount of time on the road and found myself listening to podcasts and news radio most of time, partly because listening to music was just not enjoyable. I'm no audiophile but I do appreciate music and know when it sounds good to my ears - the stock non-B&O just was not cutting it.

I've seen a couple of threads here for various upgrades to components (mainly the subwoofer) of the B&O system but not much on upgrading the XLT. So I thought I'd share what I did and what components I used.

Let me just say, it now sounds amazing. The factory head unit is fine, especially when playing high quality music - I use Amazon's HD music service for example. The clarity and detail even at upper volume levels is night and day from the factory sound.

There were two key aids in getting this done. One was the following thread from this forum showing the removal of various panels and someone's suggestion on where to route the power for the sub amp. There is an unused grommet perfectly sized for my 4-gage power just above the left foot rest. There is a pic in this thread:
How to: - 2020 Explorer ST Aftermarket Amp & Sub Install

The second was the wiring harnesses included with the kit from plugnplaykits.com - this REALLY simplified interfacing with the factory stereo (which is behind the back, right panel, opposite where the sub is on the B&O system). You just pull that panel, disconnect (2) wiring harnesses from the factory stereo/amp and connect to the wiring from plugnplaykits.com - easy peasy. He has several kits to choose from and I received mine in just a couple of days - money well spent!

Here's what I changed/added:

Front Door Speakers:
Infinity Reference 6530CX 6-1/2" Component Speaker
Amazon product ASIN B07B8TXHRL

Rear Door Speakers:
Infinity Reference 6532EX - 6-1/2” Shallow Mount Coaxial Speaker
Amazon product ASIN B07B8TNXZG

Subwoofer:
KICKER 46TL7T102 10 Inch 2 Ohm 500 Watt RMS Power and 1000 Watts Peak Power Single Car Audio Thin Profile Subwoofer Enclosure
Amazon product ASIN B07V591PKF

Main Speaker Amp:
Kicker Key 200.4 (50-watts rms x4 channels)
Kicker 47KEY200.4

Sub Amp:
Rockville Krypton-M2 3000w Peak/750w RMS Mono 1 Ohm
Amazon product ASIN B099DG2CHT

Wiring Harness:
2020 And Up Ford Explorer NON Amplified Radio Plug 'n Play Audio Harnesses: Kits

Couple of notes on the install:

1. The plugnplay kit I chose also came with and AudioControl LC2i Pro unit. This basically takes the high level speaker signal from the Ford head unit and converts it to low level RCA outs so I could connect my Sub amp. It also has some cool features like AccuBass but I'm not hearing much bass roll-off from the factory stereo so I have it defeated for now.
2. Subwoofer: I didn't want to give up any storage space in the cargo area. I have a cargo mat from 2nd row back and never use or plan to use the 3rd row. So, I removed the 3rd row seat bottom and laid the subwoofer just behind the 2nd row seats, letting it extend into where the 3rd row would have prevented it from going and anchored it there. Don't even know it's there and I won't miss the 3rd row (hopefully).
3. The infinity components come with an unnecessarily large crossover for the tweeters. The factory wiring of the woofer/tweeter pair feeds both speaker from the source! So I had a little extra wiring to do there to remedy that and get the much needed crossover in-line. I mounted it in a cavity on the upper part of the door, just under where the side mirror would align.
4. Tweeters - these fit loosely in the factory spot so I had to reinforce that with some tape and silicone but they are secure.
5. Kicker Key amp - this has a cool EQ process much like your home theater receiver where you place a microphone at the driver's head rest and let the Key run some test tones and then EQ/level the individual speakers. The end result is really impressive. You could even Bi-amp the front components for even better sound but that would have required additional speaker wiring from the doors to the amp - no thanks.
6. I mounted the amps and LC2 units in the shallow storage space just above the wheel. Hated to give up that storage but oh well - not much choice and everything is well out of site but easily accessible for tweaking the settings. Here's what that looks like:

Hopefully, this helps someone whose ears, like mine, would cry when listening to music on the stock XLT stereo system. It is quite possible to upgrade the system with incredibly satisfying results. My total cost, all in for parts was around $1,200.00.

 

[ooHi-Fioo]

Nice writeup. I'm researching some options because I found out the base ST I ordered does not have B&O like ford.com indicated it would.

Did you consider using the space where the subwoofer would have been, for something like a basslink?

 

[peterk9]

Nice writeup. I'm researching some options because I found out the base ST I ordered does not have B&O like ford.com indicated it would.

Did you consider using the space where the subwoofer would have been, for something like a basslink?

Welcome to the Forum.
I don't even see the 2022 Explorer on the ford.com website. Did you check the 2022 Order Guide that's posted in this forum?

According to the Order Guide the following is NOT included in the 400A package;
• B&O® Sound System by Bang & Olufsen®, 12 Speakers including Subwoofer

Peter

 

[ooHi-Fioo]

Welcome to the Forum.
I don't even see the 2022 Explorer on the ford.com website. Did you check the 2022 Order Guide that's posted in this forum?

According to the Order Guide the following is NOT included in the 400A package;
• B&O® Sound System by Bang & Olufsen®, 12 Speakers including Subwoofer

Peter

Thanks, it's a long story but the build deal I did at the dealership said it was included, but the order guide says it isn't. I found out it's definitely not included so I'm looking at upgrade options.

Still waiting about 2 more months to get it.

 

[ooHi-Fioo]

OP, it sounds like even the base system has an amp in the back passenger side panel, not at the actual head unit? Then wiring to the 4 door speakers is run from there?

 

[MrBlonde]

Nice writeup. I'm researching some options because I found out the base ST I ordered does not have B&O like ford.com indicated it would.

Did you consider using the space where the subwoofer would have been, for something like a basslink?

Not really. I was looking for a bit more punch then a smaller speaker/enclosure could provide but it's probably doable.

 

[MrBlonde]

OP, it sounds like even the base system has an amp in the back passenger side panel, not at the actual head unit? Then wiring to the 4 door speakers is run from there?

The head unit/amp looks to be all together. The front knobs/buttons are controls only - there's nothing behind the front "stereo controls" panel.

All speaker wires come from that right-rear location.

Note, there are only (4) pairs of wires in the XLT. The front components are fed from the same feed so you can't bi-amp them unfortunately without running new wires.

 

[911jason]

Don’t know how I missed this thread. I am SO with you on your feelings about the XLT radio. I also have switched to primarily podcasts since getting the Explorer, which drives me nuts. I have always loved listening to music while driving and it’s such a terrible experience in this car. I checked into having a local shop upgrade my system last year and when they came back with three options and the cheapest was more than $3k I decided I didn’t like the car enough to put that kind of cash into it.

So is the amp power the only wire you had to run?

Kicker also makes a shallow mount sub that will fit nicely in the cargo tray you used for your components. I was thinking about either installing one of those there, or using a powered low profile sub underneath the driver’s seat if there’s room.

 

[peterk9]

I don't believe that the members that posted above are following this thread any longer. The most recent member last posted a yea ago.
Perhaps others will see this and jump in. Good luck.

Peter