How to: - 2nd Gen 4wd Troubleshooting Guide | Page 3 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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How to: 2nd Gen 4wd Troubleshooting Guide

Prefix for threads which are instructional.
oh by the way it seems to be trying to engage ,on ice it snaps & u can feel the front wheels try to grab hope that helps u
 



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Okay I have a 96 4.0L....now the lights both work. the front drive shaft locks. the front tire when rotated does not spin the opposite front tire at all. neither forward nor backward. now 4wd low works. i can hear it engage and disengage but 4wd auto does nothing. Any suggestions? what is my next step to troubleshooting this issue?
 






Search for the vacuum-actuated "CAD" or "center axle disconnect" - which is unique for the 95-96 Explorers.
 






Hey Joe, I had a question. My uncle has an 01 Sport and says when putting the switch to 4hi or 4low that it does nothing. From my understanding from what you said on the 1st page, this transfer case has 3 positions like a 1354 is this true? It will help me trouble shoot his truck better if I know what I'm looking at, thanks.
 






My parent's have a '95 explorer 4.0L. When you put it in AWD it won't go in until you come to a complete stop. It also won't come out until you come to a complete stop. The 4WD light also starts flashing 6 times then a long pause then 6 more times. Dad's taken it to the Ford garage and they say there is no codes with 6 flashes for this year. I don't know if there is a cut off mid year but it's an early '95 if there is such a thing. Any help would be great as I'm driving it right now being the tranny in my '96 Explorer is acting up. I'd love to be able to fix this for them while I have it.
 






what transfer case do i have

I have a 98red explorer fly. It had a transfercase swap b4 I bought it and there is no tag on the case itself. My car has a 2H,4auto,4L switch on the dash but it is always in 4wd. I took the shift motor off and the case reads where the motor was mounted 4H, N, and4L. So I dnt knw what I have going on? Please help me knw what it is
 






The shift motor only moves between Hi & Lo range. The front axle is engaged by a clutch (in the T case) activated by the GEM when it detects wheel spin in 4auto. In 4Low is on all the time. And in 2wd it simply ingnores wheel spin but the Tcase stays in 4Hi.

What do you mean it's in 4wd all the time? The 4wd dashboard light is on when 2wd is selected?
 






2nd gen 4x4 explorer 4door

Seeing as it's that time of year again, I thought I might create a quick, dirty, and simple troubleshooting procedure for those having issues. I don't plan to cover all the possible causes, but it's quite easy to narrow it down to a mechanical issue with the transfer case, front axle, or an electrical gremlin. Everyone seems to start with 'My 4wd isn't working! What now?' so here's my quick answer to help you get started troubleshooting.

Background

First, on the 2nd gen Explorers, there are a few different transfer case setups depending on the model and year. I'll try and be as comprehensive as possible, but I'll probably miss a couple.

If you have an all wheel drive V-8-equipped Explorer, you have a Borg-Warner 44-06 transfer case. It uses a viscous coupling between the front and rear driveshafts. It's a relatively simple system, with no switches, knobs, or electronics to fail. I won't get into troubleshooting here because there isn't much to do. In general, either it works, or it doesn't.

The 44-05 transfer cases used behind all the V-6 second-gen Explorers fall into a few groups:

--The 95-96 4-doors have an electronically controlled t-case. They also use a electro-vacuum-actuated center-axle disconnect to lock and unlock the passenger side axle shaft.

--The 97-01 4-doors, and the 95-00 Sports use the same 44-05 transfer case as the 95-96, minus the center-axle disconnect in favor of a live axle.

--The '01-'04 Sport and '01-'04(maybe '05?) Sport Trac uses a 44-05, but it functions much like the 1st-gen's 13-54 (i.e. it uses a lockup collar actuated by the shift motor).

When in doubt as to which group you fall into, use the control knob on your dash as the guide.

I won't get into the precise details of the inner workings of the transfer case here. If you're curious, there's more info at the beginning of the 'Comprehensive Brown Wire Mod Thread'. If you still have detailed questions about the inner workings of the t-case, please start a new thread. Someone more knowledgable than I will be along shortly to serve inquiring minds.

Now, that being said, I want to make one important note perfectly clear:

If you have a 95-01 4-door, or a 95-00 Sport, the transfer case shift motor does not control the transfer case lockup. The transfer case shift motor is solely responsible for range selection and range selection only. If the 4 wheel drive is not working on the afore-mentioned models/years, it's absolutely NOT the fault of the shift motor, and the shift motor does NOT need to be

Also, if your mechanic suggests that you've blown the hubs on your second gen Explorer, laugh uproariously, then run, don't walk, to another mechanic. You do not have locking hubs that can fail like the first-generation Explorers did. The outer CV joints are solidly splined to the front wheel flange/hub assemblies, just like on a front wheel drive car. If your 'hubs' are bad, you'll know it (and it'll have nothing to do with your 4wd system).

Finally, please note that I'm making the assumption that your 4wd light comes on in any of these cases. If the 4wd light is not coming on to start with, please start a new thread and we'll go from there. Each model and year's wiring can vary slightly, so to try and include every combination here would be very difficult.

OK, enough background. Let's get started!

My 4wd light comes on, but it isn't working: Now What?!!?

95-96
Your control knob should say 2wd, 4auto, 4low.

First, we need to narrow it down to a transfer case issue, or a front axle issue.
Step 1) Jack up the front end and place it securely on jack stands.
Step 2) Verify that the front driveshaft turns by hand. When turning the front driveshaft by hand, the front wheels may or may not turn. Do not be alarmed if they don't turn. This is normal for your vehicle.
Step 3) Start the vehicle and let it idle.
Place your foot firmly on the brakes, place the transmission in NEUTRAL, engage 4low, then place the vehicle back in park. DO NOT ENGAGE ANY GEAR!! The lurch as the transmission engages could cause the vehicle to lurch and potentially fall off the jack stands.**If you can turn the front driveshaft, the transfer case is not locking. This could be due to a mechanical issue with the transfer case itself, or an electrical gremlin with the control system. Start a new thread with the results of your checks, and we'll go from there.
**If the front driveshaft does not turn, the transfer case is locking properly and we need to continue searching.
Step 4) With the front wheels in the air, engine idling in PARK, spin one front wheel. The other wheel should spin the opposite direction. If both wheels spin in opposite directions, then the front axle *should* be properly engaged. Take it for a test drive (after safely lowering it to the ground, of course). If the front wheels do not spin in opposite directions, there is a problem with the front axle. This could be due to a mechanical problem with the diff, or a failure of the center axle disconnect to engage the passenger side axle shaft. Start a new thread with the results of your checks, and we'll go from there.

Troubleshooting the CAD on a 95-96 is a bit more involved than I want to get into here, and the problems can vary widely. This'll get you started.


97-01 4-door and 96-00 Sports
Your control knob should say 4auto, 4high, 4low.
First, we need to narrow it down to a transfer case issue, or a front axle issue.

Step 1) Jack up the front end and place it securely on jack stands.

Step 2) Verify that the front driveshaft turns by hand. When turning the front driveshaft by hand, the front wheels should turn. (If only one turns, don't be alarmed. One wheel sometimes has more resistance in the brakes, bearings, or CV joints. This is normal)

Step 3) Start the vehicle and let it idle in PARK. Engage 4high. DO NOT PUT THE VEHICLE IN GEAR!!! Crawl underneath and see if you can turn the front driveshaft.
**I
f you can turn the front driveshaft, the transfer case is not locking. This could be due to a mechanical issue with the transfer case itself, or an electrical gremlin with the control system. Start a new thread with the results of your checks, and we'll go from there.
**If the front driveshaft does not turn, the transfer case is locking properly and we need to continue searching.

Step 4) With the front wheels in the air, engine idling in PARK, spin one front wheel. The other wheel should spin the opposite direction. If both wheels spin in opposite directions, then the front axle *should* be properly engaged. Take it for a test drive (after safely lowering it to the ground, of course).
If the front wheels do not spin in opposite directions, there is a problem with the front axle. Start a new thread with the results of your checks, and we'll go from there.


'01-'03 Sport and '01-'05 Sport Trac
Your control knob should say 2wd, 4high, 4low

The transfer case in these trucks functions essentially like the 1st-gens' 13-54 t-case. (i.e. it uses a lockup collar engaged by the transfer case shift motor) The troubleshooting procedure is very similar, but you don't need to worry about hubs or center-axle disconnects engaging.

Step 1) Jack up the front end and place it securely on jack stands.

Step 2) Verify that the front driveshaft turns by hand. When turning the front driveshaft by hand, the front wheels should turn. (If only one turns, don't be alarmed. One wheel sometimes has more resistance in the brakes, bearings, or CV joints. This is normal)

Step 3) Start the vehicle and let it idle in PARK. Engage 4high. DO NOT PUT THE VEHICLE IN GEAR!!! Crawl underneath and see if you can turn the front driveshaft.
**I
f you can turn the front driveshaft, the transfer case is not locking.
The shift motor could be falsely reading an incorrect t-case position, or it could be a mechanical issue with the case itself. Start a new thread with the results of your checks, and we'll go from there.
**If the front driveshaft does not turn, the transfer case is locking properly and we need to continue searching.

Step 4) With the front wheels in the air, engine idling in PARK, spin one front wheel. The other wheel should spin the opposite direction.
If it does, the system should be properly engaged. Safely lower the vehicle to the ground and take it for a test drive. If the wheels do NOT spin in opposite directions, there is a problem with the front differential or axle. Start a new thread with the results of your checks, and we'll go from there.



___________________________________________________________________

IF YOU HAVE MORE QUESTIONS ABOUT YOUR SPECIFIC VEHICLE'S PROBLEM, PLEASE START A NEW THREAD DESCRIBING YOUR TROUBLE. Please limit the discussion here to details specific to this troubleshooting procedure.

I hope this helps a few people get started!!


Now what did I forget? Tips? Comments? Suggestions? I'm all ears!


-Joe

I did all of the above and mine still only stays in 4x4 for 15 seconds then both the 4 lo and 4 hi lights blink 6 times its bac in 2 whell drive they blink 6 times every three minutes for 6 times
 






Hello the one i have is the 1997 but says 1996 on the door
97-01 4-door and 96-00 Sports
Your control knob should say 4auto, 4high, 4low.
First, we need to narrow it down to a transfer case issue, or a front axle issue.
I have checked the fuses all of them i put a new trasfercase motor on and just put two new hubs on last night and still the front end will not engage i have jacked the front end up and turned the wheels the turn the oppeset way but sometimes when turning it one wheel stops turning when you spin the drive shaft they both turn and go the oppest way the 4 wheel high and low light will come on when switched just don't understand why the front won't lock in any help would be great
 






Sounds like a falty CAD to me. I would check it and around it for vacume leeks.and if all elce fails lock the dam seunoid in place the wire ties like I did.
 






I have a 2000 Eddie Bauer explorer 4wd is not working I did your test and the front drive shaft spins freely while in 4hi or 4low wat should be the next step
 






I have a 98 Explorer - I followed the trouble shooting above and all seems to be okay but the front wheels don't seem to engage under load when in 4wd high or low. Not sure where to look next.
 






Having a similar problem with my 2000. If it's under load that it's failing could be the T-case clutch.
 






Is there any way to test the T-case clutch or just replace the T-case?
 






Put it in 4wd hi or low. On dry pavement Get going real slow, throw it in neutral and turn sharply. The front and read axels should bind as the front wheels try to turn faster then the back. The truck should come to a stop and feel like the brakes are on. It will put a lot of stress on the clutch.
I've done this with mine and got some binding but not enough to stop the truck or cause a wheel to skip.

Just to confirm. What I'm going to do is remove the rear drive shaft. Then drive in 4wd hi. Effectively front wheel drive. Give it some gas from a dead stop, any slippage will be obvious.
 






Put it in 4wd hi or low. On dry pavement Get going real slow, throw it in neutral and turn sharply. The front and read axels should bind as the front wheels try to turn faster then the back. The truck should come to a stop and feel like the brakes are on. It will put a lot of stress on the clutch.
I've done this with mine and got some binding but not enough to stop the truck or cause a wheel to skip.

Just to confirm. What I'm going to do is remove the rear drive shaft. Then drive in 4wd hi. Effectively front wheel drive. Give it some gas from a dead stop, any slippage will be obvious.

First, this discussion should be in its own thread.

Second, when the truck comes to a stop, the clutch will return to minimum duty cycle and will unlock the case.

Third, removing the rear driveshaft is a bad idea because with the case unlocked (which occurs when the clutch duty cycle returns to minimum, or when you turn the key off) , if you place the vehicle in Park, there is nothing to keep it from rolling.
 






scottdanny22

I have tried evcerything I can think of I had a rebuilt transmission put in 2600.00 ouch and now the auto and low 4x4 lights flash 6 times every 2 minutes and it only engages for 30 seconds then the lights flash and no more 4x4 this is on my 1995 eddiebauer ford explorer 4 door 4x4 selector swithch says 2wd 4lo and 4 high its a 4.0 v6
 






That sounds to me like a faulty Hall effect speed sensor on the T-case. If the GEM gets bad data, it gets confused, displays the trouble code (blinking lights) and defaults to 2wd. Btw. On a 95 you should have 2wd, 4wd Auto and 4wd low. To get 4wd hi you'll need to do the brown wire mod. It's well worth it though.

Gijoecam: you were right! I set my multimeter on the brown wire and drove around. The TCC voltage does not get above 11vdc until about 5mph. I know 98's did not do this but my 2000 does! I supplied 12vdc directly to the TCC and it locked. Did the low speed tight turn and it came to a fast stop and got the rear tire to skip.
 



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I tried the hard turn in 4wd hi and lo and neutral and really didnt get any slowing of the truck. So I am still not sure if the T Case clutch is holding under load. I started a new thread on this but go no replies. Any other suggestions as to how to test the T case clutch? Can they be inspected if I pull the T case off?
 






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