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(2nd gen)98 explorer LOWERED and aggressive

I have a lowered 98 explorer awd, (2 inches) What's the most aggressive wheel set up wheel size,width,offset,backspacing? Considering 18s or 19s as this will be for street/drag. I want to get as much width as possible without rubbing front and rear as well. Not running slicks more like nitto 888r or something similar because I want to still corner lol....
 



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Fix4Dirt

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I have a lowered 98 explorer awd, (2 inches) What's the most aggressive wheel set up wheel size,width,offset,backspacing? Considering 18s or 19s as this will be for street/drag. I want to get as much width as possible without rubbing front and rear as well. Not running slicks more like nitto 888r or something similar because I want to still corner lol....
every X is different... other than that got no clue about lowered ones 🤣 come to the dark side and lift er!!! kidding wont try to convert ya!

this one is somewhat similiar to ya setup Post the pics of your wheels here!!! STREET TRUCKS!!!
 






Whacka

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every X is different... other than that got no clue about lowered ones 🤣 come to the dark side and lift er!!! kidding wont try to convert ya!

this one is somewhat similiar to ya setup Post the pics of your wheels here!!! STREET TRUCKS!!!
I feel like you might be the only active person on this forum LOL. Lifting a street beast kills performance ha! Next step on my explorer after I finish the turbo/engine I will be saving up to coil over swap it with a 4 link which will also make it 2-3 inches lower. Frame is getting some cutting and welding along with tubs.
 






CDW6212R

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Try to borrow a Mustang wheel and tire from 1995-04, the offset on those is fairly close to the limit of what will fit these trucks. My first wheel combination was a Cobra wheel(17x8 and 30mm offset), with 255/60/17's. Those are an easy fit, but can use a 1/4" spacer to move them out a little.

So the ideal offset is not 30mm, likely no more than 25mm. But the wheel width pushes the limit up front the most, 9" is hard to fit in front without a perfect offset, and tire below 275mm etc.

I have some Volk Racing GTC's that are 17x9's and 16mm offset, they will take some machining to make work. But they stick out a bit more than most people would like, the offset should ideally be in the 20mm or so range. These would be fine on a truck with the wide OEM flares, but mine has no flares. So I bought some used front flares from a 2nd gen with the smaller flares with running boards. I've got 275/55/17" tires, I was trying for 18's but never found wheels in that size.

Volk Wheels - Gt-C gunmetal 18x9-36.JPG
 






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Also note with wide tires, you will have to tie back the parking brake cable, or relocated it if you have the 302. That was rubbing on my 255mm tires before I had spacers. That cable is too close to the left rear tire, but it clears the stock tires fine.
 






Whacka

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Try to borrow a Mustang wheel and tire from 1995-04, the offset on those is fairly close to the limit of what will fit these trucks. My first wheel combination was a Cobra wheel(17x8 and 30mm offset), with 255/60/17's. Those are an easy fit, but can use a 1/4" spacer to move them out a little.

So the ideal offset is not 30mm, likely no more than 25mm. But the wheel width pushes the limit up front the most, 9" is hard to fit in front without a perfect offset, and tire below 275mm etc.

I have some Volk Racing GTC's that are 17x9's and 16mm offset, they will take some machining to make work. But they stick out a bit more than most people would like, the offset should ideally be in the 20mm or so range. These would be fine on a truck with the wide OEM flares, but mine has no flares. So I bought some used front flares from a 2nd gen with the smaller flares with running boards. I've got 275/55/17" tires, I was trying for 18's but never found wheels in that size.

View attachment 431270
I would like to try to run 9 inch up front but I am going to be tucked into the fender. Sounds like I will be forced into running 8.5 front and 9 inch in the rear unless I can find someone that has run 10 inch in the rear with the wheel tucked up. what have you gotten to fit in the rear?
 






Mbrooks420

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If you’re going to notch and tub it, just wait and tub it to whatever width you want.
 






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I have 18x8.5's on my Mercury now, I'm on my third set of tires. I began with 265/60's, then 255/60s, and last the 255/55/18's. The rear has a little extra room if you move the cable, and more if you could limit the side to side movement of the rear(cornering). This below is with 35mm offset wheels and 6.35mm spacers, 265/60/18 tires;

Moven 18x8.5 72lbs 005_edited.jpg
 






Fix4Dirt

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I feel like you might be the only active person on this forum LOL. Lifting a street beast kills performance ha! Next step on my explorer after I finish the turbo/engine I will be saving up to coil over swap it with a 4 link which will also make it 2-3 inches lower. Frame is getting some cutting and welding along with tubs.
lol! no theres tons of other people! this is what happens when im at home too long 😂spebt the past few days detailin all my rigs and the lawn so now im takin it easy but its back to life as usual today!
 






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Come do my yard, I've got three to take care of, and no time.
 






Fix4Dirt

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Whacka

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Also note with wide tires, you will have to tie back the parking brake cable, or relocated it if you have the 302. That was rubbing on my 255mm tires before I had spacers. That cable is too close to the left rear tire, but it clears the stock tires fine.
My parking brake doesn't work anyway lol been too lazy to fix it lately but I think I will fix it and relocate it since I'll have to relocate it anyway
I have 18x8.5's on my Mercury now, I'm on my third set of tires. I began with 265/60's, then 255/60s, and last the 255/55/18's. The rear has a little extra room if you move the cable, and more if you could limit the side to side movement of the rear(cornering). This below is with 35mm offset wheels and 6.35mm spacers, 265/60/18 tires;

View attachment 431271
do you have any shots down the side to see the poke?
 






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Let me see, it's fairly close in both front and rear.
Moven 18x8.5 72lbs 008.jpg
 






Whacka

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Let me see, it's fairly close in both front and rear.
View attachment 431275
looks pretty dam close to what I want, I'm probably removing my fender flares and having someone make me some without the running board connection bit because I ripped the boards off since I live in michigan and it will cause major rust issues. Do you know the backspacing and total offset? I think what you said makes it 28.35mm offset? hows the clearance on the inside? sorry for badgering you with questions. Stock wheels are funny and all but I need more performance to put the power down sooner than later
 






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These wheels have 35mm offset, and the spacers are 1/4", so about 28.65mm yes, and 8.5" wide. The rear wheel track is narrower than the front, so it always can use an extra outward spacing, around 3/8" or so by my guess. These clear fully inboard, but the taller 30.5" tires rubbed the inner fenders(top of it) because of the lowering, and the inner fender is plastic with ribs hanging down a bit. The upper BJ is the closest object, not counting the right side OEM UCA that is two piece(the bolts and ends stick out more), that has to go. The tires may touch the sway bar at full lock depending on the wheel and tire size. That's where the offset and tire profile, the height, all matters, but touching the sway bar is minor. I don't think my 255/55/18 tires(29") touched anything at all.


I'd like a 30" tire, but due to the 17" wheels I found, 29" is where I'm at unless some 18" wheels turn up cheap and I feel like changing(doubtful).
 






Whacka

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These wheels have 35mm offset, and the spacers are 1/4", so about 28.65mm yes, and 8.5" wide. The rear wheel track is narrower than the front, so it always can use an extra outward spacing, around 3/8" or so by my guess. These clear fully inboard, but the taller 30.5" tires rubbed the inner fenders(top of it) because of the lowering, and the inner fender is plastic with ribs hanging down a bit. The upper BJ is the closest object, not counting the right side OEM UCA that is two piece(the bolts and ends stick out more), that has to go. The tires may touch the sway bar at full lock depending on the wheel and tire size. That's where the offset and tire profile, the height, all matters, but touching the sway bar is minor. I don't think my 255/55/18 tires(29") touched anything at all.


I'd like a 30" tire, but due to the 17" wheels I found, 29" is where I'm at unless some 18" wheels turn up cheap and I feel like changing(doubtful).
how much lower is yours from stock?
 






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I have the Explorer Express X-Spec kit on it, which is a 2 3/8" lowering block in the rear, and the front is at least 2.5" lower, I think just shy of 3" down from stock.

BTW, check with a good alignment shop, it may be very hard to lower your truck given the random specs of the UCA mounting frame brackets. Some won't allow much lowering before the camber goes very bad. My other two 98's and my 99 are like that, I have them down barely below stock, the camber get's negative fast on those. My Mountaineer I could go lower than it is, my shop had no trouble where I had it when I took it to them.
 






donalds

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I'm thinking of lowering my truck

Bet she would have even more fun
And look good to
 






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^ DO IT buddy. You can always go back up. ;)

But you won't because it handles SO much bettah and safer too.

Some hesitate to lower because of decreased payload capacity. I hauled 600 pounds of a cut up metal trailer to the dump in my four foot bed without issue, although I was one inch from the rear bump stops and the front was very high. Just drove slow and went over bumps carefully.

I'll NEVER go back to stock ride height.

DSC08493.JPG
 



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Whacka

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`
I have the Explorer Express X-Spec kit on it, which is a 2 3/8" lowering block in the rear, and the front is at least 2.5" lower, I think just shy of 3" down from stock.

BTW, check with a good alignment shop, it may be very hard to lower your truck given the random specs of the UCA mounting frame brackets. Some won't allow much lowering before the camber goes very bad. My other two 98's and my 99 are like that, I have them down barely below stock, the camber get's negative fast on those. My Mountaineer I could go lower than it is, my shop had no trouble where I had it when I took it to them.
too late, If I could attach an image I'd show you. She's been lowered for about a year now. Check the build page I just started I guess since attaching images is beyond me on a forum.

 






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