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2nd Gen Coil Sprung SAS Idea Thread


There are a few of us pretty close to doing this. However we are all stuck on some of the same issues. I thought it woul dbe nice to use this as a brainstorming area and to answer each others questions instead of changing the topics in other threads.

First off I am planning the SAS with a Dana 44 from a 76 Bronco. I have purchased this axle and all its extras, (ie: steering linkage, trac bar, radious arms...) now I gotta get it under the X! I haven't planned too much out yet other than what axle. I would like to stay under 8" of total lift and run 35s. I can use the frame and bumpstops as leverage instead of height to clear them all together. Things I still need to figure out...

- What buckets to use
- What springs to use (not been done so tough to say what springs to use to get the appropriate lift and flex like a mother)
- How many shocks to use (thinking two RS 9000 on each side - depends on what sprigs too)
- Steering?
- How to set up radious arms for maximum droop and no tire rubbing - have been thinking if it is possible to put heim joints on them? If not I guess I can wrist them.
- How not to screw up the braking - I know ABS will be gone but what about the computer will it be confused?
- and other things here and there...
-
 


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Xplodor

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I'm planning on a custom D44 Currie front axle. As soon as I finish all my other mods. :rolleyes: (taking forever)
 




soupbone

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Gawd I priced currie and they cost like $3.5k+! Id have to go used and rebuilt. So besides local yards and such... does anybody know of a place online that sells axles?
 




soupbone

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Question....Is it possible to run coilovers with just radius arms or do you need to run 4 link? What length/travel C/Os do people run in front?
 




CoryL

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Coilovers are merely a space saving and more adjustabvle way of your normal coil and shock setup.

The length, diameter, etc of coilover all depends on your setup. Solid axle rock crawler vs. desert racer. So on and so forth.

There isn't one magical "one size fits all" setup.


Dave,

I should be getting to Josh's coil sprung SAS here in a little while so I'll let you know how everythign works out.
 




Ranger Digger

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Originally posted by taxxman2k


- What buckets to use
- What springs to use (not been done so tough to say what springs to use to get the appropriate lift and flex like a mother)
- How many shocks to use (thinking two RS 9000 on each side - depends on what sprigs too)
- Steering?
-

* RangerG and I used buckets off a 78 bronco. There are similar buckets from lots of ford trucks from that era. They work well if you are planning on using either wild horse or JB VR coils. We had to cut the botton 2 or 3 inches off the coil bucket and weld in a new flange, also on the driver's side we use a 3/8 plate as a spacer to achieve proper frame clearance and buckect positioning. This was on a first gen X, but I used to have a '99 ranger and I was planning on using the same buckets for that SAS swap, because they are plentiful and easily adaptable.

* As for shock mounts, F-250 seem to work well. My coil buckets that I'm going to use for my SAS this summer have a shock mount already on them. They came off a '76 F-150.
* For steering, I plan on using chevy tierods and DOM tubing for strengh and relibility. I think tie rod over or under is a matter of preference, but tie rod under is easier since you don't have to deal with trac bar interference on the EB axles.
I was going to adapt a pre 98 ranger steering box, but after thinking about it, I would use an EB style box that mounts outside the frame rail and weld up a custom steering shaft.
 




Hotweels

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Hmmm i found these pics and thought they may help a bit S10 on 38"s rollover granted its not a X but it goes to show that anything is possible when it comes to SFA coils,
I was at the shop when they had just bolted the diff to the coils, they had to build coil mounts on the frame outta plate steel and if i remember right they used procomp jeep coils.
That is a EB D44 under that thing 24" of lift with a low pinion D44 and no vibration so carefull mocking the EB diffs OK? :D BTW i think the reason that it rolled (besides going to fast) had to do with 24" of lift and no fender trimming to make the 38"s fit.:rolleyes:
 




taxx

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Re: Re: 2nd Gen Coil Sprung SAS Idea Thread

Originally posted by Ranger Digger
* RangerG and I used buckets off a 78 bronco. There are similar buckets from lots of ford trucks from that era. They work well if you are planning on using either wild horse or JB VR coils. We had to cut the botton 2 or 3 inches off the coil bucket and weld in a new flange, also on the driver's side we use a 3/8 plate as a spacer to achieve proper frame clearance and buckect positioning. This was on a first gen X, but I used to have a '99 ranger and I was planning on using the same buckets for that SAS swap, because they are plentiful and easily adaptable.

* As for shock mounts, F-250 seem to work well. My coil buckets that I'm going to use for my SAS this summer have a shock mount already on them. They came off a '76 F-150.
* For steering, I plan on using chevy tierods and DOM tubing for strengh and relibility. I think tie rod over or under is a matter of preference, but tie rod under is easier since you don't have to deal with trac bar interference on the EB axles.
I was going to adapt a pre 98 ranger steering box, but after thinking about it, I would use an EB style box that mounts outside the frame rail and weld up a custom steering shaft.

Your buckets and shock mount idea seems pretty common. What springs did you use and how where they flex wise. I think the single or dual shock decsion will be based on the springs I use and hw they flex. If they are soft and really springy I might need 2 shocks on each side to keep sway down.
 




RangerG

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I used 3.5" WH VR coils. They flex very well but a wristed radius arm is needed in order to take full advantage of there flex. I am planing on making a wristed arm real soon.
 




Ranger Digger

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To add to that, dual shocks would be a good idea if you plan on driving fast over rough terrain or have heavy tires, the VR coils are pretty soft and that lends them to a lot of movement which needs to be controled. Most importantly, you have to base the decision on what kind of driver you are. (aggressiveness, ride preference)
 




soupbone

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So the 3.5" coils on a explorer = 6" lift?

5.5" coils = about 8" lift?

I think read this from muddwhores SAS review.

So I guess maybe 4" coils would be good middle ground for ummmm 6.5" to 7"? I think 6" would be minimum. Its obvious the IFS crossmember has to be cut out and a new one fabbed in. I think CoryL already has a design.
 




taxx

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Well these stats are on a first gen. The second gen fram rales sit lower than first gen so it also depends on where you mount the buckets.


And I am an aggressive driver so dual shocks will proly end up being the way I go.
 




taxx

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Next question. I have seen some people comment (on other vehicles) that they have probems with the tires rubbing in turns on the radious arms. Is this gonna be a problem for me?


Next: How hard is it to wrist the arms or should I have someone do it for me?
 








TarHeel085

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Originally posted by taxxman2k
Next question. I have seen some people comment (on other vehicles) that they have probems with the tires rubbing in turns on the radious arms. Is this gonna be a problem for me?


Next: How hard is it to wrist the arms or should I have someone do it for me?
i thought that was only for swampers? cause of the big lugs.
 




JoshC

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What exactly does wristed mean?

Dave, why wouldn't you consider using some trac bars, like the jeeps use. One up top, one on the bottom. Wouldn't that allow for flex? That is what Cory will be doing to my truck.

Happy trails!!
 




Rick

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Tri County Gear is MUCH less expensive than Currie. I have one and have been very pleased.

Once the ABS computer is disconnected the brake system performs just like a normal system. I haven't had any problems with my braking system and all of the ABS hydraulic equipment is still attached, just not functonal.
 




Rick

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Here is a photo of Diff Whack Daddy's wristed arm:



 


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taxx

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Doesn't look like he has too much rubbing.

As for why am I using these... Becuase when I bought the axle he threw in all that stuff. And it has been used over and over again on so many trucks becuase it works well. Wristing the arm hinges them down near the axle for more flex.

I just don't see anysence in modifying it too much more than I have to since it works. If I could afford to go with coil overs all the way around then we would be talking different, but I think I will be very pleased with this setup if I take my time, do it right and make it look clean. I am hoping I will have so much flex that I will have to modify the rear to flex more....:D
 




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