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2nd Gen Coil Sprung SAS Idea Thread


There are a few of us pretty close to doing this. However we are all stuck on some of the same issues. I thought it woul dbe nice to use this as a brainstorming area and to answer each others questions instead of changing the topics in other threads.

First off I am planning the SAS with a Dana 44 from a 76 Bronco. I have purchased this axle and all its extras, (ie: steering linkage, trac bar, radious arms...) now I gotta get it under the X! I haven't planned too much out yet other than what axle. I would like to stay under 8" of total lift and run 35s. I can use the frame and bumpstops as leverage instead of height to clear them all together. Things I still need to figure out...

- What buckets to use
- What springs to use (not been done so tough to say what springs to use to get the appropriate lift and flex like a mother)
- How many shocks to use (thinking two RS 9000 on each side - depends on what sprigs too)
- Steering?
- How to set up radious arms for maximum droop and no tire rubbing - have been thinking if it is possible to put heim joints on them? If not I guess I can wrist them.
- How not to screw up the braking - I know ABS will be gone but what about the computer will it be confused?
- and other things here and there...
-
 


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JoshC

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Cory, is that different as in better for more flex i hope!

are you going to be home around 9ish, i'd like to talk to you about a few things, actually it is pretty important.

Happy trails!!
 


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taxx

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Originally posted by JoshC
Cory, is that different as in better for more flex i hope!

are you going to be home around 9ish, i'd like to talk to you about a few things, actually it is pretty important.

Happy trails!!

I would be interested in know how yours is going to be set up.
 




CoryL

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Josh's is going to resemble the Rubicon Express Long arm kit almost to a T since the mounts are built into the D30 TJ housing already.

Why fix what ain't broken?

Yes Josh, I will be home. Please call my home phone.

Dave,

I think welding tube to add a heim is a total waste of time. The advantage comes from the wrist, no so much the bushing.
 




CoryL

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Originally posted by taxxman2k
EDIT: read more of that thread it is almost a waste of time just to filter through the BS and flaming. Guess I'll just have to learn by trial and error. ANd seeing other pics.

Seriously Dave...Trial and error isn't the best way to learn when you are driving on the street.

Pics are nice, but you really have to know some concepts before you start screwing with things.

This really applies to custom suspension setups and not so much to EB radius arms, but knowing the principles is really helpful.

I wouldn't try reading that thread in one sitting. Try reading a little bit each day. Sorting through the BS is tough, but the info in there is INVALUABLE!
 




taxx

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Originally posted by CoryL
Seriously Dave...Trial and error isn't the best way to learn when you are driving on the street.

Pics are nice, but you really have to know some concepts before you start screwing with things.

This really applies to custom suspension setups and not so much to EB radius arms, but knowing the principles is really helpful.

I wouldn't try reading that thread in one sitting. Try reading a little bit each day. Sorting through the BS is tough, but the info in there is INVALUABLE!

When I said that I didn't really mean it :), Cory, you have provided me with tons of info, and yes I am going to continue reading it and researching. I won't go at this half assed. It is going to be right.


I think welding tube to add a heim is a total waste of time. The advantage comes from the wrist, no so much the bushing.
You don't think it would hold up better than the bushing does?
 








Hotweels

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I think dollar for dollar your better off just useing 1 wristed arm, its cheap and it works very well.
 




CoryL

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Originally posted by taxxman2k
When I said that I didn't really mean it :), Cory, you have provided me with tons of info, and yes I am going to continue reading it and researching. I won't go at this half assed. It is going to be right.


You don't think it would hold up better than the bushing does?

Dollar for Dollar, probably. The sized heim you want I sell for $50, plus the jam nut, misalignment spacers, and weld in adapter = ~$90 for one setup. You'd need two.
 




Hotweels

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I can get a wristed arm custom built by one of the local 4x4 club members for $250 cdn so say $150 usd for a bolt in piece, look around local i am sure you can find it that price or cheaper exchange.
 




taxx

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Originally posted by CoryL
Dollar for Dollar, probably. The sized heim you want I sell for $50, plus the jam nut, misalignment spacers, and weld in adapter = ~$90 for one setup. You'd need two.

I am still thinking I might rather go that route than deal with the rubber bushings. To me it seams more professional and a sturdier setup, correct me if I am wrong.
 




CoryL

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This is business suicide, but I'm being honest.

It isn't any more "professional" or "sturdy" to go with a heim over the Ford Factory designed bushing setup, in your situation.

If you were building custom radius arms from the get-go or a custom linked suspension, heim joints would be the way.

If you really want to do it, I can sell you the parts to do so, but I think it is unneccessary.
 




taxx

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Originally posted by CoryL
This is business suicide, but I'm being honest.

It isn't any more "professional" or "sturdy" to go with a heim over the Ford Factory designed bushing setup, in your situation.

If you were building custom radius arms from the get-go or a custom linked suspension, heim joints would be the way.

If you really want to do it, I can sell you the parts to do so, but I think it is unneccessary.

Your as bad as me. I tell people crap like that all the time. I still got lots to learn and lots of reading to do so who knows what will come about by the time I get started. Mainthing is a fully functional SAS that is street safe, it isn't my DD but sometimes I like to drive it on teh street.
 




taxx

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Thanks for all your help guys. I am well on my way to something. I got the axle today and she is beautiful and so many other things are coming together and I am understanding it better.

Things I still have to research:

Steering - making new steering links, getting a shaft to work
C-Bushings - figuring out what bushings to get for the 6 - 8 degrees
Breaks - how to go from 2 lines at the master cylinder to one line on the axle. - this should be easy.

And deciding on so many other parts such as coils, buckets and how many shocks to run.
 




taxx

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well I am back. I have a question. I have spent a considerable amount of time researching caster and I think I understand it. Somewhere between 3 and 5 degrees towards the back. My question is this.....

With the caster set 4 degrees or so back the pinion yoke is pointing straight back. (this is just playing on the floor in my garage). Don't you want the exit of the pumpkin to be pointing more towards the t-case?

I have searched and searched and this one still boggles my mind, anyone hav eany insite? The next issue is deciding what c-bushings to use, but I think that has to wait till I see where it will all fit together.:confused:
 




JoshC

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I always thought you had the pinion pointing at the tcase too, that's what i've heard anyways. I know Cory had Robbs pointed strait toward the tcase. Sorry i couldn't help you anymore Dave.

Happy trails!!
 




CoryL

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Pinion angle depends on the driveshaft you plan on using.

Single Cardan setup: Pinion needs to be at the same angle as the t-case. i.e. If the t-case is pointing 5deg down, the pinion needs to be pointed 5deg up. This keeps the u-joints "in phase."

Double Cardan setup (also sometimes referred to CV style): This is the one where there are two joints at the one end of the driveshaft. With this setup, the pinion needs to be pointed directly at the t-case. Again, this is for proper u-joint phasing.
 




jeffseal

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does the explorer have single or double cardan setup.

also if you point/aim the yoke at the transfer case wont the tierod and drag link be at to much anle, toward the ground?
 




taxx

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Explorer has single. Front is a different type of CV that you don't want to use with the solid axle setup anyway. I am gonna try to stick with the old single setup. Thanks for the clarification Cory, I was concerened that maybe it wasn't quite up far enough, but I think it will work. 4 degrees or so of caster doesn't require the axle to pivot too much rear.

Now to get this thing under there so I can figure out what c-bushings I need. Going to order some parts tomorrow, will be ready to start first of March.:D :confused: :confused: :confused: :D
 




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