2nd Gen Coil Sprung SAS Idea Thread

JoshC · January 22, 2003

So, will the wristing allow the radius arm to move up and down. I don't understand the 1st gen setup cause i've never really looked at it. Seems like the bushing would seriously limit travel.

Happy trails!!

taxx · January 22, 2003

The bushing does. The wristing puts a joint in the arm near the axle that alows the end to fold down like your wrist does allowing the axle to drop further. I now I am not explainging it very well.

JoshC · January 23, 2003

Okay, i see now. I was looking for something uptoward the bushing like that. That looks pretty good now that i know. Is this job something you are going to do yourself Dave meaning the SAS?

Happy trails!!

soupbone · January 23, 2003

steering

Ok i have seen the scout box I think on the skunk swap. Its mounted on the outside... Is there a box that could mount on the inside frame rail? Is there enough space? The angle of the shaft seems tricky from the pic I saw....

CoryL · January 23, 2003

Re: steering

Originally posted by soupbone
Ok i have seen the scout box I think on the skunk swap. Its mounted on the outside... Is there a box that could mount on the inside frame rail? Is there enough space? The angle of the shaft seems tricky from the pic I saw....

With the frame being so short, the radiator where it is, and the frame not recessed (like in TTBed vehicles), it is almost impossible to get a steering box inside the frame.

I contemplated running a YJ steering box, because it mounts to a bracket that bolts to the frame, but I would have had to move the radiator in Robb's Ex and the steering shaft being a little more difficult seemed like a better option.

taxx · January 23, 2003

Originally posted by JoshC
Okay, i see now. I was looking for something uptoward the bushing like that. That looks pretty good now that i know. Is this job something you are going to do yourself Dave meaning the SAS?

Happy trails!!

Yes. I plan on doing it myself. Shouldn't be too bad.

So it is sounding like a scout steering box is the way to go. Gotta start looking around for one.

soupbone · January 27, 2003

Found new knuckles.. kinda expensive but theyre high steer. Would these work with a used EB housing?

http://www.partsmikeparts.com/Dana44.htm

CoryL · January 28, 2003

To my knowledge, any D44 balljoint knuckle will "bolt up" to any D44 balljoint inner knuckle.

Just make sure you get the correct spindles to bolt to the knuckles, rotors, and calipers as well.

soupbone · January 29, 2003

questions

I was thinking about buying a used HP44 housing from a yard and clean it up a bit myself. What is the best way to remove surface rust from a used housing? Maybe just buy some cans of rustoleum or whatever and paint it black.

I found a shop that can shorten it and install gear/locker for a resonable price too. I assume id need a master rebuild kit or the show would supply it. I would just have to drop it off.

Would it be possible to cut down a full size axle to EB size and just use EB sized shafts?

taxx · January 29, 2003

Best and fastest way to clean up that rust is to have it sand blasted.

And yes you can shorten it to EB size, just make sure in the end both sides are the length they need to be.

CoryL · January 29, 2003

I'd either stay full width or go EB width.

That way if you ever bust a shaft you don't have to wait for new custom ones every time.

Hotweels · January 30, 2003

here is some good info on ford D44 diffs for anyone interested D44 info From what i can tell a Hi pinion F150 or Bronco D44 (fullwidth) will have to be cut 6" to accept a early bronco long shaft but after you see a EB shaft beside a F150 or FS Bronco you will think shortining is a way better way to go (mmmm beefy shafts) I am building a 77 F150 diff to go into my X right now and sharing the garage with a guy who is rebuilding a 74 EB i have put the shafts side by side and measured 4 or 5 times so i can almost guarantee that its the right measurement (a 32nd aint gonna hurt) besides fullsize shafts have the 5-297x U-joints i cant for the life of me see the 4.0 V6 breaking that shaft unless yer doing something crazy.
I will stop rambeling now and go to bed, maybe i should do a write up on my swap when i have some more time?.

CoryL · January 30, 2003

Originally posted by Hotweels
besides fullsize shafts have the 5-297x U-joints i cant for the life of me see the 4.0 V6 breaking that shaft unless yer doing something crazy.

The aftermarket alloy shafts for EBs use the 297 joint as well.

As for the 4.0L breaking anything....

With the right gearing and tires you can blow them up easily.

The 297 is the same joint that the D35 TTB uses. I know people that blow them up with 33s and a 2.9L.

Robb · January 30, 2003

Also, Dana/Spicer has stopped producing the X297. They have been replaced with the X760 (I think that is the number). Off-Road mag tested both and found the new style 10 times more durable. Not 10 times as strong, just more durable.

Robb

Hotweels · January 30, 2003

The aftermarket alloy shafts for EBs use the 297 joint as well.

Yes i know

As for the 4.0L breaking anything....With the right gearing and tires you can blow them up easily.

True but its less of a issue with a 4.0 than half my buddys with 38"s 351 power and 4.10's
It's been said many times before it all depends how you drive, but for most people the stock stuff (D44 that is)will work great and outlast the rest of the stuff on the truck. The sole reason i am doing my swap is simplicity but if you have the money ($800 ish i think) for alloy shafts and CTM's all the power to you but if you are a grassroots shade tree howler monkey redneck mechanic who has more bills than money and only uses the 4x4 when camping and such then i would say run the stock D44 stuff and if it breaks then re-evaluate what you have and what you want to do. Not trying to pick a fight CoryL just adding my .02 take it or leave it

JoshC · January 30, 2003

Originally posted by Hotweels
a grassroots shade tree howler monkey redneck mechanic

Ha that is great!

Happy trails!!

taxx · January 31, 2003

I hear people and see people doing these things and they talk alot about dropped brackets for the radious arms and I see some pretty low. Is this necessary?

CoryL · January 31, 2003

Originally posted by taxxman2k
I hear people and see people doing these things and they talk alot about dropped brackets for the radious arms and I see some pretty low. Is this necessary?

Depends on how much caster you want to run.

The height of those brackets along with the c-bushings will determine the caster.

CoryL · January 31, 2003

Originally posted by Hotweels
Yes i know

True but its less of a issue with a 4.0 than half my buddys with 38"s 351 power and 4.10's

If he is running that setup with a D44 he must be good at axleshaft swapping!

...but if you are a grassroots shade tree howler monkey redneck mechanic who has more bills than money and only uses the 4x4 when camping and such then i would say run the stock D44 stuff and if it breaks then re-evaluate what you have and what you want to do. Not trying to pick a fight CoryL just adding my .02 take it or leave it [/B]

If you are doing a D44 swap for camping you are putting forth a lot of time and money for gains you won't even see.

I agree with the break it first comment. What I will re-iterate is that too tall of a tire with too low of a gear and lockers on/in a D44 with a 4.0L is just a matter of time before a joint and/or shaft grenades.

taxx · January 31, 2003

OK so how does caster affect a 4x4? I can only find info on race cars. What is recomended? How dow these run stock? I would like these to mount way up at the frame, would a solution be to make new radious arms with a different setup?

2nd Gen Coil Sprung SAS Idea Thread

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