How to: - 2nd gen console removal | Page 5 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

How to: 2nd gen console removal

Prefix for threads which are instructional.
Can anyone send me instructions on how to replace the console armrest on a 2011 Ford Ranger 4 dr Sport?
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Center console removal

Tools required
1/4" ratchet
extensions (optional but very helpful)
8mm socket
10mm socket
magnetic pickup
wood block
hand sledge (or big hammer)

Step 1
Remove tissue box-coin holder


Step 2
remove the cubbyhole compartment by pulling up and toward you

Remove_cubbyhole.jpg


Step 3
remove cup holder piece

remove_cupholder.jpg


Step 4
Remove 2-8mm bolts
loosen the 10mm connector retaining bolt.
Disconnect this connector and route up under the heater controls to move it out of the way temporarily.

Console_dash_bolts.jpg


Step 5
Remove 2-8mm bolts in the console. These are threaded into the transmission hump

hump_bolts.jpg




Step 6
use a wood block against the metal bracket, and hit hard with a hammer toward rear until the console moves back about 2 inches. Note how the rear legs ( or feet ) go under metal tabs in the hump for re assembly

Spot_to_hit.jpg


To help a stubborn one get out-
If you look real close--at the bottom edge of the console toward the rear is a small cut out--raised edges area. You can get a screwdriver up in there and press upwards on the release tabs, then push the console back toward rear of truck.




# View attachment 195123


Installation is reverse of removal.

For a more in depth procedure--go here for seat and interior panel removal. This will help you deal with the carpet without cutting it.
Great explanation. Also on my '96 bank one sensor 1 I accessed the O2 sensor with the SHORTEST O2 socket in my kit (22 mm I think- bought from Advance Auto and only had three O2 sensor socket HOWEVER the longest one restricted me from being able to attach my ratcheting breaker bar). I removed the sensor from under the truck.
I DID take J's advice and removed the center console to access the electrical connection. There was no other way for me because a few years ago I zip-tied the connector high up on top of the bell housing to keep the wire off the exhaust pipe (because I didn't know what I was doing- I should have used the little Christmas tree sensor holder and plugged it back where it belonged. Soooooo if you have a second gen that has not been molested you probably could do the whole thing from under the truck. Good luck. Thank to J.
 






Center console removal

Tools required
1/4" ratchet
extensions (optional but very helpful)
8mm socket
10mm socket
magnetic pickup
wood block
hand sledge (or big hammer)

Step 1
Remove tissue box-coin holder


Step 2
remove the cubbyhole compartment by pulling up and toward you

Remove_cubbyhole.jpg


Step 3
remove cup holder piece

remove_cupholder.jpg


Step 4
Remove 2-8mm bolts
loosen the 10mm connector retaining bolt.
Disconnect this connector and route up under the heater controls to move it out of the way temporarily.

Console_dash_bolts.jpg


Step 5
Remove 2-8mm bolts in the console. These are threaded into the transmission hump

hump_bolts.jpg




Step 6
use a wood block against the metal bracket, and hit hard with a hammer toward rear until the console moves back about 2 inches. Note how the rear legs ( or feet ) go under metal tabs in the hump for re assembly

Spot_to_hit.jpg


To help a stubborn one get out-
If you look real close--at the bottom edge of the console toward the rear is a small cut out--raised edges area. You can get a screwdriver up in there and press upwards on the release tabs, then push the console back toward rear of truck.




# View attachment 195123


Installation is reverse of removal.

For a more in depth procedure--go here for seat and interior panel removal. This will help you deal with the carpet without cutting it.
This right here is what i needed to know. I drive a 95 xlt and its got the full size center console and im trying to get the ventilation in the back seat to work again. I was wondering is there a second Blower motor in that thing? or is the whole ventilation powered by the motor under the hood and its just an acuator door thats keeping the back vents from blowing air?
 






This right here is what i needed to know. I drive a 95 xlt and its got the full size center console and im trying to get the ventilation in the back seat to work again. I was wondering is there a second Blower motor in that thing? or is the whole ventilation powered by the motor under the hood and its just an acuator door thats keeping the back vents from blowing air?
in my 98, theres another blower in the high series console. its somewhere around underneath the kleenex box, just a tad bit more forward afaik. its been a while 🤣
 






in my 98, theres another blower in the high series console. its somewhere around underneath the kleenex box, just a tad bit more forward afaik. its been a while 🤣
thanks for that info. ill take a look. i think mine is a high series console as it does have vents on the top part of the center console. and if its really around the area u said it is, i might not have to remove the whole thing entirely. to see what no air is coming through the vents.
 






thanks for that info. ill take a look. i think mine is a high series console as it does have vents on the top part of the center console. and if its really around the area u said it is, i might not have to remove the whole thing entirely. to see what no air is coming through the vents.
i feel like it was right around there, i feel like it was forward of the kleenex box. if not it was under it. my memory is kind of fuzzy on that 🤣
 






So it's just the 2 bolts up by the dash and the two in this picture to remove before whacking with the BFH? and the harness connector bolt...
console hump bolts.PNG
 






So it's just the 2 bolts up by the dash and the two in this picture to remove before whacking with the BFH? and the harness connector bolt...
View attachment 449690
Also, check the metal tabs at rear floor of console. 2 tabs lock into channels in the floor. A thin screwdriver will get in there to push them down. Have d to see them though.
It'll help unlock the console, less whacks with hammer
 






Can I get to them from the rear of the console? My seats are staying in for now. I'll read back through this in the a.m. Thanks.
 






Nice! Thanks for doing this, it took me forever to remove mine the first time, I took apart so much stuff before I figured it out. I had pretty good luck just pulling mine backwards from the back seat, but if a person was to have a bad back, that wouldn't work.
Sorry, but I've been a tech for many, MANY years. All makes. All models. Now, that certainly doesn't mean I know it all because I sure as heck don't. But, I know a lot. I'm not a greenhorn. I'm not stupid. AND I pay attention to details. For some reason in all these years I've never had a reason or a need to remove the center console until I recently picked one up for very cheap to use as a camping vehicle. I like it a lot. However, mice seems to have gotten into some areas and the center console under area is one and your guide does NOT work for me. I've done everything I know to do so I went to the interwebs, lol, and basically you have this same guide in several places. It does not work. Something is missing. Something is STILL holding it in place and knocking it with a hammer and wood block only resulted in busting off the ECM plastic retention bracket which you failed to note needs to be disconnected from both the main assembly AND the dash bracket.

Not sure why this was correct for everybody else and not mine, but I 100% assure you that I've done all you outlined, and all that is outlined in my Alldata, and it is fing wrong. It does not even budge. It "shivers", but it does not budge. So you are missing something, I don't know what, but something, from this guide. And people ought to know that. Mine is an XLT but I doubt that makes any difference. There clearly is something, and it might be very minor, but your guide, is NOT accurate for removal due to missing some parts that must be required since I've done them all and it does not move at fing all.
 






Back
Top