2nd gen SAS steering rubbing on exhaust manifold

Little History: When we did my SAS originally the steering shaft consisted of a mostly 2nd gen shaft for a rack and pinion with a 1st gen steering end welded on to it to fit the traditional steering box. In theory this worked, but the steering angle doesn't line up very well, so the shaft would hit the exhaust manifold. we ground down the manifold, but it was still rubbing. At this point I did the opposite and used a first gen shaft with a body lift extender and a lot of washer for spacing, and have running it.

Flash forward to now...7+ years later. 1 rag joint was replaced at some point, and the other is torn. With all the mickey mousing I have a good 6-8"+ of play in the steering wheel. No joke! It's like driving a autopia car from Disneyland where you bounce off the center rail constantly, and I'm sick of it!

So today, I ripped it out! And stuck the original shaft we made in. I have been carrying it around as a spare for years. So yes it rubs on the manifold, but trying to think how I can make it work. (The real answer is fixing the box so it sits into the frame more, but that's not happening now) Good news is there is no more play. Bad news is it binds a bit when the frame flexs. Enough where the wheels would not center them self's in a looping off ramp. I let go of the wheel, and it stayed turning with curve


So I ask EF for input? I have included a picture below.

 

[MidnightRebel07]

I would check the motor mounts to see if they might be worn and sagging the engine down just enough to make the clearance even tighter. You've been tipping the Ex on it's side more lately (atleast from the pictures lately) this will loosen and weaken the mounts.

They notched the frame rail on the Rock Trac for it's steering box. I'm still up in the air if I want to use a Toyota box or a Super Duty box when I do my SAS, probably the S.D. box and tap it for hydraulic assist like STrunner did on his.

The only other thing I can think of right now would be to get a smaller double cardan joint to clear the manifold better.

 

[Stic-o]

The motor mounts are the original 150k mile, cross member cut out for sas, and no replacement, and well used 4x4

So yeah.. you mite be on to something there. Funny thing is I have had new mounts for 8 years...sitting on the garage shelf.

 

[boominXplorer]

Swap to headers and dent the heck out of the tube?

 

[MidnightRebel07]

No crossmember? Yeah I'd say the front frame rails are probably tweaked just a bit from being parallel. With all the wheelin' and lack of frame rail cross reinforcement the motor and mounts especially have been doing the job in place crossmember. I would replace the mounts since you already have them and fab up a crossmember brace (doesn't have to be huge) just strong enough to do the job.

Boomin, headers on the 4.0 give no gain in power or mpg's and aren't worth the price just to try to clear the steering shaft. jmo

 

[Stic-o]

Because gas mileage is truly a concern right? More power would be nice however.

I'm actually working on a brace now. Using the original front axle mounts to bolt it in.

 

[james t]

You don't have ANY front crossmember? Other than the front bumper? I think getting one in there will help a little... when you build it make it .25" too long and beat it in there with a hammer.

If that doesn't completely fix it... next option is build a new steering shaft with a different joint on the end. No clue on what to use, but that would be easier than notching the frame for the box.

Also, how much have you ground on the manifold? Ya know they're really thick... I think id try taking off some more material. If you happen to punch through that's like a $10 junkyard part- no biggie.

 

[Stic-o]

my other option is I could just fix the steering box mount. When we originally built it, we didn't sleeved the frame for the bolts. there was no extra support on the inner frame, and the first time we tried to climb up a tree, the steering box started crushing through the frame. we added a huge 1/4" plate in there as a spacer and never looked back. The huge spacer is still there, it's not even welded to the frame. It's just a giant 12"x6"washer

I think for now, I'll make the new brace, replace the motor mounts, and maybe grind a bit more off the manifold. that should do the trick for now.

I'm also planning on redoing the front bumper mount and boxing in the frame up front.

 

[Stic-o]

I was just thinking, I could space the front bolt on the steering box to try and give the box a better angle...Mite work:scratch:

 

[turboexplorer]

I was just thinking, I could space the front bolt on the steering box to try and give the box a better angle...Mite work:scratch:

I like that idea, but make sure when/if you do its not much. The flatter the box mounting points to its surface the better, so all the pressure on the small box tabs are taken on its full surface.

I used my 2nd gen double cardan joint on the box end with the factory slip section and new flange made to mate to the steering box. I don't run a rag joint at all and have 0 vibration issues and wheel is nice and smooth and tight. I have my 95 (if I remember right) F-150 box in mine and its inside the frame and is not sunk in at all, the shaft goes straight up to the column. I have about 1" between that and my manifold on my V8. I even made a heat shield for the shaft, it mounts to my oil dipstick tube mounting bracket. Not sure if that helps at all or not. :scratch:

 

[tdavis]

My Sidekick box uses what is called "The Wedge" to hold the box on.

Looks something like this: http://www.petroworks.com/wedge-bracket/

Allows full support of the box, while angling the steering back to where it needs to be to clear everything.

 

[Stic-o]

We had originally had spacers to space to box out beyond the 1/4" plate we had put in to compensate for the roundness of the steering box.

I removed the front spacer (right) and replaced with two thick washers (left) And what a difference that made

 

[MidnightRebel07]

Nice, one problem fixed. LOL

 

[Stic-o]

Make that two

Built and got my cross member in. Re used the factory front axle mounts

 

[MidnightRebel07]

Nice job. That's how I planned on reinforcing the frame rails under the engine after when I do my SAS.

 

[RockRanger]

Should help a bunch Steve.

 

[Stic-o]

Should help a bunch Steve.

Took it down to market to get SB supplies earlier. The whole front end feels tighter, seems like less body roll too. It's almost like driving a normal car again.

 

[MidnightRebel07]

Should help out on the trails but sounds like it improved road manors quite a bit.