2wd and 4wd Lifts. | Page 3 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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2wd and 4wd Lifts.

ive been searching and i find stuff for every other truck but mine, i have an 1996 2wd explorer sport and i want to lift my truck but i dont want a body lift, will ranger parts work or what cuz i cant find lift spindles for my year anywhere??

p.s. dont be mad i really searched my brians out
 



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i want to fit about 33s in my fender wells, if i crank the torsion bars and get deaver springs for the rear, and fiberwerx fenders front and rear would that work, i jut really dont want to F my body roll up seeing as most of what my truck will see is sand, and i cant afford a crazy custom suspension :) please help:0
 






Does anyone know for sure if the 4" suspension lift from Superlift posted on here will work for a 2nd gen 1995 4WD Explorer? I want to be sure and not waste my money. Thanks mates!
 






Does anyone know for sure if the 4" suspension lift from Superlift posted on here will work for a 2nd gen 1995 4WD Explorer? I want to be sure and not waste my money. Thanks mates!

the torsion bar brackets where welded to the frame in 95. 96+ where bolted to the frame.

IIRC the kit will work if you cut off the stock mounts off and buy some new ones for a 96+ and then bolt them on...
 






i want to fit about 33s in my fender wells, if i crank the torsion bars and get deaver springs for the rear, and fiberwerx fenders front and rear would that work, i jut really dont want to F my body roll up seeing as most of what my truck will see is sand, and i cant afford a crazy custom suspension :) please help:0

i did the TT to mine. and have 32x11.50's and they rubbed like crazy. i took the "tupperware" rocker covers off, and still had to cut the corner of the fender and bent it with sledge hammer, also cut the bumper facia... i doubt 33's would fit with just a TT. mine also rub on inner fender when full turn or hitting pot holes hard.
 






the torsion bar brackets where welded to the frame in 95. 96+ where bolted to the frame.

IIRC the kit will work if you cut off the stock mounts off and buy some new ones for a 96+ and then bolt them on...

Thank you very much! I'll see how it goes.
 






Thank you very much! I'll see how it goes.

i havent bought the kit...yet... i know its just drop down brackets, im assuming that you unbolt the t-bar bracket, bolt on on the drop down, and bolt you t-bar bracket back on.... so if you get some brackets for a 96+ and cut off the old, and drill and bolt the new ones on, it should work fine.... good luck!
 






i havent bought the kit...yet... i know its just drop down brackets, im assuming that you unbolt the t-bar bracket, bolt on on the drop down, and bolt you t-bar bracket back on.... so if you get some brackets for a 96+ and cut off the old, and drill and bolt the new ones on, it should work fine.... good luck!

Thanks mate!
 






when i do this i can use 4" shocks in the back from superlift or not
 






when i do this i can use 4" shocks in the back from superlift or not

ya you will need lift shocks, any kind will work, dont have to be superlift, just has to be ones for the same amount of lift that u have
 






So I looked at a buddy's 1998 XLT and I couldn't find any difference between my torsion brackets and his. I'm really confused and would like some clarity. Does anybody have a picture of their torsion brackets and could point out the difference between the two? Thanks
 






Alright so after searching the forums and talking to some people here is what I am going to do to my 1998 Ford Explorer XLT 2wd 4.0L SOHC.
1) I need to change the control arms and ball joints because they are not in the best condition.
2) In the front I want to get 3 inch lift spindles, and do a TT
3) In the rear I am going to add a leaf, along with shackels
4) If I get enough lift I want to get 33 inch tires or 32 Im not sure which will fit
5) Then I want to get a prerunner type bumper.
The reason I am doing all this is cause i like the look it will have, and I want to be able to do a little off roading not anything to crazy cause i know it is only a 2wd. Let me know if you have any suggestions or anything. I have about $2000 to spend now so im not sure how much ill be able to do now. here is a link to how it looks right now


http://s1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee476/connortate16/?action=view&current=Subs004.jpg
 






if you are planning on doing some off roading in your 2WD, you should look into and think about getting a set of lockers. it wil cahnge your rig's ride manners on the road, but it is the single best investment you can make in modding your rig for the dirt in my opinion.
 






i got a 99 explorer sport 2wd i want 33x12.50 but from what ive been reading is i would have to go with a 4'' or higher lift and to get this i would have to go with 3'' spindles and the torsion bar adjustment and in the rear 2'' shackles and soa and probly longer shocks im trying to avoid a bodylift does anybody know where a can get a grill guard with a winch mount
 






Thinking about a 4" Superlift in the front, and so I'm also looking at options to raise the rear to match. I don't want to TT, and I don't want a rake, so SOA is out. I'm thinking about combining longer shackles with a set of OME lift springs - has anybody done this? Will it net 3.5 to 4 inches lift?
 






Thinking about a 4" Superlift in the front, and so I'm also looking at options to raise the rear to match. I don't want to TT, and I don't want a rake, so SOA is out. I'm thinking about combining longer shackles with a set of OME lift springs - has anybody done this? Will it net 3.5 to 4 inches lift?

Totally Ghetto. :thumbdwn:
 













Shackles are ghetto. If you are going to buy the 4" kit up front, then do the 4" Superlift spring packs in the rear, why would you do half of the lift properly, then go ghetto on the rear? Shackles achieve lift by applying negative downward force on the rear of the spring which is opposite of what a spring is built for. Shackles that long are not wise, safe, nor cost effective in the long run. Do the 4" spring pack in the rear to go along with the 4" kit from Superlift and be done with it, and be done with it right from the start.
 






not to start an argument but how can shackles be dangerous? especially warrior shackles? if anything running stock shackles on lift springs and offroading would be more dangerous than running lift springs or soa with warrior shackles. i dont know just my .02.
 



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not to start an argument but how can shackles be dangerous? especially warrior shackles? if anything running stock shackles on lift springs and offroading would be more dangerous than running lift springs or soa with warrior shackles. i dont know just my .02.

Apparently you have never seen a rear spring buckle from the downward force of a shackle. A lift shackle negatively de-archs a spring, and the force is applied at the bushing eye to the spring pad at axle, causing it to de-arch itself at one half of the leaf spring, springs are not meant to do that, and ultimately could and will fail, either by folding over, or by flattening out or snapping in half or cracking a spring at the spring pad or snapping off at the leaf spring bushing eye.

ctrp_0309_11+rear_steer_design.jpg

This is a illustration as to what a normal ride spring with stock shackle vs a lifted shackle and what happens to the leaf spring.

1.) One represents the leaf spring bushing eye at stock configuration.

2.) Two represents the stock shackle

3.) Represents lifted shackle

4.) Four represents the flattening of the leaf spring from using the new lift shackle (notice how similar to the level plain you are now at from the leaf bushing eye bolt to the leaf spring axle pad from the force the shackle is creating on the rear portion of the leaf) Since the leaf is damn near flattened and level with the axle leaf pad, any harsh upward compression could cause the leaf to buckle and fold under.

5.) Five represents the leaf spring axle pad and the U-Bolts needed to secure the spring to the axle.

Now in my lifetime I have seen springs flatten to the point to where they fold under while driving, snap in 2 at the leaf pad at axle, or crack thru the main leaf at the pad. I have also seen the military wrap at the bushing snap off. So yes, they are dangerous and costly in the end.

Shackles are nothing more than a cheap excuse for a lift, and using them with a compromised weak spring furthers negates the safety of them. Alot of the users on here praise them because they know no better, young, first lifted vehicle of any sort, and do not hang on to their vehicles long enough to really care.

ctrp_0309_11+rear_steer_design.jpg
 






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