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2wd and 4wd Lifts.

ahhhhh i see now. i just feel the only reasonable arguement against that is under extreme offroad use and stock shackles bend or break under fatigue just because how thin the metal is. i wouldnt know cause i dont take mine offroad. mines a street queen lol
 



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i just feel the only reasonable arguement against that is under extreme offroad use

Nope, I had a buddy of mine that I could not for the life of me convince that a lift shackle was not the way to go and I explained what could happen at any given moment, but he never listened. So several months later, me and my wife went out with him and his wife camping. On the way there, a hugh pot hole was in the fast lane and he was in front of me. He hit that pot hole and the rear passenger leaf buckled on upward compression, bent beyond the axle leaf pad, and after it folded, it never rebounded. The tire was so far up in the wheel well, and no hopes in fixing there. He had to call a wrecker, and cost him $300 bucks to get it home. Needless to say, we did not go camping after that. And it completely scared the **** out of him and his wife.

You got to remember that the wt of the vehicle is on that extended shackle, and is pushing down on the spring eye wrap and is causing such a strain on that leaf pack, and with the u-bolts securing the leaf to the axle, all the negative force is at the bushing wrap and leaf pad. So either the leaf will buckle, or snap in half at the leaf pad, or bushing wrap. It does not take much upward compression to cause the leaf to exceed level plain from the shackle and axle.
 






Some of what you're saying isn't true skyjumper. A lift shackle is perfectly safe to use, as long as it is a reasonable length, like the warrior shackles. Your diagram you drew isn't completely accurate, because you didn't show that the axle moves down when you put on a longer shackle. Your diagram shows that the axle is in a fixed position in relation to the frame, which it isn't.

You also didn't show that, by installing a longer shackle, the shackle will become more vertical. This is what actually could cause the collapse of the leafs and supports your argument, but again, a warrior shackle isn't long enough to cause that problem.

I could go into much more detail about leaf springs but that isn't necessary. Long story short, warrior shackles are perfectly fine to use.

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A moderate lift shackle is alright in most instances. But to use a moderate to long shackle regardless when used with a stock worn out sagging leaf is not. And that is what I am pointing to. Most responses on here or other posts are talking about worn out sagging leafs and a lift shackle to lift or compensate. At that point a leaf is already compromised.

The shackle increase in length causes the pinion angle to be increased which is a bad thing.

In relation to stock length, there are a bunch of things affected when you change shackle lengths.
A longer shackle will move one end of the leaf spring further away from the frame, doing several things.

It rotates the axle down at the shackle side of the spring.

It increases pinion angle
It increases leverage on the shackle mount
It increases droop (down) travel
It decreases approach/departure angle
It adds lift to the suspension in the amount of half the difference between the new shackle and the original shackle.

A shackles length can dictate overall travel, both droop and compression. Stock Xplorer leaf springs sit pretty flat with the load of the Xplorer on em, not so with lift springs since they have a larger arch in order to provide that lift. Since lift springs are designed to bolt in with no changes to the mounts, the eye to eye dimension of the spring is the same as stock, but with the additional arch, the main leaf of the spring pack is actually quite a bit longer. So, in order for a lift spring to compress all the way to being flat, the eye to eye dimension is going to be greater than the stock spring. If the shackle is not long enough to allow this to happen, the spring will bind before it gets flat, if force is applied after this bind point, the spring pack will flex into a W shape, fatiguing the springs and shortening their lifespan.

When a spring droops, it will do so until its eye to eye dimension is limited, it hits this limit when the shackle is in line with the arch of the main leaf of the spring. A longer shackle will allow for more droop travel since when it reaches the max droop angle, the shackle end of the spring will be further away from the frame then it was with the stock length shackle.

This is not meant to be a debate or argument at all. Just my experience with others and my point of view. Most on here are all to fast to say to another asking for help to just slap on a extended shackle, and or go and make yourself one, or go to a local auto store and slap one on. Warrior daes make a beefy shackle, granted. But, that being said, it is not the best solution in my opinion. And that is just it, my opinion through experience with others.
 






Second of all, the axle does not move downward with a shackle lift, sorry but it does not.

I don't know how you can say this when there are hundreds of explorers on here that have in fact, gained lift from longer shackles. A shackle, stock or any length, positions the axle a certain relative distance away from the frame. The sprung weight of the vehicle is constant, so the force applied to the leafs is constant as well.

And when you say the leafs are flattened, are you talking about (1) when the leaf loses its arch, or (2) when the front and rear eyes become more level? I can see 2 happening, but I don't understand how 1 would happen from a longer shackle.

leafs.jpg
 






Edit: nevermind.
 






:thumbsup:

I rewrote what I said in a manner more understanding for all to read.
 






Since lift springs are designed to bolt in with no changes to the mounts, the eye to eye dimension of the spring is the same as stock, but with the additional arch, the main leaf of the spring pack is actually quite a bit longer. So, in order for a lift spring to compress all the way to being flat, the eye to eye dimension is going to be greater than the stock spring. If the shackle is not long enough to allow this to happen, the spring will bind before it gets flat, if force is applied after this bind point, the spring pack will flex into a W shape, fatiguing the springs and shortening their lifespan.

This makes more sense than what you wrote earlier. Maybe it was just the wording, but when you said "flattened" it sounded like you were saying the spring was losing arch. I still believe that the axle will be moved farther away from the frame with a longer shackle, but we can agree to disagree on that.

And I still say that for the original question that swashbuckler asked, warrior shackles will be fine for him. Especially if he uses them with lift springs like he said.
 












So if I just want minimal lift to clear 31x10.5x15 tires on a '97 AWD what does everyone recommend?

I was kinda leaning towards TT + Shackles cuz I don't really wanna #### with a body lift (they can be a pain...had one on my old full-size GMC...oops...said the G-word)

Any suggestions appreciated.
 






So if I just want minimal lift to clear 31x10.5x15 tires on a '97 AWD what does everyone recommend?

I was kinda leaning towards TT + Shackles cuz I don't really wanna #### with a body lift (they can be a pain...had one on my old full-size GMC...oops...said the G-word)

Any suggestions appreciated.

TT and shackles will do it
 






I have a 00 Eddie Bauer 2wd , Im going to do the Spindles and TT in the Front and was thinking about doing the SOA set up , but i have some sag in the back , what should i do to get rid of this? and in doing all of this , will i need to anything with the break lines ? or anything else for that matter. Any imput will help .
 






Imo AAL. There's a metal bracket the needs to be bent for the brake line
 






AAL ? sorry new to this and ok thanks , and any input on getting rid of the sag in the rear springs?
 






No worries. AAL = add a leaf. Add an extra leaf to the rear leaf springs and it will help get rid of the sag. Do a search for it
 






thanks , appreciate the help
:thumbsup:
 






ok. havew read this an have tried finding the spindles but can not does anyone know the part number and or where to order from
 






lifting a 2wd

just got a question i want to do a lift i already know that i have to do the TT in the front. As for the back i wanted to do three inch spacers and new leaf springs. Now what shocks would someone sggest to put on??? and what would be better add a leaf of the spacers??
 









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I'm getting a 200 explorer any suggestions on what lift I should go with
 






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