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327 Code KOEO...

YourNameHere

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Well, after my truck has been sputtering, sounding like an exhaust leak, I decided to check my codes.

With the Key On, Engine Off, the only code I got was 327.

Which is "EGR valve Pressure transducer/Position Sensor circuit below minimum voltage".

Anyone know if this code would cause my truck to run like complete ass?
WHAT's the cause? New EGR? New sensor or something?
I know where the EGR is, but anything else you guys will need to tell me or show me a pic. I'm still new to these Exploders!
 
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boggs1227

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code 327 is a FUN code to have ...... just kidding , most likelly your dpfe module has gone bad .ford manufactures a new design replacement dpfe module and it even comes with a new style harness that you have to cut the old one off and splice it on . when i was haveing egr problems ( code 327) i thought that my iac was bad /ect sensor/egr solinoid ....so after replaceing the iac i went to replace the ect sensor ( engine coolant temperature sensor ,the one near the thermo-stat) ......still the idle was bad and erratic ,would start the truck and it would goto 400 rpm's and stay there and want to die out ....driveing was bad to,power would be off and on while doing 55 mph.

--> something you want to look to see if it's ok is the egr solinoid ...but more importantlly the wire harness going to the unit .mine had the red wire pushed back into the harness and was not makeing contact(i could had caused this from testing the unit and messing around with 15 year old plastic parts they will BREAK ! so check that also while testing your sensors) i fixed mine with hot glue ,i pushed the metal slide tab all the way forward in the harness and then held it in place then hot glued it into postion while it cooled.


turns out my problems were 2 fold ...bad iac and bad dpfe module .so fixing mine was twice as hard to do . the 3 used iac i bought ...one of them i tried while trying to figure it all out was bad so after trial and error i used one that was good and worked . auto zone is where i got mine so it's not the new style replacement with the new connector but they sell it for $60 and comes with a 2 year warranty ...the ford one i think goes for around $70-90 .

i would try to clear out the codes on the computer and see what it does and if 327 back then look in to a new dpfe unit .

DSCN1283.jpg


the dpfe is the unit to the right of the iac .......( one with the tie wraps lol )
 
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YourNameHere

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WOW, under your hood is so clean!
Mine is rusty as fock!

So, it's the rectangular box, right? I actually figured that's where it was.
I'm just going to go to the local boneyard and buy 1 or 2. Hopefully it fixes the issue, cuz it's pissing me off! Sounds like I have a bad exhaust leak, but there isn't one.
Also, the truck is not liking reverse AT ALL, it sputters worse.

I can't believe I'm asking this, but what does DPFE stand for?
 
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boggs1227

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yep the rectangular box.

dpfe = Differential - Pressure - Feedback - Egr

i would not get one from the junk yard (you may find one like i did with the 3 iacs i bought,one of the 3 was in really good shape so it must have been somewhat new so you may get lucky )...i would think that items like this are a high wear item because they see exhaust gases all the time and the dpfe units ( like the stock ones and some after market ones ) are known to go bad .thats why ford redesigned the unit to a plastic caseing and a new style connector . make sure when you get a replacement to hook up the correct rubber hose lines correctlly to the egr tube ones ( ones a small and the other is a bigger one) .

check out my thread on the matter , http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=234040

also connected to the egr system is the transmission range sensor .this sensor inputs data to the computer .depending what gear is selected it uses resistors and switches to route current to the computer which in turn controls the egr system ,idle speed , and touque converter lock-up .

but also guessing that if this sensor is going belly-up then it would trip a code ....so it may not be it ( cause you said the truck did not like reverse) i would not worry about but it may be something to keep in the back of your mind if a replacement dpfe unit does not fix your problems.
 
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mikeinri

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Is that HAVE-rill, or Hayver-hill??? :)

Anyway, do a search, there's lots of info here.

My experience with this is, buy a new DPFE from a Ford dealer (will come with connector upgrade). Replace the hoses as well (they are actually silicone, not rubber).

Hope this helps.

Mike
 
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YourNameHere

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I pronounce it "Hayverill" LOL

I did do a search and found a bunch but not everything I wanted to know, you know how it is.
 
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mikeinri

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Nice, a little Boston-area humor there...

Anyway, Boggs and I have had lots of fun with this code. In both cases, it turned out to be the DPFE. BUT, if you really want to troubleshoot (rather than blindly part-swap), go to Autozone with the code and have them give you a printout of the diagnostic.

What you are looking for is something that will be printed on a cash register tape (it will be quite long). The diagnostic will include voltages on the various wires (the wire colors are given), at various states of use (you will need a handheld vacuum pump to do this correctly). If you're lucky, it might just be a bad wire or connector (happened to me with a MAF sensor once).

There is also a full diagnostic online (somewhere).

I can't emphasize this enough, if you do need the DPFE (or any other electronic part), buy the Ford part. I wasted an extra $80 AND had to buy the Ford part when the cheapie part failed about a month after I installed it.

Mike
 
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boggs1227

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^^^ agreed what mike said , from our experiance's with dpfe units just go buy the ford sensor replacement ....the only reason i bought another after market unit was because of money concerns ( and it came with a 2 year replacement (( first one i bought only came with a 1 year and both were bought at autozone))

the economy dictates what you can do so buy what you can ( all you can do nowdays i suppose) but if you can buy the ford part... then do it .like if you had a bad starter or alt/water pump/ power steering pump/ etc.... i WOULD not go and buy those parts cheaper at places like auto zone or advance auto or any other cheaper parts store ...reason being .....things like that i would go buy at napa .much higher quality parts ( you don't want to drop $80 bucks on a part and have it only last a year or two right ? ) so it goes without saying that the dpfe unit replacement ford makes would be the higher end replacement part for a item like this . and from haveing gone through the headache of code 327 ...if i had to do over again i would buy the ford unit .i got 208k on my motor and with all oem factory orig ' parts .....thats almost twice the life of most accessory parts ( like some other car brands and most after market parts) ......ford makes some good stuff in other words for them to last as long as they do ............
 
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YourNameHere

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OK guys, I replaced the DPFE with a new one from Ford, with the new connector. the truck still runs like crap! Would bad plugs/wires throw the same code?
 
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boggs1227

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sigh ..sorry to hear that . when mine was f'ing up i also had a iac failure as well ,so my problem was two fold . did you clear the code and disconnect the battery while replaceing the dpfe unit ? see i replaced mine with a new dpfe and without knowing about the state of my iac was in and also not knowing to clear the code out of stored memory i went to crank the truck up and got a cel again and plus the truck ran a little better but still is was not right .

so cleaning the iac did not help so i had to replace it then after it was all said and done i had replaced two parts and cleared out the computer and even after that it still ran somewhat like crap for about 20-30 minutes till the computer relearned it's new parameters then it was perfect .

hope this helps
 
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YourNameHere

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Yes, I cleared the code. I cleaned the IAC a few months ago, but i guess it wouldn't hurt to try again.

I swear it needs plugs but the cel is 327 still.
 
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mikeinri

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Per my post above...

BUT, if you really want to troubleshoot (rather than blindly part-swap), go to Autozone with the code and have them give you a printout of the diagnostic.

What you are looking for is something that will be printed on a cash register tape (it will be quite long). The diagnostic will include voltages on the various wires (the wire colors are given), at various states of use (you will need a handheld vacuum pump to do this correctly). If you're lucky, it might just be a bad wire or connector (happened to me with a MAF sensor once).

There is also a full diagnostic online (somewhere).

Besides the DPFE, there are several other parts involved with this code, along with the silicon hoses, wiring, connectors, etc. At this point, I would reiterate doing a full diagsontic.

If your plugs and plug wires are old, replace them, but don't expect that to affect the 327 code.

Hope this helps.

Mike
 
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YourNameHere

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Guys, I heard these trucks frequently crack exhaust manifolds. Could this be my problem? I don't see any cracks though.

I replaced the silicon hoses, a nice new dpfe/connector, and tried 2 different IACs. What else should i try that is related to the 327 code
 
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YourNameHere

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Anyone?
 
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YourNameHere

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???
 
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Alan_V

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Do you hear an exhaust leak? A cracked manifold would be noisy. Check your KOEO voltage to the module. How many wires are there? I'm at work and the car isn't here. The voltage too low statement indicates the voltage signal is below expected values. From a wiring standpoint, that would lead me to confirm that I'm getting the correct voltage to the unit. If it's more than 2 wires, one will be B+, there will be ground, and other wires should be signal. I expect the ground is okay because the voltage is low. A bad ground should give you a voltage too high code.

What happens if you disconnect the DPFE, KOEO? Do you get different codes? I'm not sure if you would, but logic would tell me you should.

The other thing, is there any chance that you were working on something else and this occured after that? Always go over recent past work.
 
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MrShorty

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A KOEO 327 indicates that the fault the computer is seeing is present when the engine isn't running (in other words, no vacuum, no flow -- just the "baseline" signal from the sensor that tells the computer the circuit is complete). I'm assuming at this point that you are properly distinguishing between a KOEO code and a CM code.

Have you checked the wiring between the DPFE and the PCM? Is the DPFE getting the 5V Vref signal from the PCM? What voltage is the DPFE outputting? Does that voltage vary if you apply vacuum to one of the sensor hoses? Just trying to see if anything is happening.
 
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YourNameHere

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How do I check the voltage on the dpfe.

My 01 taurus just pulled a dpfe code, and it turned out it had a clogged cat.
 
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MrShorty

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Do you have a wiring diagram (even the one in Chilton's or Haynes is often adequate)? I haven't done it in real life ('92's don't have an EGR system), but the wiring diagrams show three wires to the DPFE. One wire is spliced off and goes to several other sensors. This is the Vref circuit, and should be a constant 5V DC. The other two wires are the DPFE signal wires, and, if it's similar to the PFE on my BII, the voltage across these two wires should vary as the pressure difference between the two ports changes.
 
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Wanda

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Hi I am having the same problem,with me 95 Explorer, I have already replaced the DPFE and the EGR valve both which did fix the codes that I was originally getting but now I am getting a code 327 and I checked to see if I was getting a 5 volt to the dpfe and found I was not any idea what I can do next?

But I did have at one time codes 114, 116, 335 and 636 but I disconnected the battery and those codes went away.
And I just noticed from the wiring disgram that three of those sensors involve the evap canister purge valve that lead to the pcm would that have anything to do with this problem?
 
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