347 RE-Power 1996 Limited AWD

As things are getting closer and closer thought I would update.

Started late last year, reading posts and asking questions. I decided to go ahead to drop in a built 347 into my 1996 explorer which has over 300,000km (almost 190,000 miles) on it. The truck still runs great BTW, and has been in the family since new and its been in my hands since last Oct.

First impulse was a cheap 1996 complete 1996 5.0L Explorer motor on fleabay. Shipped it to the engine builder to use as a donor.

It is a 347 built by Fordstrokers with a custom cam from Camshaft Innovations.

- Scat rotating assembly
- Mahle pistons
-Trick flow fast as cast 190cc heads
- comp gold rockers
- trick flow Track Heat intake.
- Torque Monster Headers built with the correct exhaust flange.

Other items of note
- 1" phenolic spacer
- 70mm accufab throttle body with modified throttle arm
- 30lb injectors
- 255lbs/hr fuel pump
- re-use the explorer intake elbow 70mm dia.
- black trick flow valve covers
- utilize some of my MAC intake

Supporting items
- 75mm Prom M MAF (Henson Performance)
- Wideband 02 sensor (Henson Performance)
- tuning (Henson)

Other to-do's
- exhaust will be re-done from the headers to cat back with mandrel bent tubing and new cats. Larger mandrel bent intake tubing to match larger diameter of MAF and TB.




This motor is being bolted to a Lentech 4R70W with 2600RPM 11.5" stall converter.

I'd like to thank many people for advice and tips but especially Don - CDW6212R for pointing me in the right direction with Fordstrokers and equally important was providing me with a custom made 28oz balancer with the explorer timing ring machined and pinned on there.

2010man for selling me his 1994 Mustang Cobra OEM crank pulley. This part is not made by ford anymore and has the same diameter of the explorer pulley but bolts to the custom 28oz balancer that Don sent me.

Also Turdle and tmsoko for answering some questions.

here it is at the engine builder


here it is at my shop, patiently waiting. mocked up driver's side header and intake.


Here is a used 70mm accufab throttle body next to a stock explorer 65mm TB. I modified the arm on the TB to match the location of the stock explorer linkage so both the throttle and cruise cables/linkages with match up.


I will post more updates as they come.

 

[CDW6212R]

I hope to say sometime this year. Lots of things have happened lately, the hail storm being the biggest. After things settle down again, I'll do the trans first, and then do the 347 swap.

Which torque converter did you get, who from? I hope to work with Alan of Dirty Dog in the future.

 

[turboexplorer]

Alright I got tons of info for you on the codes. Give me a bit to scan it and send it to you. Hoping to get it to you by tonight.

 

[ford99_1979]

I got a converter from Lentech Automatics. http://www.lentechautomatics.com/aodhome.html

It was recommended by the owner, and matched to my vehicle, and he also supplied the flywheel to fordstrokers and recommended the tranny set-up also.

 

[CDW6212R]

I thought you likely bought it from them too.

I researched a lot two years ago to build a 4R70W. The trans is very strong stock, and for much more power, only the type of high end trans you have, or the "J mod" VB method are good choices. I can do my own trans, so I'm working towards modifying a car VB I have. Note that the "J mod" can only be done to a car 4R70W VB, never a truck 4R VB. It's tedious and I have put it off, but it's not really that hard.

 

[turboexplorer]

Alright so here is some info on the codes that you gave me. I ran your whole scenario by my instructor to and this is what we have come up with.

One, You mentioned that the intake gasket gave way and it threw a bunch of coolant through the engine and out the tailpipe. That alone suggests that the O2's are shot. However don't deem them dead yet.
First what you need to do is make sure that you have adequate power to the Heater in the O2 sensors. There is two places you can test for power and for a good ground for the O2 sensors. One is you can test right at the connector where the O2's clip into the trucks harness. Get a DVOM and backprobe the connector to see if there is full batt voltage +12V. Then test for a ground there as well. I will post a pick of where to test on the connector. Also you can test it at the PCM (computer) C202 connector. The big one that the whole harness hooks to the PCM with. I'll post a picture of that to. And also a picture of which pins are needed to be tested. If you have the voltage at the sensor and also a good ground that then deems the sensors garbage and the truck will never run well without them. Don't know how much you know about how the PCM operates but you want the computer to go into it's closed loop as FAST as possible. One criteria for it to do that is for the O2 sensors to reach at least 600*F to start read correctly. A good heated O2 sensor should be able to do that in less than a minute easy this time of year. But if the heater isn't working then it may take 5+ minutes and even then may be longer. This means the computer is running off of preset programming instead of running off the O2 sensors that tell it how to adjust its fuel trims for how its running at that exact second. Hence part of the poor mileage you have mentioned. The faster it can get into a closed loop situation the better the mileage and then smoother the engine as well as more power if its running really rich. Also if the heater was taken out the sensor probably isn't reading right either which then skews the readings the computer is trying to interpret. All of which really screws with your long and short term fuel trims. So check for power and a good ground and that will tell you if the O2 heaters are bad. Also you can watch the o2 sensors signal readings to the PCM by back probing the right pin on the PCM connector and you should see the voltage fluctuate between roughly 0.1V-0.9V If even after the truck is fully warm and has been driven (to heat up the sensors that don't have a working heater) it does not fluctuate between those readings and does it roughly 1 time per second then again that tells us your O2 sensors are garbage and need to be replaced. I recommend Motorcraft. Fords tend to be picky with O2's so for me its worth a sensor that Ford designed to work with all the other components on the truck.

Okay enough of me talking about the two O2 codes. Here are the Pictures. Next I will talk about the P1000 Code and what it means and does and how to get rid of it.

Heated O2 connector View. The heater will be the two wires that are closest to the clip part of the connector or top of this picture. One thing to note at this time is DO NOT OHM ANYTHING WHILE CONNECTED TO THE PCM. It will go up in smoke then you'll be in a world of hurt. Just use a High Impotence DVOM in DC Voltage setting then your free to probe whatever. Also key will need to be on to test for all this.

(Also can test for that O2 signal that fluctuates here as well bottom left in this picture.)

Here are the PIN numbers needed if you are going to test at the PCM (easiest way to test)Gives PIN's for both the signal wires and also the Heater power supply and grounds. It grounds the components to control them so you should always see +12V at the heater PINs (71/97)

Next here is the picture of the PCM connector. If you are confused you can look at the wire colors as well as PIN's that aren't used which are designated in Black. You can count back from the PIN's that aren't being used to find the ones you need. (Note: all wires may not be exact colors, depends if manufacturer had all colors available at the time the truck was made) However PIN's will be in exact loctations.

 

[turboexplorer]

Alright now onto P1000. This is a FORD only code. This code means that the PCM hasn't been able to complete a full test of all its monitors yet. Monitors are things that the PCM looks at to check how the vehicle is running and also confirms that it passes emissions. There are several monitors that the PCM needs to run and have pass in order for this code to go away. This code DOES NOT SET THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT Its a ghost/pending type code. It will just hang in the background forever if all the monitors do not run and pass. All this you can look at if you have a good scan tool. You can see what monitors have run and if they passed. I believe its mode $06 in global OBD-II, that you can see all the monitors (I may be wrong but should be mode $06) So to not ramble and ramble, Long story short if the O2 sensors are bad then it wont be able to run and pass those monitors. Therefore it will never go away. At Least 1 full drive cycle needs to be completed to pass all of these monitors. The following pictures and pages will go over how to do one full drive cycle and pass all of these monitors. If not followed it may take quite awhile to run and pass all monitors. If you follow this it should only take 31 minutes and 48 seconds to complete.

A few notes about this: Fuel level MUST be under 80% full and above 20% for the Evaporative Emissions Monitor to run. Next its a general Ford one for your year, so ignore all M/T manual trans stuff and 5th gear stuff.
Follow times as speeds as close as possible! Flow chart will be posted first then a written description on what to do. I know its a ton of info but hey I have access to it so why not post it and use it. I really hope this helps. Let me know on the results. Replace O2's and all should be well in 347 stroker power land!

Flow Chart and shows what monitors will run at what times.

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[turboexplorer]

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[ford99_1979]

I thought you likely bought it from them too.

I researched a lot two years ago to build a 4R70W. The trans is very strong stock, and for much more power, only the type of high end trans you have, or the "J mod" VB method are good choices. I can do my own trans, so I'm working towards modifying a car VB I have. Note that the "J mod" can only be done to a car 4R70W VB, never a truck 4R VB. It's tedious and I have put it off, but it's not really that hard.

I did pick your brain a while ago on where to go. You mentioned Dirty Dog and I did speak with Al. I ended up going with Lentech because it was a complete package for me.

I hope you make the time to get your powertrain completed. You have done so much research and helped so many others from that. Now get 'R 'done

Alright so here is some info on the codes that you gave me. I ran your whole scenario by my instructor to and this is what we have come up with.

Wowzers! information motherload. This is certainly going to help. I really appreciate the effort If only you guys could take my truck into your class to work on it. haha (assuming you are in school right now)

 

[turboexplorer]

Yup I am going to Wyotech right now. Would love to work on a stroked Explorer

 

[ford99_1979]

Dyno Time!

Ok so I went to a local dyno shop to make sure my tune was good after everything i've been through and just give me piece of mind. Thumbs up for James @ Henson Performance for giving me a good tune. After looking at things the dyno shop said he wouldn't change anything and i'm all in for saving money in doing that. It goes to show you can get a good tune from doing datalogging and a wideband 02 sensor even if you are 1000's of miles apart.

In a way the results are a little dissapointing as I thought this motor would be good for more power. At the same time its a great set-up for how I use the truck which is to drive it everyday, all year, all weather with good driveability. In summary this is what I asked for when I got the motor built and when I filled out the cam sheet. I asked for a emissions cam for a truck which is a daily driver.

Obviously there are some drivetrain losses with the automatic and transfer case and some sacrifices in the exhaust and could of went with a bigger intake such as a Trick Flow type-R and in a perfect world a guy would have long tubes with dual 3" and a X-pipe and ported heads and bigger cam, etc. But its not a weekend hot rod or street racer. My truck sees cold winters and hot summers. Just on friday we got a nasty T-storm and I was driving though 2 feet of water on some spots due to flash flood and hail and my truck did good.

Final numbers after removing the front driveshaft at the rear wheels.

241 hp
254 lbs/trq

I'm going to try and get down to the track this year to see how it will do

 

[Spas]

OUCH! >.< I was sure you'd be over 300 at least

 

[Limited02]

Ok so I went to a local dyno shop to make sure my tune was good after everything i've been through and just give me piece of mind. Thumbs up for James @ Henson Performance for giving me a good tune. After looking at things the dyno shop said he wouldn't change anything and i'm all in for saving money in doing that. It goes to show you can get a good tune from doing datalogging and a wideband 02 sensor even if you are 1000's of miles apart.

In a way the results are a little dissapointing as I thought this motor would be good for more power. At the same time its a great set-up for how I use the truck which is to drive it everyday, all year, all weather with good driveability. In summary this is what I asked for when I got the motor built and when I filled out the cam sheet. I asked for a emissions cam for a truck which is a daily driver.

Obviously there are some drivetrain losses with the automatic and transfer case and some sacrifices in the exhaust and could of went with a bigger intake such as a Trick Flow type-R and in a perfect world a guy would have long tubes with dual 3" and a X-pipe and ported heads and bigger cam, etc. But its not a weekend hot rod or street racer. My truck sees cold winters and hot summers. Just on friday we got a nasty T-storm and I was driving though 2 feet of water on some spots due to flash flood and hail and my truck did good.

Final numbers after removing the front driveshaft at the rear wheels.

241 hp
254 lbs/trq

I'm going to try and get down to the track this year to see how it will do

I too figured you'd be over 300, at least close to it

Dyno numbers don't mean anything anyway, the track will tell how she's doing

Edit: Noticed you were on a Mustang Dyno, they tend to read a little lower than other dynos.

 

[techieman33]

I expected to see better numbers than that too, but between the 4r70w, the awd, and the mustang dyno I'm sure you lost a ton of power. I would really be interested to see how it does at the track.

 

[ford99_1979]

Yes I agree. The guy before me had a F150 with 5.4 and a Ford racing whipple on top with 8lbs. He only put down 330 at the rear wheels. So ya the numbers don't tell the whole story.

The dyno guy races a NA fox stang with a 399 inch SBF at does 9.5 in the quarter mile. So he knows what's right and wrong and he was not surprised with my combo. He also suggested some major drivetrain losses where limiting the numbers.

Looks like I have to go to the track to prove it out. It will bog out of the hole im thinking. I will also post up a video of one of the dyno pulls. It was pretty cool to see that in person. It was also loud as a ****.

 

[turboexplorer]

Either way those numbers are WAY above what they lay down from the factory. That would put you at 300+ at the engine and factory is 215 so a 33% or better increase that's not shabby at all.

Also did you get the O2's fixed and codes staying off? Mileage go up any?

 

[ford99_1979]

First dyno session for me. So I got nothing to compare to. Others have stated that the Mustang dyno produces a lower number than other dynos and also dyno numbers don't mean much. The conversion this perticular dyno operator gave me for flywheel number was 355hp and torque above that some. Maybe the awd was robbing the number some more. But again I will say i'm not unhappy as it runs good.

So ya to answer you other question 02s are fixed. It was a heater power supply wire problem. Mileage still is low, but that is driving habits. I have a short commute 10-20 minutes and I drive like a idiot between lights. I rarely ever get out on the highway for any extended period of time. When I do i'm in the Flex with the family.

 

[ford99_1979]

I ran into some new issues, I think its minor.

If I am in 3rd and I punch it, the tranny should shift into 2nd. This was not happening or intermittently happening. It also came with a CEL.

P0122
Throttle pedal
position A (tp-a) ck t
low input (short ck t)

P1000
obd systems readiness
test not complete

P1125
throttle position A
(tp - a) intermittent

Is this a TPS issue?

 

[turboexplorer]

Yes, now what you need to do is get your DVOM. Your TP sensor as the industry has changed the name from TPS to TP. Lol, told us that technicians should know its a sensor. Anywaysthere is three wires going to it. I dont have the diagram and wire colors but one of the thtee wires is a ground one is a signal wire and one is a 5V ref. So find your ground, then find your 5V reference wire (will need key on, engine not running) Then your left over wire is your signal wire that tells the PCM where the throttle is. Back probe into the connector on the wire harness side in the signal wire. Then with engine off key still on hook up your DVOM to ground and the signal wire. At closed throttle you should be about .5V then grab your throttle lever under that cover plate and hold it at full throttle. It should read real close to 4.5V. Now go from closed throttle to wide open throttle nice and slow and watch your DVOM your volt reading should climb smooth with no glitches. Then go back to closed throttle slow and it should be smooth that direction to.

Any other questions let me know!

Also I dynoed my truck today. I have pictures off the screen but I need to take a flash drive tomorrow so I can put the graph on it.

161 lb-ft
112 HP
Thats also at 7,200 feet so very high altitude.

 

[ford99_1979]

Yes, now what you need to do is get your DVOM. Your TP sensor as the industry has changed the name from TPS to TP. Lol, told us that technicians should know its a sensor. Anywaysthere is three wires going to it. I dont have the diagram and wire colors but one of the thtee wires is a ground one is a signal wire and one is a 5V ref. So find your ground, then find your 5V reference wire (will need key on, engine not running) Then your left over wire is your signal wire that tells the PCM where the throttle is. Back probe into the connector on the wire harness side in the signal wire. Then with engine off key still on hook up your DVOM to ground and the signal wire. At closed throttle you should be about .5V then grab your throttle lever under that cover plate and hold it at full throttle. It should read real close to 4.5V. Now go from closed throttle to wide open throttle nice and slow and watch your DVOM your volt reading should climb smooth with no glitches. Then go back to closed throttle slow and it should be smooth that direction to.

Any other questions let me know!

Also I dynoed my truck today. I have pictures off the screen but I need to take a flash drive tomorrow so I can put the graph on it.

161 lb-ft
112 HP
Thats also at 7,200 feet so very high altitude.

Thanks for the reply.

DVOM = digital volt meter

If my readings are NOT in the range specified above I need a new TPS or TP as the industry likes to refer to them

Thanks for sharing your dyno numbers. Makes my numbers look more respectable. hahaha.

This TPS issue is preventing me from getting to the track and I hear the track is closing after this year.

 

[Turdle]

Actually TPS voltage ranges from (ideal) .86v to 4.5v --