347 Stroker swap with pics and specs | Page 4 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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347 Stroker swap with pics and specs

I think you're right and I had that thought as well. I do remember when bolting the converter back to the flexplate that it did knock side to side when id turn the crank, before it was bolted, telling me it wasn't pushed tight against the flexplate. I did notice the rear main seal leaking slightly on the stocker too.

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the rear main leaked on mine as well. that was telling me, without me knowing the crank was walking around.
also, not to poop on your parade, if yours is a cast crank (and if you knew this already, sorry for bringing up something you know already) that with the damage that was done to it, its now more then likely a paper weight. you really cant weld cast, and if they did, i am not sure i would trust it.


Great article! That was a good find.
Hope you guys hone in on what is causing this.


Did I read correctly, are both you guys crankshafts from Scat?
Something in that article said to look at the front side of the thrust bearing surface where it did not wear and see if it looks smooth, if they are not it could be a defective crank.

both scat, both cast. my crank wore on the side facing the front of the motor. thrust bearing wore on the side facing the trans


Mankorn427, did yours fail on the same sides as Vroomzoomboom's ?

Yeah mine failed on the same side as vroomzoomboom. The rear side facing the trans. In the pics I posted you can see that the front side did have some contact because it shows some wear. I'm still under the weather pretty bad and haven't felt like pulling the truck back into the garage to check the current play. I'm also wondering, if I got oil coming from my new main seal on the old engine and I do recall I definitely had oil leaking from the old main seal, that there was a problem lurking before the engine swap. For the thrust surface of the crank to wear that bad something had to push fairly hard forward. From yours to mine we both had stock trans and converter right? I would say it's linked to the trans components. But for me I'm still thinking about the 28oz flexplate I got with the engine.

I found that article earlier yesterday morning. I thought about the converter pressure pushing on the crank. I also thought with that being a possible theory with the increase in hp the converter pressure would be higher (my thoughts) because it's under a bit more stress.


Is it physically possible to put the flexplate on backwards?
Also found this video from TCI.


Spacer Plate

Were both of you using the factory spacer plate that goes between the engine block and flexplate?

I don't believe it's possible to put the flexplate on backwards because of the bolt alignment to the crank only aligns one way and also it would hit the block.

I was using the stock spacer plate for my build. Actually everything but the flexplate is stock.

My plan was to use the stock trans and converter until it either failed or eventually get a Lentech unit. The trans itself has proven to still be solid as it hasn't been touched at all except a shift kit years ago. I've owned the truck since new. Maybe I should have just went with an upgraded converter from the start. I had figured it would be ok.

Did you check your crankshaft end play after bolting up the trans?

factory spacer, i believe its a factory flex plate balanced for the stroker kit. also was going to add, the truck did have a lentec trans in it, with a 2600 stall converter that came from them as well.

I did muster up the energy to do some checking this afternoon and pulled the dust shield off and converter bolts. I've got about 3/16in play between the flexplate and converter. I couldn't get the crank to move much if any and maybe thats a good sign. Here are some pics i took

I could get my small flathead screwdriver to turn sideways between the converter and flexplate which measures right about 3/16in

Here is another I thought I'd share from the stroker engine and the flexplate for it. It must have had some force push it into the engine because it's got a wear ring were it rubbed at the main seal


i never did check clearances on the stroker engine with the 28oz flexplate, but i do remember the converter bolts having the knocking sound when I would rotate the engine before I tightened the converter bolts telling me i did have some play. With the clearance i have now on the stock engine I now believe I don't have ballooning happening. Hydro pressure from the converter is my other thought of cause.

Oh and the oil I mentioned dripping from the back of the stock engine I just put back together is coming from the back of the oil pan. I used a one piece rubber gasket and I didn't put any sealant at the corners of the mains so I bet thats where its coming from.

I do plan to replace the crank, instead of having it repaired, with a forged crank. Not sure if I'll go with a Scat crank again, but I didn't really choose the components as they were chosen and built for me

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