347 swap and first start up | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

347 swap and first start up


Active Member
October 5, 2009
Reaction score
City, State
Burnsville, NC
Year, Model & Trim Level
1999 Ford Explorer V8 AWD
Hey guys and gals. I've swapped a 347 stroker into my 99 Limited AWD and I'm having some problems with the first start up.

First off... meet my 347
Its a 10.8:1 cr, forged flat top piston and I beam rods, AFR 185s, Trick flow stage 2 cam, scat crank, Trick flow track heat upper and lower, comp cams 1.6 rockers, stock TB and exhaust manifolds (replacing very soon)

The problem I'm having is getting it started. I have to hold the throttle partially to get it to run but it won't idle. I'm not sure if its a vacuum leak or something more complicated. The last engine I swapped was a more radical 306 into my 93 stang and it ran better than my EX. Could it be I haven't had a tune wrote for it yet? I'm not familiar with the ECU systems in these trucks and I'm not even sure I got the cam sensor in correct.

Some help would be cool from those that have some experience in the engine swap. Maybe I can answer some questions for my trials.

Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!

Do you have your mass air flow hooked up? If so verify there is no leaks between it and the throttle body.

I do have it connected and its a matched 30lb/hr mass air meter with 30lb/hr injectors. No leaks between MAF and TB.

What balancer are you running? Are you using the factory explorer ignition setup still?

Next question is do you have the cam pos sensor installed correctly intime? I have had a hard time with this before.

I am using the stock ignition. I don't know if if I have the cam sensor correct. I set the engine to TDC and set the sensor with the cap off pointing to the middle notch on the housing. I was guessing. I'm 99% sure I have the wires correct because I labeled them. I am going to check for vacuum leaks today and try to figure out if I have set the cam sensor wrong.

Oh, my guess for the CMP sensor was from the old engine. I set it to TDC and remembered where it was and set it approximate to what I had on the old engine.

There is a tool for setting setting the cam sensor, you may need to get it and try again.

I have found looking through online tech articles it looks like i put it in 180deg from TDC. Trying to pull the shaft out but it won't come out now. I wish i had the alignment tool when I did put it in now. I had a few too many beers at that time. I have never had any troubles like this trying to pull a distributor shaft of any sort. It is in and won't budge, and yes i removed the retainer clamp.

So here's an update. I couldn't get the camshaft sensor shaft out of the engine for some reason. It went in with ease but will not come out. Even while rotating the engine while pulling on it. So I left it disconnected and it runs now. It runs good too. I'm going through a breakin procedure but it does feel like it has the power. I bought the long block from TRE Performance and added the track heat upper and lower. I also found the balancer from Damperdudes.com and the flex plate was balacned with the engine and came from TRE. Without the cam sensor it still goes into closed loop.

As for the headers I will probably go with the TM headers just for the ease. I was going to buy some mandrel and flanges, but reality is I don't have time working 6 days with 2 kids. I found a throttle body on ebay that is modified already for the linkage. I just couldn't wait any longer to get the engine in and I just wanted to get it out of my basement so i can start on my 81 T-Top mustang.