360 cmp

[smegun]

I replaced just the sensor as the syncro felt great... problem was I roke the connector pulling it out the wrong way when repairing and testing it it failed always giving me 12 volts no matter where the vane was in the sensor so I discarded it .. I replaced just the sensor with one that tested good and re installed the syncro with some reservations

the manual states put the vane on the mark at right angles guide the syncro in at tdc the vane moves clockwise afterwards backprobe the sensor at 26 ATDC ... thought I had it right

unfortunately the truck is running the way I left it before a new head job I still got stumbles and bad fluctuations and what appears to be an eth of smoke floating around my engine my question is can I be 180 out on the syncro and the truck still run???

….will residual fuel and spark run the truck although erratic ?? ….this is my second set of gaskets I cleaned all my fuel injectors this time got new fuel pump flushed gaped and even checked the harness for cross talk before firing it up !!there is all new rockers lifters rods and new valve job truck still runs the way I left it!! poorly

 

[smegun]

I replaced the sensor the drive felt great the first sensor broke a lead I repaired it but it tested bad always giving me 12 volts so I discarded it .. I replaced it with one that tested good and re installed the syncro I backprobed the sensor at 26 atdc and thought I had it right

unfortunately the truck is running the way I left it before a new head job I still got stumbles and bad fluctuations and what appears to be an eth of smoke floating around my engine my question is can I be 180 out on the syncro and the truck still run???

….will residual fuel and spark run the truck although erratic ?? ….this is my second set of gaskets I cleaned all my fuel injectors this time got new fuel pump flushed gaped and even checked the harness for cross talk
!!!there is all new rockers lifters rods and new valve job truck still runs the way I left it!! a miss frothing slosher
:/

...the manual I picked up says start the syncro out at the mark at right angle sink the syncro the vane moves in a clock wise direction twards the arrow backpobe the syncro tightener down and insert your rods …. this is the pick at 26 deg atdc am I in the right spot and is it possible the truck is running 180 on the fuel sync

View attachment 172226

View attachment 172227

originally I parked the truck after doing a tensioner job I replaced the guides and tensioner I had a mishap I was using air on the crank gear and it slipped the key way and turned my cam I put it back in order lining up the key ways thinking nothing about the possibility of accidently turning the cam out of position with the syncro the truck ran the same way as before I began the tensioner job missing and sloppy and sat for almost two seasons ...after further reading and investigations the heads came off to reveal a recessed valve as some relief to the changing of many parts and the beginning of my next attempts to get the truck operational

the first set of gaskets after the head job did not solve the problem still ran the same as parked I tore the top off and began the back probe of the cam sensor I thought I had it right to replace the sensor and catch the compression stroke looking at the valves but maybe i was wrong and set the cmp on the wrong stroke ????

all the rods lifters and rockers still looked new and pristine and now my second set of gaskets may have been wasted on the same problem with the syncro or i have bottom end problem not sure getting codes sporatic …. dpfe coils fuel trims etc but these could be from a poor sync …… the way it stumbles around runs clean for a few and then off and on and building up smoke as it gets warm leaving a check engine light is a terrible indication ….I don't see why they just didn't run everything from the crank window there asking a lot from a tom with syncing voltage drops in the pan

 

[smegun]

good site


Part 2 -1992-1994 4.0L Ford Exploer, Ranger Ignition System Wiring Diagram

 

[smegun]

another goodie

Part 6 -How to Test the Coil Pack (Ford 3.0L, 3.8L, 4.0L, 4.2L)

 

[smegun]

truck is running better now but im having some issues im not positive I have a good cam crank sensor sycronization the truck may be running on a default mode pretty sure I got a tacky injector so the next move is to replace the injectors and recap on the cam and crank sensor syncronizations I also am going to put in a new maf and o2 sensors as they are the only thing throwing codes at this point

if it was a regular distributor I could just experiment with the buggers advance to get it right might have to take it in to get it read on a proper scanner and there not going to like the fact that its tucked way in the back


anyone want to comment on the full function of the cam sensor fire away because the one doesn't have a tool and there are no 90 degree starting points for stabing the syncro with the manifold and top air on to make on the go adjustments …….


no one has given me a comment on my pic it someone take a pic with there phone at TDC he ha :/