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3800 M90 Build

Ok the cats out the bag!!im going supercharged .its a 3800 gm m90.i need lots of help as im a nos guy.for starters my list of mods is in my signature.the guy im buying it from ran it on a stock tuned motor at 3psi.first question is what is the "safe" limit to run boost at?i know it is not ideal but i have a wide band O2 and will be doing tuning very soon.i also will be trying to have my company make a new lower intake mounting bracket on the cnc machine and have it taped for nos/water meth injectors/spray bars.i will also be getting a p+p unit from 3800 performance and stepping down on the pulley to try and run 8-10psi.what size injectors should i run for that?which fuel pump should i run?any suggestions on tuning?i was going to go mega squirt but i see sct has a new chip out,any suggestions?


DONE

ported and polished gm 3800 gen 2 m90
Water to air intercooled
port matched 76mm inlet and intake tube
mustang 75mm race tb
90mm maf
36lb injectors
255 fuel pump
sct 5bank dyno tuned
2.7" pulley 10lbs of boost!!;)
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dyno run,these was the last two pulls with the 2.7 and the alternator was bad.turn your volume down!!


and a 3.25 pull and think my rev is still set to 5000 in this one
 



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Sorry buddy, Im hearing the bad back thing everywhere. Tim was out of the count for a few days trying to do his truck, I was helping a neighbour take an old 36" tube tv downstairs and pulled my back on saturday, people from work not coming in beacuse of their backs. Ouch.

I hope you get better as fast as I did. Spasm's stopped by late yesterday. Now I just have a sore back, but can move just fine. Nothing like having the wind knocked out of your lungs with every spasm.

Great job on the dog leg. A bit of grinding and some putty and you are good to go.
 



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Nice repair job. Have a wobbly pop and relax that back.
 






Ill post a pic when its all done and painted.then i can hang my exhaust and ill post more detailed pics of that.lol im on some good stuff right now,cant feel anything but my back just a little;);)
 












well got alittle bit of work done today.finished the rocker,didnt go all out with finish putty or any thing.i just wanted to get it pretty close without wasting to much time on it,ill do some fine putty later on when i finish painting my truck.i got the switched power fuse power box in and wired.started raining so figured i would go cut my inlet plate for my charger and start cutting the lower mount to match my IC.tomorrow i plan to get the exhaust hung for the last time and plum my ic pump and heat exchanger.also the charger went out thur and got to the porter on Friday.said it should be done next week hopefully.pics;)
before
rustbefore.jpg

after
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50 amp switched power fuse box
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lower mount and inlet plate(waiting to get charger back to drill to hole in it)
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2012-05-05214053.jpg
 






Maybe you missed your calling, should have been a bodyman!
 






Maybe you missed your calling, should have been a bodyman!

o hell no i suck at body work.i have a new found respect for body men,its a art for sure
 






well exhaust is done.added two hangers today and it all fit like a glove.there is about 3/8 room for the frame and body..it should be plenty as this exhaust shouldnt move that much,motor and trans is solid mounted.i also tried to add some blue flames on it and thought they was coming out pretty good till it cooled.it just looks sloppy up close but from a distance it looks good;) all and all i think the exhaust and rocker or dog leg came out very good.i cant wait to hear it.i also got the ic pump mounted and plumed.i cut a good size hole behind the head light and cut a 1/4 hose down the middle and put around the sharp edges.so im pretty much ahead of the game for now.all i can do is finish up mounting the gauges and wiring them.i just hope the charger comes back from the porter ASAP!!
finishedex.jpg


fininshedex1.jpg


fininshedex2.jpg


fininshedex3.jpg


fininshedex4.jpg


hole behind the headlight
icpump.jpg


icpump1.jpg
 






Just thinking outloud here while looking at your exhaust work....

Ever think of going turbo on your next build?
Looking at the power thats coming out of these turbo's with low iat's, it seems to be a great way to go. Also, if you can do a good job of running exhaust pipe, there is a few very experienced guys here that are very helpful.

I was just looking at 2006 ford explorer with the 4.0 sohc 4x4 in Cottondale, AL for $11,000. I wouldn't think rust would be much of an issue there.
Just dreamin of an upgrade, but really thats not much money. Wouldn't be long before some form of forced induction could go in to that baby.
 






Just thinking outloud here while looking at your exhaust work....

Ever think of going turbo on your next build?
Looking at the power thats coming out of these turbo's with low iat's, it seems to be a great way to go. Also, if you can do a good job of running exhaust pipe, there is a few very experienced guys here that are very helpful.

I was just looking at 2006 ford explorer with the 4.0 sohc 4x4 in Cottondale, AL for $11,000. I wouldn't think rust would be much of an issue there.
Just dreamin of an upgrade, but really thats not much money. Wouldn't be long before some form of forced induction could go in to that baby.

Hell Explorers with sohc and bad head gaskets or chains go for under a $1000 around here.personally have seen a bunch. I dont want a sohc or second gen.next project is going to be a 347 crate motor with a m112 ranger or twin turbo 4.0 stroker(2wd)
 






well exhaust is done.added two hangers today and it all fit like a glove.there is about 3/8 room for the frame and body..it should be plenty as this exhaust shouldnt move that much,motor and trans is solid mounted.i also tried to add some blue flames on it and thought they was coming out pretty good till it cooled.it just looks sloppy up close but from a distance it looks good;) all and all i think the exhaust and rocker or dog leg came out very good.i cant wait to hear it.i also got the ic pump mounted and plumed.i cut a good size hole behind the head light and cut a 1/4 hose down the middle and put around the sharp edges.so im pretty much ahead of the game for now.all i can do is finish up mounting the gauges and wiring them.i just hope the charger comes back from the porter ASAP!!



hole behind the headlight
icpump.jpg

Surprised noone joked me for my license plate;) i kno its corny but had to do it;)
 






Nice! I waas focused on your handiwork with the rads. I think its ok, as most people would have no clue what the plate means anyway.

Ya, I think you should go turbo next, for sure.
 






Nice! I waas focused on your handiwork with the rads. I think its ok, as most people would have no clue what the plate means anyway.

Ya, I think you should go turbo next, for sure.

Really leaning towards the crate motor and m112. I can do that for half the price and make double the hp
 






really? I figured turbo was the way to go for real power. What do I know??
 






really? I figured turbo was the way to go for real power. What do I know??

I can get a 347@350hp for around $3000 and a m112 kit around $2000 and could make 500+hp very reliable.i cant even think about build a v6 for $3000 and turbo kits normally are more involved,so that mean more money.hp would still be couple hundred less,you just cant make 500hp reliable in a v6.i would do twin turbo also so talking even more money just to have a really fast and cool ranger.as soon as im done with trans swap,dual shocks up front and paint,im starting this project;)
 






I can get a 347@350hp for around $3000 and a m112 kit around $2000 and could make 500+hp very reliable.i cant even think about build a v6 for $3000 and turbo kits normally are more involved,so that mean more money.hp would still be couple hundred less,you just cant make 500hp reliable in a v6.i would do twin turbo also so talking even more money just to have a really fast and cool ranger.as soon as im done with trans swap,dual shocks up front and paint,im starting this project;)

The stock 5.0 engine block is not going to like trying to hold 500+ rwhp. If you want it to hold that much and still be reliable then you will need to invest into an aftermarket block which will raise the price figure on that build. Usually 450rwhp is the critical limit before you literally start to crack the engine block itself in half starting in the piston valley at the lifter guides.

You can build a V6 to take 500+rwhp and be reliable. It has been done before with the 4.0 SOHC's and I am willing to guess that someone has done it with the OHV's too; though neither are commonly pushed that far by most folks. I am currently collaborating with another well known member on this board to build his Explorer Sport to around that power level with a built engine, trans, and TT's. If you put the effort in with coordinating with the manufacturers to see what they already have that will almost fit and then talk to your local machine shops you would be surprised what can be accomplished. I am not saying that building a 4.0 Explorer V6 to that power level is for everyone but it has been done with success.
 






The stock 5.0 engine block is not going to like trying to hold 500+ rwhp. If you want it to hold that much and still be reliable then you will need to invest into an aftermarket block which will raise the price figure on that build. Usually 450rwhp is the critical limit before you literally start to crack the engine block itself in half starting in the piston valley.

You can build a V6 to take 500+rwhp and be reliable. It has been done before with the 4.0 SOHC's and I am willing to guess that someone has done it with the OHV's too; though neither are commonly pushed that far by most folks. I am currently collaborating with another well known member on this board to build his Explorer Sport to around that power level with a built engine, trans, and TT's. If you put the effort in with coordinating with the manufacturers to see what they already have that will almost fit and then talk to your local machine shops you would be surprised what can be accomplished. I am not saying that building a 4.0 Explorer V6 to that power level is for everyone but it has been done with success.
Im talking aftermarket crate motor.pushing a 4.0 to that level would be at the max it could go and reliability would be a concern for sure.the cost of even getting a 4.0 there is outrageous too,just to get it to make 350hp na would cost a fortune.im aware of the member your talking about;) i really only want to build one v6 and its in my Explorer and it has been very expensive and a PIA!!for the ranger i want a v8
 






Im talking aftermarket crate motor.pushing a 4.0 to that level would be at the max it could go and reliability would be a concern for sure.the cost of even getting a 4.0 there is outrageous too,just to get it to make 350hp na would cost a fortune.im aware of the member your talking about;) i really only want to build one v6 and its in my Explorer and it has been very expensive and a PIA!!for the ranger i want a v8

The aftermarket crate motor will still use a newer stock Ford engine block if you are only paying $3k. $3k for a 347 crate motor is on the cheap side and what you would normally pay for a decently built 347 shortblock. I can assure you that you will not be getting an aftermarket block thrown in for that $3k price tag and thus it will not hold past right about 450, even on a rock solid tune. Hell for that cheap of a price you might not even be getting forged internals. I have built a few FI and N/A 5.0's in the past and have a pretty decent grasp on what they can and cannot do. You are being entirely way too optimistic if you believe you can hit 500+hp on a crate motor 5.0 with forced induction and have it be reliable while only costing around $5k. You may be able to hit that power safely and for that cheap if you yourself bought all of the parts including an aftermarket or pre-82 block, had it machined locally, and assembled the longblock all yourself. But it won't happen with you paying someone else to assemble that longblock.
 






The aftermarket crate motor will still use a newer stock Ford engine block if you are only paying $3k. $3k for a 347 crate motor is on the cheap side and what you would normally pay for a decently built 347 shortblock. I can assure you that you will not be getting an aftermarket block thrown in for that $3k price tag and thus it will not hold past right about 450, even on a rock solid tune. Hell for that cheap of a price you might not even be getting forged internals. I have built a few FI and N/A 5.0's in the past and have a pretty decent grasp on what they can and cannot do. You are being entirely way too optimistic if you believe you can hit 500+hp on a crate motor 5.0 with forced induction and have it be reliable while only costing around $5k. You may be able to hit that power safely and for that cheap if you yourself bought all of the parts including an aftermarket or pre-82 block, had it machined locally, and assembled the longblock all yourself. But it won't happen with you paying someone else to assemble that longblock.

Point still being you can build a v8 to have more power reliable for less than a v6.really i would like to stuff a 351 with sc;)ps you are right about the block for the $3k motor.ford racing crate motor is upwards of $7000 but puts out 415hp
 



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Point still being you can build a v8 to have more power reliable for less than a v6.really i would like to stuff a 351 with sc;)ps you are right about the block for the $3k motor.ford racing crate motor is upwards of $7000 but puts out 415hp

That point, and how it relates to the Ford V6 and V8 engines, was never being debated as I see it. I agree that the V8 will have more potential than the V6. But with a Ford OHV V8 variant there are still a few major things that need to be considered to make that power and do it reliably.
 






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