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3rd gen sway bar quick disconnects

NHarris

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Maybe just use a grade 8 bolt of around that size and drill a hole through it for a pull pin.

I hope a grade 8 will be strong enough to handle all the tension on that sway bar.

Maybe a donor sway bar can be experimented on... Hmm.... I have an idea, but I'd have to go to the drawing board first.
 
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Ronin8002

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I hope a grade 8 will be strong enough to handle all the tension on that sway bar.

Maybe a donor sway bar can be experimented on... Hmm.... I have an idea, but I'd have to go to the drawing board first.

I bet the bolt would be fine if you went with a 3/8 or bigger grade 8. Welds on the coupler that connects the two sides would need to be good and strong since that would be the other potential failure area.
 
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NHarris

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I bet the bolt would be fine if you went with a 3/8 or bigger grade 8. Welds on the coupler that connects the two sides would need to be good and strong since that would be the other potential failure area.

Really all I would think it would need is a decent thickness sleeve with two holes drilled in it that go through the sway bar. Then with the bolts in place the sleeve acts as the sway bar, disconnected (or just one side) the sleeve doesnt move with the sway bar. Of course a pin will be needed in the center of the sway bar to keep it from trying to split.
 
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Ronin8002

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Really all I would think it would need is a decent thickness sleeve with two holes drilled in it that go through the sway bar. Then with the bolts in place the sleeve acts as the sway bar, disconnected (or just one side) the sleeve doesnt move with the sway bar. Of course a pin will be needed in the center of the sway bar to keep it from trying to split.

that would probably work too. bolt one side of the sleeve thru a hole drilled in the swaybar, and have a strong clevis pin or another bolt through a similar hole on the other end that you would remove to do the disconnect.

It would just mean you have to drill through the swaybar vs welding the coupler on. prob not too hard if you have a drill press.

If you used a cutting tool that makes a wider cut (like a grinder) vs say a band saw that would probably give you a little bit of separation between the two halves so they don't grind together when offroading.

Just a matter now of finding the right sized piece of steel tube to use as a coupler.
 
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NHarris

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Lots of ideas; someone just needs to try this out, then maybe I can copy.

Looking at my set-up and testing it, I dont think the sway bar hitting a tire is going to be an issue. Especially if one link is still connected (which I will probably do). I probably will go do some flexing with it to test it.
 
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Ronin8002

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Let us know how the 1-link thing works out...if it goes well then I think that's the easiest option.

Biggest area of concern would be when one side is stuffed and the other side is fully drooped out...the swaybar might touch the LCA on the stuffed side in that situation but just need to try it and see.
 
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NHarris

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Let us know how the 1-link thing works out...if it goes well then I think that's the easiest option.

Biggest area of concern would be when one side is stuffed and the other side is fully drooped out...the swaybar might touch the LCA on the stuffed side in that situation but just need to try it and see.

I'm headed off to start testing it soon. I'll be back with pictures and results.
 
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NHarris

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Some pics.

Sway bar disconnected on one side only.

sw1.jpg

sw2.jpg

sw7.jpg

sw3.jpg

sw4.jpg

sw5.jpg


And right back where its supposed to be after flexing.
sw6.jpg
 
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skysthelymyt

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If you are going to disconnect one side, I would take the end link out completely to avoid it being hit on up-travel when flexing. I think it would work then. Very nice work. :thumbsup:

Btw, what website did you go to when you ordered these parts?
 
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Ronin8002

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If you are going to disconnect one side, I would take the end link out completely to avoid it being hit on up-travel when flexing. I think it would work then. Very nice work. :thumbsup:

Btw, what website did you go to when you ordered these parts?

Agree. Looks like it should work out pretty well otherwise. Thanks for posting the pics!
 
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Triton8273

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I think he only disconnected one end of it to show the flex.

This is Nate were talking about. Of course he's going to remove it completely when he gives the truck a good workout.
 
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NHarris

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I think he only disconnected one end of it to show the flex.

This is Nate were talking about. Of course he's going to remove it completely when he gives the truck a good workout.

Exactly right! :thumbsup: I didn't want to disassemble the whole thing for just a picture. If I was running a trail, I most definitely would take the whole thing out; reason for both ends (of the end link) being quick disconnects.
 
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NHarris

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If you are going to disconnect one side, I would take the end link out completely to avoid it being hit on up-travel when flexing. I think it would work then. Very nice work. :thumbsup:

Btw, what website did you go to when you ordered these parts?

Fat Bobs Garage has the the brackets, any auto parts store will have the end link.
 
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rangermidtn

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Fat Bobs Garage has the the brackets, any auto parts store will have the end link.

I am on the Fat Bob's site, and I can not find the brackets.
 
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NHarris

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You'll have to call on these. They're a whole sway bar kit, just this is part of the kit
 
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Triton8273

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Yea, I'm not gunna pay $40 for those when it cost me $18 for a replacement end link lol
 
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skysthelymyt

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Is it holding up well?
Does it hit/rub your spindles at full lock?
 
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