3rd gen sway bar quick disconnects

[NHarris]

This isn't really another discussion thread on how to do it. This is how its done :
This was my spur of the moment project. All parts are for a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee.
Special thanks to Fat Bob's Garage for helping me get the parts to do this.

Mods: This photo is on the EF server.

I don't feel this really needs a how to, but I can list all the parts I used.

MOOG Sway bar end link for 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4X4
Rough Country Suspension part # 9311BK
--Made for Jeep Grand Cherokee, labeled at Ford F250 sway bar link bracket.--
I only found that part through FBG.
Clevis Pins

Watch out for the brake lines as they get really close to the sway bar. I used a plastic cover (like on many wires on the vehicle) to protect the line from the sway bar rubbing it.

All parts made in the USA, so don't feel guilty about buying.

Hope this inspires some of you guys to do similar,
-Nate



NOTE: This only works on lifted 3rd gens. And I am not responsible for any damage done to your rig due to this mod.

 

[Kazer]

Nice!

 

[xplorerguru]

This works? Wouldn't the pivot points want to well pivot?

 

[Triton8273]

Are these the same size as our stock end links or longer?

 

[NHarris]

This works? Wouldn't the pivot points want to well pivot?

Yes it works, and Ive driven 25 miles on em so far with no issues.

It works as good as these similar second gen ones...

Stock length ( stock height, TT, with or without body lift)

With 4" suspension lift

Are these the same size as our stock end links or longer?

Longer. I would not suggest doing this unless your 3rd gen is lifted at least 1.25".

Body roll has become minimal as the sway bar is in a very "relaxed" position. A lot better handling lifted than stock height, just to throw that in...

 

[Triton8273]

Longer. I would not suggest doing this unless your 3rd gen is lifted at least 1.25".

Then they are exactly what I need.

 

[NHarris]

Then they are exactly what I need.

If you have the time to wait, I'd personally suggest the adjustable ones along with the Rough Country kit listed. Then you could adjust sway bars to your liking.

And make sure to get the adjustable clevis pins from Lowes or Home Depot, or the hardware store.

 

[Triton8273]

If you have the time to wait, I'd personally suggest the adjustable ones along with the Rough Country kit listed. Then you could adjust sway bars to your liking.

And make sure to get the adjustable clevis pins from Lowes or Home Depot, or the hardware store.

Yea I have the time to wait lol...I actually broke an end link last week. Went to NAPA and bought a new one right away lol

 

[NHarris]

Yea I have the time to wait lol...I actually broke an end link last week. Went to NAPA and bought a new one right away lol

Thing too, if you go with this one, less chance it will break as its metal and not plastic. Not trying to sell you on this mod, just pointing out a fact.

 

[Triton8273]

Thing too, if you go with this one, less chance it will break as its metal and not plastic. Not trying to sell you on this mod, just pointing out a fact.

I was already sold bud.

 

[NHarris]

I was already sold bud.

Glad to hear you're sold on it!

I remember a lot of people wanting these, so I figured (after a lot of research) I would give it a try.

 

[KPPCExplorer]

Does your sway bar bounce around when the end links are off? I ran no end links for a day than put them back on because the sway bar was flopping around and smacking my frame and cv shafts.

 

[NHarris]

Does your sway bar bounce around when the end links are off? I ran no end links for a day than put them back on because the sway bar was flopping around and smacking my frame and cv shafts.

Haven't ran it with no sway bars. Maybe the next phase is to build something to hold the sway bar in place.

*edit: could just use zip ties to hold it in place?

 

[Wills05xlt4x4]

Haven't ran it with no sway bars. Maybe the next phase is to build something to hold the sway bar in place.

*edit: could just use zip ties to hold it in place?

I love zip ties lol

That said I don't think you can flip it anywhere that the tire won't be punctured by a hard turn thus you would have to still pull the sway bar off.....
Would love to hear otherwise...

 

[Ronin8002]

I love zip ties lol

That said I don't think you can flip it anywhere that the tire won't be punctured by a hard turn thus you would have to still pull the sway bar off.....
Would love to hear otherwise...

I think you're right.

Looks good so far Nate. Maybe weld in a set of clevis pins that stick out where the bracket bolts normally go? Then you could pull pins and drop the whole bar out really quick.

 

[Ronin8002]

I just had an idea. What about just disconnecting only one side of the swaybar?

In theory I would think that way the bar would still be held in place by the connected side so it wouldn't totally flop around....but since the other side is free, the swaybar would just move up and down while offroading...so it would be like it's not even there.

Thoughts?

 

[NHarris]

Hmm.... I will have to think on something to drop the sway bar completely; would make changing out the bushings a walk in the park. I would think doing two modified weld on mounts (like for limiting straps) would be good enough along with a groove cut into the sway bar frame mount would work well.

Honestly, I'd like to see people do this idea to create other versions. In a sense proving it can be done can lead to better versions. I eventually plan on swapping these out for adjustables, incase I ever return to stock (for selling purposes).

 

[Ronin8002]

A really cool setup would be if you could somehow cut the swaybar in the middle and have a collar or something that would keep both sides connected for road driving, but could be removed to allow each side to flex independently offroad. Then the end links could stay in place since each half of the swaybar would move only with each separate side of the suspension....essentially it would be like it wasn't there at all.

Take that a step further and figure out how to get a solenoid or linear actuator to do the locking/unlocking of the center part and you could have electronically disconnectable swaybars :smoke:

 

[Wills05xlt4x4]

A really cool setup would be if you could somehow cut the swaybar in the middle and have a collar or something that would keep both sides connected for road driving, but could be removed to allow each side to flex independently offroad. Then the end links could stay in place since each half of the swaybar would move only with each separate side of the suspension....essentially it would be like it wasn't there at all.

Take that a step further and figure out how to get a solenoid or linear actuator to do the locking/unlocking of the center part and you could have electronically disconnectable swaybars :smoke:

that's pretty much what I've been toying with trying to do ...

I know the new dodge power wagon come with electronics disconnecting sway bars


cut out a center piece of sway bar and weld in two pieces 1 male 1 female and a strong as hell pin to lock them together

 

[Ronin8002]

that's pretty much what I've been toying with trying to do ...

I know the new dodge power wagon come with electronics disconnecting sway bars


cut out a center piece of sway bar and weld in two pieces 1 male 1 female and a strong as hell pin to lock them together

I just found out that some of the Jeep Rubicons also have the electronic thing similar to what I described. A quick look shows that you have to buy the whole swaybar setup with it and it runs over $1500, lol. So your idea is probably the way to go.

think a 3/8" pin would be strong enough? Or 7/16"?

Maybe just use a grade 8 bolt of around that size and drill a hole through it for a pull pin.