How to: 4.0 Harmonic Balancer - know when it's going bad & how to fix

[Kaze]

There is about an 1/8 inch difference on the length of snoult and where the bolt engages the threads of crankshaft. When you are pulling the old balancer you will run out of threads on bolt. I used a light hammer to finish sliding the old balancer off. When I was installing my new balancer I just kept tapping and checking to see if I could start the old bolt back into the crank threads. REMEMBER!!!! you can not let the crankshaft to rotate backward. I used crankshaft locking tool from my cam timing tool set to lock balancer while loosening the balancer bolt.. I used a chain wrench to hold balancer when torqueing the bolt.

What kind of damage can be caused if the crankshaft rotates backward (or forward for that matter)? I just did mine and I did allow it to rotate backwards. Just wondering if I inadvertently created another, bigger, issue.

 

[sabasigh]

I had a chirp develop in my 2005 4.0 Explorer...led me to this thread. The tensioner had a pretty good bounce, so I replaced the idler, tensioner and belt. The rattle at idle is reduced, but haven't driven it yet.

The tensioner doesn't bounce and looking at the HB, i don't see the belt moving off it's grooves. However, I do see a bit of rubber protruding between the inner/outer ring.



Does this look like it would be a bad HB?

*ok went for a drive and the chirping is still there, though it appears to be only when the AC is on.

 

[awhite4307]

Is it necessary to change the keeper key when changing the harmonic balancer?

 

[MercGio26]

Had this issue 2 years ago belt was riding on the rubber part squeaking like crazy. Not sure how long I rode with it like that but it was a good two weeks or more, kept soaping the belt to stop the squeaking (stupid I know but it worked). I actually saw an older thread in here back then with the same issue which prompted me to look at it in more detail. Took it to my mechanic next morning and he replaced it for the newer version cost $250 parts and labor.

That was 2 years ago, have 86,000 miles on my '04 now (bought used back in '07 with 45,000 miles) truck has been very reliable in my near 7 years of ownership. Use Castrol Syntec (now Edge) every 5,000 miles, routine maintenance has done it. Outside of this I must have spent maybe $2000 on repair bills, tires, brakes etc..

 

[jpedi001]

New to the forum and have done a lot of reading already. After reading through the harmonic balancer issues I believe mine is shot as well. 2004 explorer xlt 2wd 140,000 miles.

I have some questions before starting. How do I know that cylinder 1 is at compression TDC? Is it absolutely necessary? Has anyone gotten deal quotes to do this?

 

[Explorer0204]

04-05 years have a weight/ring inside the pulley that becomes loose, you can feel it loose when you reach inside in the pulley itself and cant be seen.

Engine sound: http://youtu.be/xbRqTjEVjEE

That is what that sounds like. Mine has this weight rattling around. I'm going to replace it ASAP.

 

[grocerygitter]

I had all the symptoms of a bad HB, including a symptom thats not listed. My check charging system light and message center didplay and beep would flicker on and off at times for a long time, other times it wouldnt come on at all. After replacing the HB i havnt had the symptom again. My HB looked fairly good with the belt on but once I removed the belt the whole assembly slid apart with no resistance. I am figuring that since the HB was completely separated that it would allow slippage while driving which would stop the alternator from turning thus causeing the beeps and message center display. Thanks for all the knowledge and help that this forum has been

 

[sabasigh]

I had a chirp develop in my 2005 4.0 Explorer...led me to this thread. The tensioner had a pretty good bounce, so I replaced the idler, tensioner and belt. The rattle at idle is reduced, but haven't driven it yet.

The tensioner doesn't bounce and looking at the HB, i don't see the belt moving off it's grooves. However, I do see a bit of rubber protruding between the inner/outer ring.


*ok went for a drive and the chirping is still there, though it appears to be only when the AC is on.

Arggh this truck is killing me. You know it's bad when you have a folder that you save Word Docs for your shop drop off notes.

 

[jjr329]

Nevermind. The holes for the puller on mine were rusty and crusty. I used the shorter bolts from the pulley kit and some WD40 and cleaned them out. Then the longer 8mm x 1.25 100mm long bolt work.

 

[IsleOfMan]

My question relates to an '06 Mountaineer 4.0L, but the procedure looks to be identical. I've seen plenty written about how to remove the Harmonic Balancer and even found one youtube video, but I've not seen much on how to re-install it. The youtube video I found was for a complete replacement but completely glossed-over the installation portion.

How to you generate the force necessary to press the HB back on the crank? Once seated to you just ratchet-down the retaining bolt and then torque to spec? This is the biggest question mark I have about doing this myself.

On a side note, how are you guys holding the crank in place? Through the transmission inspection plate, TDC tool, double-wrapping the old belt around the HB/Tensioner/Alternator/Fan-Pulley, or some other method?

I'm still doing the analysis on doing this myself vs. a trusted local mechanic... looks it'll be ~$350-$400 for him to do it, vs ~$150 in parts and tools for me. Thoughts?

Thanks in advance!

 

[jjr329]

I did the double wrap of the belt when I did my HB.

 

[LeprechaunLiam]

Guys, harmonic balancer failed/broke on me this morning at 3 AM on my way to a job site...I can't believe all this time I also thought it was just a squeaky belt needing replacement. I've read a couple of the other threads that 2000StreetRod listed in his original post in this thread and thought this was the best place to ask for help/advice. My balancer looks like the first photo in 2000StreetRod's second post here. I've removed the fan and fan shroud and have pretty easy access to the balancer, but can't get the TTY bolt to budge. So a couple of questions (I'm seeing conflicting evidence across the threads and just want to be safe):

1. Is the harmonic balancer the entire assembly (inner section and outer section together) or is it just a particular section (hoping to learn something here)?
2. Does anyone know why both the inner and outer section are ribbed/is this just a legacy part where the inner section was used for something else (just curious here) - when I looked at my belt before it broke, the belt had been angled/on the inner section; I should have picked that up, but hindsight is 20/20, right?
   
3. If I turn the harmonic balancer/pulley clockwise and counter-clockwise via the TTY bolt before removing, is there potential to cause any damage here to any shafts/timing components?
4. Based on what I read, the TTY bolt loosens when turned counter-clockwise, right?
5. All the photos and videos I see applying the harmonic balancer removal tool show the outer section of the harmonic balancer removed - does this come off with the TTY bolt? Otherwise, I don't see how to screw in bolts so removal tool has leverage?

Got a quote of $300 on this with parts/labor (pretty good price based upon what I've read - so may end up taking it in), but I'm trying to use this as a learning experience too. Thanks in advance...

UPDATE: got it done at a shop for $250; if anyone has any answers to my questions though, much appreciated.

 

[239]

Guys, harmonic balancer failed/broke on me this morning at 3 AM on my way to a job site...I can't believe all this time I also thought it was just a squeaky belt needing replacement. I've read a couple of the other threads that 2000StreetRod listed in his original post in this thread and thought this was the best place to ask for help/advice. My balancer looks like the first photo in 2000StreetRod's second post here. I've removed the fan and fan shroud and have pretty easy access to the balancer, but can't get the TTY bolt to budge. So a couple of questions (I'm seeing conflicting evidence across the threads and just want to be safe):

1. Is the harmonic balancer the entire assembly (inner section and outer section together) or is it just a particular section (hoping to learn something here)?
2. Does anyone know why both the inner and outer section are ribbed/is this just a legacy part where the inner section was used for something else (just curious here) - when I looked at my belt before it broke, the belt had been angled/on the inner section; I should have picked that up, but hindsight is 20/20, right?
   
3. If I turn the harmonic balancer/pulley clockwise and counter-clockwise via the TTY bolt before removing, is there potential to cause any damage here to any shafts/timing components?
4. Based on what I read, the TTY bolt loosens when turned counter-clockwise, right?
5. All the photos and videos I see applying the harmonic balancer removal tool show the outer section of the harmonic balancer removed - does this come off with the TTY bolt? Otherwise, I don't see how to screw in bolts so removal tool has leverage?

Got a quote of $300 on this with parts/labor (pretty good price based upon what I've read - so may end up taking it in), but I'm trying to use this as a learning experience too. Thanks in advance...

UPDATE: got it done at a shop for $250; if anyone has any answers to my questions though, much appreciated.

Mine is chirping when I press on the gas. It'll chirp when taking off from a stop or even when only raising the RPM by 100. I changed the belt and couldn't find any bad pulleys. I'm gonna check the balancer soon to see if I can get it to wobble. Did yours chirp all the time before failing? At 17 years old, I think it might be time I replaced it.

 

[Oceanographer]

We know to buy a new Harmonic balancer / Crankshaft pulley Bolt since it's TTY.
I would like to share the Torque Specs from my Ford Service Manual ($12 digital copy from Ebay) for tightening the bolt. This is accurate for my '05 Explorer 4.0L at least. I found conflicting info on these forums so here's what Ford says:

Install the bolt in 2 stages:
Stage 1: Tighten to 33 ft-lbs
Stage 2: Tighten an additional 85 degrees

The part number for the bolt is E7RY-6A340-B. It costs $9 at dealership.
The service manual also lists part numbers for specialty tools for removing the crankshaft pulley and reinstalling but many people have figured out their own way. It says to remove the power steering fluid cooler (mine was banged up after mechanic did this job since I didn't have time) and use a strap wrench to hold the pulley in place.
If you have a mechanic do the job, make sure they get a new Bolt and updated Harmonic Balancer design. I already had the harmonic balancer but forgot to pick up a bolt, so my mechanic reused the TTY bolt. This is why I'm looking up torque specs because they will install the new bolt for free tomorrow.

If you notice the Harmonic balancer spinning out-of-round or wobbling, IT'S TIME TO REPLACE IT!!! I thought I would have more time but within 3,000 miles of noticing the slight wobble, my harmonic balancer separated and destroyed the crankshaft position sensor. I was lucky it slipped backwards and didn't do more damage. Somehow the belt jumped from steel outer pulley onto the rubber inner and stayed there! Engine failsafe mode kicked in and the car died completely within seconds after the position sensor was destroyed. I bought the new Ford balancer for $100 from an online Ford dealer. It's definitely an upgrade to the old design.