4.0 replaceing rear guides by removing the camshaft | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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4.0 replaceing rear guides by removing the camshaft

joe van

Member
Joined
May 12, 2019
Messages
19
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City, State
Miami
Year, Model & Trim Level
2004 explorer xls
I want to replace rear chain guide without loosening timing bolt on the back of the cam. can i remove the camshaft bearing caps and tilt the cam up and slide the chain off. then install my new guide 4L2Z-6M290-AA and then put it all back together? my front timing chain is tight and no rattle. any advice thanks.
 



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The lower cassette bolt is only accessible by separating the motor from the trans to gain access to the bolt. There’s a good YouTube by Cloyes that goes over the process. You can use an engine lift bar and simply shift the motor forward without removing the motor which will give you access. If you remove the motor you can gain access to the rear main seal to replace it while the motor is removed with a few more steps. Besides timing I haven’t figured out an easy way to align the bolts for the torque converter to the flex plate. It’s a pain. Good luck.

Edit: you can buy separate timing tools vs the full OTC timing set if you feel you have a way of securing timing at TDC. It’s a lot easier to ensure proper timing with all the work your putting into the project by having all the timing tools.
 






I will remove the transmission to get to the bolt behind the bell housing. Is it possible to remove the cam with the r/rear sprocket attached (so it doesn't go out of it's correct position) ? If it comes out from under chain. I am not replacing chain. Then I would insert the new chain guide. Then the only concern would be positioning the cam with the sprocket back to it's original position on the chain. I don't mind taking a chance. I bought the vehicle for $400 and it's good shape except for this valve train issue.
 






I don’t think it’s possible. There isn’t much play and there is almost no room to get to the rear cam bolt without the otc tool to remove and install the bolt let alone torque to yield, unless you make one. But you said you plan on keeping this bolt attached.

The chain would have to come off to allow for the guide to be dropped into place. That’s going to be the issue.

I assume you plan on removing all roller followers before attempting to endeavor on the cam removal? It sounds iffy at best based on my experience although I’ve only done this job a few times with all the timing tools. I still don’t think you’ll be able to move the cam off the seats based on how little play you’ll have to work with plus there wont be much of a way to angle the cam. It’s a tight tight chain fit. It’s really snug.

If you buy the cam locking tool, the tdc harmonic locking tool, and the tensioner tool on eBay you could ensure proper timing.

I think you’ll know ASAP if your plan will succeed by removing the tensioner, roller followers, and the cam shaft caps to see if you can move the cam at all with the chain on. But I seriously doubt it.
 






Thank you for your insight. I haven't even considered the cam followers, rollers. I have to remove the transmission any way,if so this short doesnt work I will continue on the the job by removing the engine.
 






Does someone know the tool number to compress the valve spring so I can remove the cam followers. Is it this one T97T-6565-A 303-581? Would this oemtools 24434 work ?
 






Mine doesn’t have a part number stamped on it and I think it’s the T97T-6565-A 303-581 tool.
 






I can't work on the vehicle till after the 10th on this month. Henry Ford would not have approved of this engine. I owned a 1974 Mercury Capri with a Cologne German v6. It was a 2.8 liter with timing gears on the frt. Simple and indestructible. We are heading in the wrong direction. I am a 40 year experience fleet mechanic. Some off the stuff they put on cars should be outlawed.
 






The Cologne engine has some history. Your post made me chuckle. I needed that.

Edit: the cam bolts that hold the timing chain sprocket to the cam are torque to yield. Ideally you replace them after you remove or loosen them. Please don’t forget to replace the washer for each of the two tensioners. If the gasket/washer fails or gets out of place, the ensuing oil leak from the tensioner will be significant upon startup.
 






I started working on the 4.0. I am only working on the right side. I removed the cam followers with oemtools 24434. Then took the cam caps off. I removed the hydraulic tensioner . And tried to remove the cam with the sprocket still bolted on. "You Can't" ! there is not enough slack to go up past the cam bearing towers. I painted and scribed some marks on the cam ,sprocket and chain and removed the top sprocket lock bolt. So now the r/s cam is off, I still have to remove the transmission.
 






Or you can remove the starter and unbolt the torque converter then shift the motor forward with a support bar or hoist. That’s what I did vs removing the trans.

I didn’t have access to a hoist the last time I had to change the rear guide and chain.
 






Don't you have to remove the transmission because it covers the torx bolt at the bottom piviot
the guide? By remove I mean separate and push back enough to get my hand in there.
 






i gave up on doing a reseal and timing components with the engine still in. the engine is out and on a engine stand.
 






Or you can remove the starter and unbolt the torque converter then shift the motor forward with a support bar or hoist. That’s what I did vs removing the trans.

I didn’t have access to a hoist the last time I had to change the rear guide and chain.
Is that easier than removing. The whole driveline? I am in process of dropping stuff now and there has to be a better way, but where it’s at right now I can’t get a cherry picker in so I figured next bet would be to pull the tranny
 






what ever your asking, the engine needs to come out . i left the trans in the car. i hate doing extra work but in this case take the engine out. to redo the timing chains ,guides and reseal....sorry
 






When I had to replace my rear guide I did it with the motor out, marked the camshaft and sprocket, then marked the chain and sprocket. Removed the sprocket to cam bolt and zip tied the sprocket and chain to the chain attaching the motor to the hoist. Replaced the guide and lined the marks back up. Didn't have to remove the camshaft.

IMG_20190415_151426650.jpg


IMG_20190414_185832481.jpg
 






Tshaw: Are you saying that you did not need to re-time the engine?
 






Sorry for the delay things have been a little hectic. No I did not have to retime the engine. I made sure my marks were all lined up PERFECTLY. I also took my sweet time and went real slow with it all lol. But I didn't need to retime it or buy the special kit to lock the pulleys in place.
 



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Wow. Thanks for the update
 






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