4.0 SOHC Rear Timing Chain Tensioner Oil Leak

[krispy97xlt]

Well,

I have been fighting an oil leak from the passenger side head on my 01 Sport Trac (4.0 SOHC). It manafested itself as a burning smell once the engine was
fully up to temp. No puddle was shown under the car, as the oil would just land on the passenger side exhaust manifold and burn off while driving.

I first just snugged the tensioner and cleaned up the visible oil.

The leak vanished for a few days, then I noticed the burning smell again,
crawling back under the car I noticed that the tensioner was seeping oil again.

I had to travel away on business so I parked the explorer, and ordered a replacement part from flea-bay.

This new tensioner came in, and I pulled the old one and replaced it with the new one, including the metal o-ring.

I snugged it down to about 40 ft-lbs. Later that day, I crawl back under the truck and sure enough it was leaking again.

So I back off the torque re center the washer (metal ring) and torque again this time to about 50 ft-lbs.

This time I start the engine to inspect for leaks, nothing at idle, and nothing when I rev to 3k rpm. Sweet. No leak!

Put the wheel liner back in, put the wheel back on. Park it for the night, after driving the next day. Boom: Leak is back.

So that brings us up to today. I have ordered 2 OEM ford crush washer (gasket/o-ring whatever) XU2Z6M252AA at 9$ a piece to see if I can stop this oil leak.

What am I missing here?

This seems like a poor design where the sealing surface and the oil inlet hole are way to close to one another.

All my friends are telling me to just keep topping of the oil and let it leak, but I am not one to let problems go unfixed (unless it was a rear main leak or something )

Any tips or input would be helpful....

-Chris

 

[krispy97xlt]

Well after working on this for the better part of my evening, replacing the washers and tightening the bejesus out of this tensioner I thought I had fixed the leak.

Crank the engine, look for leaks, none found, kill engine, re install wheel well liner. Check for leaks once again.....crap. Leak is back.

This time however I cleaned off the oil and started the engine again, waited for the idle speed to drop down to normal and went back to have a closer look.

Now it appears the leak is coming from ABOVE the tensioner at the valve cover. It isn't very visible as it is firmly attached to the side of the head. Once it hits the tensioner it gathers and forms the "drop" that I had been seeing.

Well on to another thread to find out how hard it is to change the RH valve cover gasket...

 

[2000StreetRod]

compression ring drops

I suspect that the compression ring is dropping out of place when the tensioner is screwed in. I used wheel bearing grease to hold the compression ring in position while screwing in the tensioner. Make sure the sealing face of the head is not marred or burred. If using a new washer/compression ring torque the tensioner to 32 ft-lbs. If reusing the old washer/compression ring or none torque the tensioner to 49 ft-lbs.

 

[krispy97xlt]

I suspect that the compression ring is dropping out of place when the tensioner is screwed in. I used wheel bearing grease to hold the compression ring in position while screwing in the tensioner. Make sure the sealing face of the head is not marred or burred. If using a new washer/compression ring torque the tensioner to 32 ft-lbs. If reusing the old washer/compression ring or none torque the tensioner to 49 ft-lbs.

Yep, got all of that taken care of, found all of that in a previous thread that you had posted in.

I did the best job I could in cleaning the mating surfaces of both parts, and used some wheel bearing grease (from a tub I have around) to hold the washer in place.

The cleaned area:

Note that after replacing the tensioner and running the engine I found a slight oil colored haze above (not below) the tensioner:

After further inspection this is coming from the valve cover gasket leaking at the rear of the head.

Any tips on replacing this gasket? Do I need intake gaskets as well?

Also, I assume when I purchase the valve cover gaskets they will come as a pair, so I guess I should do the other side while I am at it?

Lets hope that when I pull my valve cover it doesn't look like yours when you first opened up! Sometimes previous owners suck!

 

[2000StreetRod]

intake manifold

As I recall your Sport Trac has an entirely different upper intake manifold - more like the 3rd generation. It may not be necessary to remove the manifold to swap the valve cover gaskets. Have you tried tightening the valve cover bolts? My valve cover gaskets are rubber and I reused them with no leakage. Maybe they have just shrunk with age and tightening could correct the leak.
Felpro valve cover gasket sets include the upper intake manifold gaskets for builds thru 07/23/2000.

 

[krispy97xlt]

Well I got "inside" last night to have a look. Removing the valve cover was kind of a pain in the rear. The most difficult thing to do was to removing all the coolant lines related to the heating system. I had just had many of them off a few weeks ago when I was replacing the thermostat housing and radiator.


After the cooling lines were clear, I spent quite some time perched on top of a cooler reaching down into the engine bay trying to release the fuel injectors. This required me to use some "hook" type picks I had to un-clip both sides of the injector. All said it took me about 1.5 hours last night to pull it down, this was after the front tire and wheel well liner were removed from previously chasing this oil leak.

This is what it looks like underneath the valve cover:

'

No need to disturb the intake (on the passenger side atleast)

I am thinking I should replace my spark plugs while I am in here. They say motorcraft platinum on them so I ASSUME they are original (100K miles on the truck).

Anything else I should do while I am in here?

 

[2000StreetRod]

broken guide

The internals look good (no sludge buildup) but the top of the rear guide is missing. It should straddle the upper positioning post.

 

[krispy97xlt]

The internals look good (no sludge buildup) but the top of the rear guide is missing. It should straddle the upper positioning post.
View attachment 75623

In your picture it is shown on the left correct? In my picture it would be on the right.

Good eye and Crap.

What can I do about that short of a timing chain job? I am guessing it can't be performed from this state of dis assembly.

 

[2000StreetRod]

replacing right cassette

There are only two ways to replace the right cassette: pull the engine or pull the transmission. Pulling the transmission is less work than pulling the engine but requires working in restricted space (between block and firewall) under the vehicle while replacing the cassette. I prefer pulling the engine. It is probable that your guide assembly is broken near the lower pivot.

Even the new (improved) guide assemblies incorporated in 2002 and later vehicles don't have metal reinforcement on the traction side of the right assembly. Mine was broken in multiple places.

I eventually found all of the larger pieces. I'm surprised you don't hear start up chain rattle. Usually, the chain will slap against the upper positioning bolt and slowly wear it down. The danger of not replacing the guide after it breaks is that a piece may lodge between the chain and the head causing the chain to slip or break. Since the SOHC V6 is an interference engine the pistons can strike the valves bending or breaking them. Also, small pieces may clog an oil passage although usually they are trapped in the oil pickup screen.

 

[krispy97xlt]

No chain rattle to speak of. Engine seems to run smoothly without any abnormal sounds.

I am really getting sick of dealing with this truck. It has been one small ish thing after another.

If it comes to me having to remove the engine or trans I am just going to patch it back up and sell it. I am mechanically inclined but I purchased this truck specifically so I wouldn't have to work on something every week (like my last car).

 

[krispy97xlt]

Well, After thinking about the situation. I really just need to fix this and move on.

2000Streetrod, I read your thread on engine removal and it doesn't look like something I want to tackle unless it is absolutely needed, I am thinking removing the transmission will give me the needed access to this rear area.
I understand I cannot do a full timing chain job but i would be able to replace the guide and rear chain components at the same time I guess.

Will the newer improved guide assemblies from a newer engine fit in this late 01 model?

What parts will be needed for this repair? Are they available separately as a "rear kit"

 

[2000StreetRod]

removing the transmission

. . . I am thinking removing the transmission will give me the needed access to this rear area. I understand I cannot do a full timing chain job but i would be able to replace the guide and rear chain components at the same time I guess.

Replacing the rear cassette by removing the transmission isn't bad if you have access to a shop lift and several members have done it. Using jack stands is possible but more unpleasant. There was a thread that I haven't been able to find this morning with photos on doing it that way. Below is one photo I saved giving you some idea of the work area.

Since there is very little space between the firewall and the right camshaft sprocket you'll need the OTC-6488 timing tool kit.

One of the special tools allows torquing the sprocket retaining bolt with the engine installed. You'll need to remove the oil pan to clean out the guide pieces in it and the oil pickup screen.

Will the newer improved guide assemblies from a newer engine fit in this late 01 model?

Yes. The old style (prior to 2002) parts are no longer available and if found should not be used.

What parts will be needed for this repair? Are they available separately as a "rear kit"

Almost all of the aftermarket kits advertised on ebay are total kits. You can no longer purchase just the guide assembly. You have to purchase the entire cassette (chain, sprockets, & guide assembly). You can get them from your local auto parts houses (Advance Auto, Auto Zone, O'Reilly's, etc.) for about $110 but I think the one from Ford is superior (PN 4L2Z6M290AA $91.36 + S&H from Tasca or Tousley Ford online). You'll have to purchase the jackshaft rear plug and the upper positioning bolt (if worn) separately. I can't remember if the jackshaft rear sprocket retaining bolt is torque-to-yield. If so, you'll need one of them.

For more information: SOHC V6 Rear Cassette Replacement

 

[krispy97xlt]

Thanks for all your help.

I have called a local mom and pop shop for an estimate of what the job would cost.

They told me $652 for the labor. That seems like a good deal vs buying these tools and spending my time on the fix.

Is 4L2Z6M290AA the full kit minus the jackshaft plug and positioning bolt?

Also remember I have a balance shaft in the engine since I am repairing a 4x4.

Is there a good way to tell the improved 02+ design vs the old? Should I just order a kit for a 02+?

Any way to ensure that they do the full job and not just some patchwork fix? I guess I could ask for all the old parts...

 

[2000StreetRod]

Make sure they are experienced

. . . I have called a local mom and pop shop for an estimate of what the job would cost. They told me $652 for the labor. That seems like a good deal vs buying these tools and spending my time on the fix.

Make sure they have the OTC-6488 timing tool kit. Ask to see it and if they have successfully done a replacement before. The timing instructions can be misinterpreted and some shops have timed the camshafts incorrectly resulting in valve damage on start up. I assume the price is only for the transmission removal & installation, rear cassette replacement and timing. Make sure it includes pan removal and broken pieces retrieval.

Is 4L2Z6M290AA the full kit minus the jackshaft plug and positioning bolt?

Right/rear timing chain cassette assembly 4L2Z6M290AA includes:
Timing chain
Guide assembly
Sprocket/gear-camshaft
Sprocket/gear-jackshaft rear

You'll also need:
Right timing chain guide assembly upper postioning bolt F77Z6U000BA if worn from the chain slapping it.
Cover assy/rear of block jackshaft opening plug F77Z6026AB
Gasket-lower oil pan 4L2Z6710AA year 2000+ if not reusable

Also remember I have a balance shaft in the engine since I am repairing a 4x4.

The balance shaft is independent of the right camshaft timing components. However, there is always the possibility that the balance shaft tensioner or the primary chain tensioner has failed. If any metal particles are found in the oil pump then one of the above has failed.

Is there a good way to tell the improved 02+ design vs the old? Should I just order a kit for a 02+?

Any way to ensure that they do the full job and not just some patchwork fix? I guess I could ask for all the old parts...

If you buy the parts from a Ford dealer you will only get the latest components.

 

[krispy97xlt]

Thanks for pretty much spoon feeding me the information I need. I really do appreciate it. Saves a bunch of time looking up P/N etc.

I am unsure if they have the correct tool for timing the engine. That is an important question to ask.

So looking at the parts you have shown above this is just fixing the area on my truck that is broken. Generally is that all that is necessary?

I think the shop quoted me labor for replacing the whole timing setup (front and rear or left and right however you want to look at it)

If that is the case does ford sell a "kit" that includes all the stuff for the whole job?

I see this post of yours but it obviously includes parts I don't need (camshafts for instance)

Listed below are Ford part numbers for SOHC V6 timing chain related components. I try to keep this list current. Two possible discount online Ford OEM suppliers are tousleyfordparts.com and tascaparts.com

Jackshaft/primary timing chain kit 2U3Z6D256CA includes:
Crankshaft bolt harmonic balancer E7RY6A340B
Tensioner-engine jackshaft chain YL2Z6L266AA
Gasket-cylinder/timing front cover F77Z6020AB
Sprocket/gear-engine jackshaft/intermediate 2U3Z6M264AA
Guide-engine jackshaft chain 2L2Z6K297AA
Bolt-jackshaft sprocket bolt F77Z6M264BA superseded by 2L2Z6279AA (included when 2U3Z6M264AA is purchased)
Sprocket/gear-crankshaft two wheel drive 2L2Z6306BA
Chain-engine jackshaft F77Z6268AB
Bolt-camshaft sprocket right hand
Bolt-camshaft sprocket left hand F77Z6279BA

Left/front timing chain cassette assembly 7U3Z6A257A includes:
Timing chain
Guide assembly YL2Z6M273AA superseded by 7U3Z6A257A
Bolt-guide assembly upper mount
Sprocket/gear-camshaft
Sprocket/gear-jackshaft front

Right/rear timing chain cassette assembly 4L2Z6M290AA includes:
Timing chain
Guide assembly
Sprocket/gear-camshaft
Sprocket/gear-jackshaft rear

00M12 intake manifold kit YL2Z9E473AA includes:
Lower intake manifold gasket set of six YL2Z9461AA
Upper intake manifold gasket set of two YL2Z9E436AA
Left timing chain tensioner 7U3Z6K254B
Tensioner metal O ring XU2Z6M252AA
Oil restrictor
Galley plug

Right timing chain tensioner 7U3Z6K254A supersedes XU3Z6K254BA

Right timing chain guide assembly upper postioning bolt F77Z6U000BA

Jackshaft rear sprocket retaining bolt W703167S430

Cover assy/rear of block jackshaft opening plug F77Z6026AB

Left cassette assembly lower mounting bolt W500100S300

Jackshaft chain guide mounting bolt W500100S300

Sprocket/gear-crankshaft inner four wheel drive F77Z6306BE

Sprocket/gear - crankshaft outer four wheel drive 2L2Z6306AA

Balance shaft chain guide F77Z6K297BC

Balance shaft chain tensioner 1L2Z6L266AA

Balance shaft chain F77Z6268BC

Balance shaft assembly 1L2Z6A311AA

Seal-front timing cover E6TZ6700A was superseded by 5H2Z6700AA

Gasket set-valve cover F77Z6584AE

Gasket-lower oil pan 4L2Z6710AA year 2000+ F77Z6710BA year 1997-1999

Gasket-upper oil pan/reinforcement section F77Z6710AA

Left camshaft F7TZ6250AEE was superseded by 7L2Z6250D

Right camshaft F77Z6250AE

Exhaust manifold outlet bolts (M12-1.75X54.5 H) N811747S2

I am all about having the best quality parts (and I too usually feel that OEM is the best for OEM application) but having it in a kit may be simpler in terms of parts ordering.

 

[2000StreetRod]

complete kit

As far as I know, Ford (unlike aftermarket suppliers) does not sell a complete timing kit. If the shop plans to install a complete kit they will pull the engine instead of the transmission. $650 for labor to install a complete kit is extremely reasonable. Make sure they know what they're doing. The labor just to swap the engine is usually more than that. Some members have had good luck with a few of the aftermarket kits: SOHC V6 Timing Chain Parts Sources

 

[krispy97xlt]

Well the first shop that quoted me the $650 price has backed out since they realized they need a special tool. They did say they would R&R the engine if I wanted for 750.

So I guess I am back to square one.

Another shop quoted me 1600 for the full job, or 1000 for the labor only. But if I supplied the parts there was no warranty.

 

[2000StreetRod]

not experienced

As I suspected, the first shop has no experience with timing the engine. Timing the SOHC V6 requires exactly following the procedure and understanding what the procedure is describing. For that you need a shop with Mustang, Ranger or Explorer SOHC V6 experience. I wouldn't trust the job to anyone else.

Swapping an engine is simpler but in your case may not be justified. Some members have purchases low mileage Mustang engines from salvage yards (the price is reasonable since most Mustang owners want the V8). However, there are some external differences so a lot of the original engine external components must be exchanged. If you purchase a 2001 Explorer engine it will either be high mileage or will have sat in the yard for a long time. High mileage engines have the same risk of timing chain problems. Engines that have sat for a long time may have all of the fuel injectors clogged and the rings may have rusted to the cylinder walls.

 

[krispy97xlt]

As I suspected, the first shop has no experience with timing the engine. Timing the SOHC V6 requires exactly following the procedure and understanding what the procedure is describing. For that you need a shop with Mustang, Ranger or Explorer SOHC V6 experience. I wouldn't trust the job to anyone else.

Swapping an engine is simpler but in your case may not be justified. Some members have purchases low mileage Mustang engines from salvage yards (the price is reasonable since most Mustang owners want the V8). However, there are some external differences so a lot of the original engine external components must be exchanged. If you purchase a 2001 Explorer engine it will either be high mileage or will have sat in the yard for a long time. High mileage engines have the same risk of timing chain problems. Engines that have sat for a long time may have all of the fuel injectors clogged and the rings may have rusted to the cylinder walls.

Well, according to the owner of the shop, they had some experience with the engine, however it was bad. I think they ended up having to replace the engine due to timing issues. So they didn't want to try it again and also purchase the tools.

I have found another local shop that comes recommended by some of my car buddies. They are wiling to do the work, they are charging 1k for labor but honestly this job is beyond my comfort level. Have I done a timing belt job before, yes. Have I removed rebuilt, and replaced engines yes. But all of those activities were on my project vehicles, not my DD. I don't enjoy working on something that doesn't net me any performance benefit.

Anyway, I am going to start another thread regarding maintenance to be performed while the engine is out.

Thanks again 2000Streetrod for all your help.

 

[krispy97xlt]

Need a response ASAP please!

So I bolted the valve cover back up and reconnected all my hoses. Basically I am putting things back together to take the truck to the shop that will perform the work next week.

I started the engine up to see what it sounded like. It started fine and did its normal high idle I assume to heat the cats faster. Once the idle dropped back to normal range I could hear the guide rattling around. I must have moved it a bit when I was poking around in there and now it isn't in the same happy spot it was before I started this ordeal.

My question is this: Can I drive the 9 miles to the shop that will do the work or should I call a tow truck?