4.0 sohc timing chain tensionor? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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4.0 sohc timing chain tensionor?

Sprocket1

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Year, Model & Trim Level
1997 Explorer XL Autotrac
I have read every possible page pertaining to my 4.0 sohc engine timing chains over the last 2 - 3 weeks! Decided to take my front timing cover off and left valve cover. Only trouble I found was primary chain tensionor had no "tension" left in it. I replaced both tensionor and guide. While apart I installed the hydraulic tensionor on the left front head. Maybe it's also referred as the M0012 kit? Anyway every thing went well until I started it. Loud rattle from left front vavle cover. Tore it back down and found that the tensionor was dry? No oil went into it. Brand new, washer was in place when I tourqued it. The oil restrictor was already in place. I decide to take the restrictor out to inspect it. Nothing wrong or broke. Put tensionor back in without restrictor to see if it would get or "load" with oil. Still rattle after start up. Took tensionor out again and still dry- no oil to it. Question is do I drop the tensionor in oil to help load it with oil? Like an old hydraulic lifter to get the air out? I only let the engine run for a minute or two thinking it should pressurize by then? Don't know what to do now?! Any suggestions? THANKS.
 



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tensioner piston test?

Did you test the hydraulic piston movement in the left tensioner before installing it? Is it an aftermarket part or OEM? Some members who have purchased aftermarket parts had a seized piston in their tensioner. If it was seized in the retracted position there was no tension of the chain from the guide assembly. If it was seized in the extended position it broke the guide assembly on start up. I compress and release my tensioners with my thumb to make sure they work before installing them.

Are you sure that the rattle is from the timing chain and not from a cam follower? If the engine sits for a while with no oil the oil in the cam followers drain and there is valve clatter at engine start. It takes about 20 minutes running the engine at mid range to replenish the oil in the cam followers.

When you replaced the primary (crankshaft to jackshaft) chain guide did you install it correctly? There is a tit on the rear of the guide that plugs an opening in the oil channel across the front of the block to the oil pressure switch port.
JackKeep.jpg

Does your oil pressure register on the instrument panel?
 






Hey 2000, Yes I can push the piston in and out with my thumb. It's a nice pconstant pressure in and out. The tensionor that I took out was a little harder to compress but it was loaded with oil. It's a Ford part direct from my dealer. The engine had been shut off for 2 weeks. So I am guessing that the oil is drained down from the followers? I did have the primary guide pin inserted into the block. No problem other than it seems to be taking a long time to put oil into the tensionor? Maybe I just need to let it idle for a while until the oil gets circulated? I have had it running 2 or 3 times , but no longer than 3 minutes before I shut it off. Just nervous to run it when it is noisey? I know the front cassette is all in tact as I took the valve cover off again and can see it all there. I can pivot the cassette a bit when the tensionor is out. Looks good there.
 






Also, my oil pressure gage comes up immediately after start up. I always have used 5w30 synthetic and the engine is really clean inside.
 






It takes about 20 minutes running the engine at mid range to replenish the oil in the cam followers.

it is relly possible? 20 minutes is really long time. I'm searching solution for problem with SOHC engine. We just finished changing complete set of engine timing (chains, timing chain tensione, gaskets, new oil pump and other stuff)

After start there is a problem with engine lubrication. Oil is delivered only to one cylinder head. Other head is dry and tensioner is not working.

I just found your post and started thinking to try keep engine running for 20 minutes but I'm affraid that I will damage it.

sorry for my english - if I wrote something wrong . I don't have to many occasions to use it.

desperately searching for help :(
 






only one head

it is relly possible? 20 minutes is really long time. I'm searching solution for problem with SOHC engine. We just finished changing complete set of engine timing (chains, timing chain tensione, gaskets, new oil pump and other stuff)

After start there is a problem with engine lubrication. Oil is delivered only to one cylinder head. Other head is dry and tensioner is not working.

I just found your post and started thinking to try keep engine running for 20 minutes but I'm affraid that I will damage it. . .

The twenty minutes is for the hydraulic lash adjusters not the hydraulic timing chain tensioners. Your engine should have oil flow out of the camshaft oiling tube above the camshaft on both heads within seconds after engine start. If you only have oil at one head don't continue to run the engine. Maybe one of the oil ports within the engine is blocked by something. Do you have oil pressure at the oil pressure switch?

Edit: I just noticed that you have a 1994 Explorer which is the OHV V6 instead of the SOHC V6 that my comments pertain to.
 






Maybe one of the oil ports within the engine is blocked by something. Do you have oil pressure at the oil pressure switch?

Edit: I just noticed that you have a 1994 Explorer which is the OHV V6 instead of the SOHC V6 that my comments pertain to.

Hubie is talking about my SOHC 99 explorer :)
After rebuilding timing and starting the engine - the oil pressure gauge shows about 5 bars (when engine was running).
Now, when we opened valve covers and engine is driven only by starter (no fuel and ignition) - oil pressure gauge shows about 1,5-1,8 bars, but still no oil in tensioner oil tube.
 






I just noticed that you have a 1994 Explorer which is the OHV V6 instead of the SOHC V6 that my comments pertain to.

Yes I do ;) For over 6 years I have 1'st generation Explorer and trying to keep it running ;)
SOHC 2'nd gen is my best friend car.

We tooked engine out

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this part was broken. Probably was never changed from the day when car was new.

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this is part of parts which was changed

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fl4ubXyi5NmtOdMxWCiQ3DrJpnmMe0SGVDiss=w496-h664-no.png


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CgGCLLr6bk_0_s1MHbpI9yTsMZ8d4bpo2PiD8=w929-h694-no.png


Ib73_OyUINOMqXOgwwffs3tS88Or6TDeG7po0=w929-h694-no.png


t4eaNR3ZlJ51OqWHZrfZHuzc_3QRi1UrUCPyM=w929-h694-no.png


After whole work we mounted engine back to the car and it started without any problems. Only sound of noisy chain was heard.

We tooked valve covers out. There was oil on head from the passanger side and tensioner was opened. Other head (from the driver side) was dry and tensioner wasn't opened

Maybe one of the oil ports within the engine is blocked by something.

yeah.. but how we can find it? :(

We was trying to unblock oil lines with compressed air but nothing changed.

We let the air in to hole marked with red arrow. Hole where normally is tensioner (small hole inside marked with green arrow) was blocked by my thumb ;) Air easly comed out from the place where oil filter is mounted.
When we blocked hole from the oil filter side air comed out somewhere from head - this one which is dry (on the driver side).

7136QdtYic5Opc-9PPvAgkHWhkoKtRD075T_0=w518-h693-no.png


Could you point where we should search for blocked oil ports and how we could unblocked them?

here is engine overhaul gallery

thanks for any help ;)
 












The oil passage runs under all the lash adjusters and through each front cam bearing. Its a very small space so timing chain debris can clog the passage. If you pull the rockers out you can pull the lash adjusters strait out buy slowly twisting them. If you pull the cam out you can clean the passage top to bottom with brake parts parts cleaner though the front cam hole. Make sure to clean the oil rail too, those tiny ports clog easy
 












briefly

- one head is removed (on the driver side)
- engine was driven by the starter - still no oil on the channel that deliver oil to head
- we took guide out and tried to clean oil channels with thin wire - no result
- we replaced guide (with this small tit on the rear side of it) with old one - stil no result

- during all those test we dismounted jacshaft sprocket and mounted back again... and miracle was happend - suddenly we had oil on the channel that deliver oil to head

question is - what happend? :scratch:

it is possible that there is something wrong with jackshaft bearing?

 






jackshaft drives oil pump

There is a spiral gear at the rear of the jackshaft that rotates the intermediate shaft that drives the oil pump. I doubt the jackshaft was the problem because there would be no oil pressure at both heads instead of just one. If you cranked the starter while the primary chain guide was removed that provided another outlet for oil flow to discharge particles. The same is true for cranking the starter when the head was removed. The poking with wire may have also dislodged particles blocking flow. Hopefully all of the particles are flushed out. Congratulations!

edit: did you clean all of the particles out of the oil pump pickup screen?
 






Hopefully all of the particles are flushed out. Congratulations!

yeah, I hope so too :D
problem is that we didn't found even one tiny piece of anything that could possibly stuck on oil way.

edit: did you clean all of the particles out of the oil pump pickup screen?

we didn't checked pickup screen after this unexpected miricle ;) but for sure we will right after the engine will be taken out once again :cool:
 






we didn't checked pickup screen after this unexpected miricle ;) but for sure we will right after the engine will be taken out once again :cool:

pickup screen is clear, also engine oil and oil pan is clear :) no particles found. Real miracle :)

The jackshaft and bearings are in good condition:
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Great news that the oil started to flow! The thing with my trouble when I removed the primary timing chain guide I knew a piece broke off but I could not find it. The floor was dirty and I thought that the piece rolled somewhere. It wasn't until I had everything back together and after initial start up that I found out I had no oil to the left (driver's side) tensioner. Tried old tensioner and didn't help. Beat my brain trying to figure it out and then I thought the only other thing is that the broken piece was still in there. Sure enough it was ! I have had it back together now for a couple of weeks and man it runs nice..smooth ...no rattling at any time at all! I only had rattle at start up but now it's gone. Thanks again for everyone's help!
 






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