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I want to use a HD type tensioner for the front. I am going to study options and I am watching this thread to see who does what next. 2 pictures below.
 



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exten6.JPG
exten7.JPG
 






Good news mate, looks like us old young guys are tenacious enough to find fixes that all the smart arses at ford couldn't do.

I've thought a lot about your new tensioner and it really isn't too different to me starting my truck after pre oiling, hydraulic pressue being pretty solid as you have now. That being said I'd be suprised if you have any rattle at cold start up from rear tensioner.

That front tensioner is a pita to take out, so many things in the way as you say. My guess is the front tensioner probably isn't rattling, it's the primary tensioners ( jackshaft to crank ) that cause problems/noise.

All nuts bolts etc are metric & well done.
 






My Wife is happy with the way it sounds now. One step closer to getting her back in it and me back in to "MO the 5.0"
 






My Wife is happy with the way it sounds now. One step closer to getting her back in it and me back in to "MO the 5.0"
Can you post a vid of what it sounds like now thanks
 






I don't have video capabilities but this morning it cranked up smooth and quiet and by the time that I got to work I had forgot that I had worked on it. Smooth and quiet !
 






Congrats chalk it up as fixed

We have found a permanent fix
We have been looking for like 20 years
You had the balls to be the first to try the manual tensioner

Thank you
 






Thanks :burnout:
 






Makes me wonder what Ford's thinking on the hydraulic tensioners was. Do you suppose it was a way to automatically adjust for the inevitable chain stretch?

I hope this fix continues to work for you. If it does I may consider getting one (or two) of these devices. For now cranking the starter for few seconds before releasing the gas pedal pumps up my hydraulic tensioners. Please keep us updated.
 






Me to
 






Makes me wonder what Ford's thinking on the hydraulic tensioners was. Do you suppose it was a way to automatically adjust for the inevitable chain stretch?
It must be. Otherwise how often would manual tensioners need adjusted ? Or spring loaded/manual adjusters need adjusted or replaced?
 






Not very often
Far and few between

Unless you are a mechanic even then you do the adjustment once and a while
 






I will keep up with the mileage on this swap to see how long it takes to start hearing anything. I am a 1/4 to 1/2 turn tighter from where I was hearing it "telegraph" through the extention bumping the plastic inner liner
 






1/4-1/2 turn tighter is to tight tighten till the noise stops
to tight and you will kill the guides
I would say you got it tho
 






I have 25 miles on it so far, can I drive 9.5 before I loosen it ? I can't do it until tomorrow a.m. ?
 






I think you got it good GENERIC
INSTRUCTIONS

To set the tensioner adjustment, rotate the engine forward while screwing the tensioner bolt in. When you feel the engine tensioner parts (guide, rollers, etc.) make contact with the moving cam chain, back the tensioner bolt out 1/4 turn and tighten the jam nut.

DO NOT over-tighten the cam chain, as cam chain giude damage could occur. Be sure jam nut is tight against the tensioner body when complete.
 






Nicely done! Drivers side head requires removal of the upper intake plenum and the thermostat housing to install 98-03
In 04 they changed the upper intake to clear.

You can do it!
 






Nicely done! Drivers side head requires removal of the upper intake plenum and the thermostat housing to install 98-03
In 04 they changed the upper intake to clear.

You can do it!

I changed the front TC tensioner on my late production '01 ST (Job 2 SOHC) and I did not have to remove my intake plenum (which is 1-piece on the Job 2 engine and only held on with 4 bolts). I think I removed my throttle body and the push-in-style temp sensor & sender and had plenty of room.
 









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