4.0 SOHC was jerking at 55-60 mph , now stalling every 2-3 miles. | Page 3 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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4.0 SOHC was jerking at 55-60 mph , now stalling every 2-3 miles.

I was just asking if the cel is illuminated when the truck stalls… if it’s on then you have power to the computer
If the light is not on then it’s likely you are losing power to the computer… which is why we checked fuse 19

If 19 had corrosion on the pins then it’s likely the rest of them in the interior fuse
Box do too …
Hi . I removed the cluster trying to replace bulb and socket to make check engine light work but playing with different bulbs and sockets it did not work. I put everything back together. I try to find a good used cluster on eBay or local junk yards whenever I have time. I drove it today for 8 miles trip. It stalled couple of times, 2 times while driving and twice at idle. I also heard spark knock few times while accelerating. Is there anything else I can do or should I concentrate on fixing check engine light first? I will have some time next week to work on it. Is spot truck and explorer sport 2 doors have same cluster? They looks kind of identical. Don’t want to buy something that not fit. Thanks. Max
 



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Before we buy a different cluster let’s check for power to the light at the wire from the computer that powers the check engine light. I’ll get the wiring details posted

I have clusters if you need one or parts
The clusters are similar but there are changes year to year so have to make sure to get compatible one

We can help
Good work this far!
Check engine light is important for diagnosing stalling issues like you are having
 






awesome! Thank you. I will have time next week to work on it. Waiting for your post on wiring details. Thanks a lot. Max
 






Check engine light wiring for a 01
Sport

IMG_2823.jpeg


IMG_2822.jpeg


IMG_2820.jpeg


As you can see one side of the
Bulb is hot and has power from the battery through fuse f2.11 (or 2.2 depending on your Build date)

The other side of the bulb is illuminated when the pcm completes the circuit to ground through pin 9 at instrument cluster connector c220b. Wire is pink w light green

Now with your
Multimeter you can check those signals
 






Check engine light wiring for a 01
Sport

View attachment 457124

View attachment 457125

View attachment 457126

As you can see one side of the
Bulb is hot and has power from the battery through fuse f2.11 (or 2.2 depending on your Build date)

The other side of the bulb is illuminated when the pcm completes the circuit to ground through pin 9 at instrument cluster connector c220b. Wire is pink w light green

Now with your
Multimeter you can check those signals
 






I got PO340 code today. I got .004 VDC on that wire.I don’t really know how to use multimeter so I took a picture and posted what I did.l used the metal frame under the steering column for ground and I chose V mode on multimeter . Hope that made sense.

IMG_1416.jpeg


IMG_1415.jpeg


IMG_1421.jpeg
 






I got PO340 code today. I got .004 VDC on that wire.I don’t really know how to use multimeter so I took a picture and posted what I did.l used the metal frame under the steering column for ground and I chose V mode on multimeter . Hope that made sense.

View attachment 457161

View attachment 457162

View attachment 457163
PO340 code. Could I mess up with timing? Or is it a sensor? I never replaced this sensor. I used otc timing tool while was replacing guides . I think I drove it for couple of years occasionally and put around 2k already.
 












So the check engine light wire should have battery power + when the key is turned to on and until the engine starts. Then since you have a code it should remain hot until you turn the truck off, the power should go away if you clear the code and before it comeback

Basically if you have battery power here at the pink green wire then the issue with the bulb is on the cluster side of things. You can check the other side of the bulb
For
Continuity to ground
 






Check engine light wiring for a 01
Sport

View attachment 457124

View attachment 457125

View attachment 457126

As you can see one side of the
Bulb is hot and has power from the battery through fuse f2.11 (or 2.2 depending on your Build date)

The other side of the bulb is illuminated when the pcm completes the circuit to ground through pin 9 at instrument cluster connector c220b. Wire is pink w light green

Now with your
Multimeter you can check those signals
So the check engine light wire should have battery power + when the key is turned to on and until the engine starts. Then since you have a code it should remain hot until you turn the truck off, the power should go away if you clear the code and before it comeback

Basically if you have battery power here at the pink green wire then the issue with the bulb is on the cluster side of things. You can check the other side of the bulb
For
Continuity to ground
Hi . I can’t find fuse F2.11 . Is it in the fuse box under the hood? Central janktion
Check this out for your cam
Sensor code

hi . I checked connector on cam sensor when I started this tread. I didn’t test it for continuity or ground but I am positive that it connected to the right harness. I can’t find fuse f 2.11 . Is it in a fuse box under the hood? I found 1 mini fuse related to pcm ( 21 I believe PCM memory) it got 12 v on both sides. I took a picture of fuse box and will post it. I didn’t do all tests guy did in this article but I want to check if cam sensor itself works ( it’s as old as a car) and wire from sensor to connector on firewall. So to check the check engine light I got to find that f 2.11 fuse and check it. Could you please help me to locate it? What else can I do? I may have some time this week to work on it. Thank you for your help. Max

IMG_1489.jpeg
 






This is not to throw you off track, but what makes you think that is entirely an electrical issue? You may have two things going on. Have
you physically looked at the front side of the catalytic converters?
 






He’s just trying to fix the cel first but jumping around also trying to find the source of the code and the issue the engine is having

Fuse 2.11 is fuse 11 in the cjb
Central junction box is central or the one in the dash

The power junction box of pjb is the one under the hood. The cjb is the one in the dash… silly ford terms

See Here for detailed fuse info for 01
Sport and trac

 






HHe’s just trying to fix the cel first but jumping around also trying to find the source of the code and the issue the engine is having

Fuse 2.11 is fuse 11 in the cjb
Central junction box is central or the one in the dash

The power junction box of pjb is the one under the hood. The cjb is the one in the dash… silly ford terms

See Here for detailed fuse info for 01
Sport and trac

Hi . Thanks for clarifying. Fuse was blown. I replaced it. Still no check engine light. With ignition ON I got voltage on both sides 8.50 v.
 






@Maxmax19773 Has your 2002 been previously flooded? That would explain why you are having so many electrical issues.
 












hi guys. Need some help here.have 2 door sport 2001 4.0 SOHC . More details: new motorcraft fuel pump installed 3 years ago ( got whole unit from ra ), fuel filter replaced maybe 7 k ago. Got 2 sets of injectors trued them both to eliminate jerking. I did timing job and I guess it started jerking after that. Since I put set of injections from eBay when put everything back finishing timing job, I suspected them could cause jerking ( it starts at 50-55 and if I move my feet from accelerator and gently push it again it goes away. Same with when it runs on cruise control- pushing brakes and gently accelerating will fixes the issue. It’s not jerking on low speed. Starting at 50-55 . Now I have additional problem . It stalling in a few miles. Could stall while idling couple of times a months. Any idea what could be causing that ? You guys always helping Me out when I mess up) respectfully . Max in Houston

 






8.5V…something is up
 












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