woodco100
Active Member
- Joined
- September 2, 2009
- Messages
- 66
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- City, State
- Orlando
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 96 xlt rare 5 spd 4WD
Wow, finally done, took 3 weeks but it drives great!
I could not have done it without all the great threads and advice on this forum.
Too start, my Ex is a 1996 XLT 4wd, 5 speed. It is likely the rarest of the Explorers. I have only come across a few 4 door, 5 speed, 4wd vehicles. My had 3.55 open carriers. Plus the front is not engaging. Pretty embarrassing getting stuck on the beach surfing New Smyrna Beach inlet. Frigging Mustang had to tow me out.
I found a 2001 rear diff with the holy grail of 4L10. limited slip, 4.10 50 miles from my house for $250 cash. Lucky it was close by, I can imagine what is cost to ship a 175 pound item. I grabbed it.
The 95-96 4wd used a vacuum operated front axle. I got a good used unit with 3.73s off ebay for $200 delivered and grabbed a set of used 4.10s of the forum for $50. He gave me a discount for signing up to be an Elite member. Sign up now and save some money!
Another friend building a Cherokee need my original rear so he traded me some 31s on Jeep wheels for it. I traded them to a surfing buddy and he installed the 4.10s in the front diff and sealed it up. He works at a diesel/tranny shop.
Now comes the moment of truth. Do I pay some one to install it all or go for it. I have the motorcycle to ride in the interim, work is slow and I have a full shop at my place. I went for it.
The rears is pretty straight forward. Jack it up on good stands and block the front wheels. NEVER get under any vehicle that is not properly secured. I always place backup stands also. Drop the shaft at the rear end (12mm splined 3/8 socket) pull the wheels. Next the calipers, zip tie them to the frame. Pop off the brake lines and tie them up. No need to open the brake system. Not a bad time to bleed the system. Brake fluid start to brake down in about 2 years. disconnect the emergency brake cable, pop off the speed sender, shocks from the spring plates and disconnect the sway bar.
There is no set order for any of this, just keep working steadily. I used air tools when ever possible, 3/8 and 1/2 impacts. I make custom motorcycle seats that use lots of staples so I have a 220V, 6 hp, 60 compressor hard wired in the shop. I also work "in a bucket" which means nothing ever hits the floor. I use plastic trays and every nut, bolt and clip goes into one when it comes off. Makes it so much easier to find hardware during reassembly.
Jack up the rear end, drop the spring plates, (don't even attempt without an impact). Some guys cut the u bolts, but mine were relatively rust free. I soaked everything with liquid wrench a fews days before. Drop the springs at the rear shackles and it should drop right out. Heavy sucker have a friend help. Movers caster carts are great for moving rear diffs around.
I stacked 2 4 ft 4x4 and set both rears on them. That allowed me to drain and fill as needed. The fluid in the new unit looked and smelled fine, but I drained and filled with 6 pints of Royal Purple Synthetic LS hypoid. $20 a quart! Backing plates were a little banged up from the scrap yard. Easy fix with a hammer, dolly and cresent wrench. Slid the rotors on and spun it to test.
New unit went in reverse of what I just did. a few things to note. I used new drive shaft bolts from Ford. Pre locktited, I was going to change the universals but they showed no wear at all. I left the stock speed sensor, I have not test the speed accuracy yet. I am running 31s. The speedo has not really worked well in years. Odometer quit years ago at 170K.
I took a chance by not resealing the donor unit, but it showed no sign of leakage any where. I have been told the syn fluid my actually clean out debris in the seals and cause leaks. I will keep an eye on it. Also, always locktite brake hardware.
A lot of guys will install lift spindles or add a leaf with this job to get 1-3 inches of lift. Call me old school but I had installed air shocks years ago when I towed a lot. I checked the lines, they pumped up OK. So I left them. In the 70s when I started driving and building cars air shocks were how you raised your vehicle. I can get up to 3 inches of lift with these.
That should cover the rear swap. The front was more complicated and Biketoberfest fell in between the jobs.
I will pick up on the front soon and finish the post.
Best advice at this point...GO FOR IT!
I could not have done it without all the great threads and advice on this forum.
Too start, my Ex is a 1996 XLT 4wd, 5 speed. It is likely the rarest of the Explorers. I have only come across a few 4 door, 5 speed, 4wd vehicles. My had 3.55 open carriers. Plus the front is not engaging. Pretty embarrassing getting stuck on the beach surfing New Smyrna Beach inlet. Frigging Mustang had to tow me out.
I found a 2001 rear diff with the holy grail of 4L10. limited slip, 4.10 50 miles from my house for $250 cash. Lucky it was close by, I can imagine what is cost to ship a 175 pound item. I grabbed it.
The 95-96 4wd used a vacuum operated front axle. I got a good used unit with 3.73s off ebay for $200 delivered and grabbed a set of used 4.10s of the forum for $50. He gave me a discount for signing up to be an Elite member. Sign up now and save some money!
Another friend building a Cherokee need my original rear so he traded me some 31s on Jeep wheels for it. I traded them to a surfing buddy and he installed the 4.10s in the front diff and sealed it up. He works at a diesel/tranny shop.
Now comes the moment of truth. Do I pay some one to install it all or go for it. I have the motorcycle to ride in the interim, work is slow and I have a full shop at my place. I went for it.
The rears is pretty straight forward. Jack it up on good stands and block the front wheels. NEVER get under any vehicle that is not properly secured. I always place backup stands also. Drop the shaft at the rear end (12mm splined 3/8 socket) pull the wheels. Next the calipers, zip tie them to the frame. Pop off the brake lines and tie them up. No need to open the brake system. Not a bad time to bleed the system. Brake fluid start to brake down in about 2 years. disconnect the emergency brake cable, pop off the speed sender, shocks from the spring plates and disconnect the sway bar.
There is no set order for any of this, just keep working steadily. I used air tools when ever possible, 3/8 and 1/2 impacts. I make custom motorcycle seats that use lots of staples so I have a 220V, 6 hp, 60 compressor hard wired in the shop. I also work "in a bucket" which means nothing ever hits the floor. I use plastic trays and every nut, bolt and clip goes into one when it comes off. Makes it so much easier to find hardware during reassembly.
Jack up the rear end, drop the spring plates, (don't even attempt without an impact). Some guys cut the u bolts, but mine were relatively rust free. I soaked everything with liquid wrench a fews days before. Drop the springs at the rear shackles and it should drop right out. Heavy sucker have a friend help. Movers caster carts are great for moving rear diffs around.
I stacked 2 4 ft 4x4 and set both rears on them. That allowed me to drain and fill as needed. The fluid in the new unit looked and smelled fine, but I drained and filled with 6 pints of Royal Purple Synthetic LS hypoid. $20 a quart! Backing plates were a little banged up from the scrap yard. Easy fix with a hammer, dolly and cresent wrench. Slid the rotors on and spun it to test.
New unit went in reverse of what I just did. a few things to note. I used new drive shaft bolts from Ford. Pre locktited, I was going to change the universals but they showed no wear at all. I left the stock speed sensor, I have not test the speed accuracy yet. I am running 31s. The speedo has not really worked well in years. Odometer quit years ago at 170K.
I took a chance by not resealing the donor unit, but it showed no sign of leakage any where. I have been told the syn fluid my actually clean out debris in the seals and cause leaks. I will keep an eye on it. Also, always locktite brake hardware.
A lot of guys will install lift spindles or add a leaf with this job to get 1-3 inches of lift. Call me old school but I had installed air shocks years ago when I towed a lot. I checked the lines, they pumped up OK. So I left them. In the 70s when I started driving and building cars air shocks were how you raised your vehicle. I can get up to 3 inches of lift with these.
That should cover the rear swap. The front was more complicated and Biketoberfest fell in between the jobs.
I will pick up on the front soon and finish the post.
Best advice at this point...GO FOR IT!
