410 fortune - 5.0L EFI 4R70W drivertrain conversion

[Yellowcard]

Yes that is the part I am talking about. It would be great if you could measure that for me.Thanks.

 

[rcpasq]

Yellowcard,

I have the housing I weld to the #4 tube of our Headers as well as the fitting itself. As I stated, it is a Ford part and can be purchased from any Ford Dealership/Parts Dept.

Bob Pasquale
Tech Performance & Engineering
Torque Monster Headers

 

[Yellowcard]

Thank you very much. That will make my life a whole lot ezer. Thanks agen.

 

[JS91X]

when you put the 5.0 in, i saw that you used a plate bolted to the intake, and isnt that intake aluminum ? well i heard that its not too good to pull a motor or put one in if it has an aluminum intake. did you have and warpage problems or anything with it ?

 

[410Fortune]

JS91X

Yes the upper intake is aluminum

I have pulled and installed many engines this way.
I did not use a plate actually, just 4 chains bolted to the lower intake manifold.
The lower intake manifold was later pulled off the engine and re-sealed

No warpage, I did not re-use the same bolts again however.

I am doing the same thing again with my 96 Explorer, this time the transmission is also attached to the engine.

I have never had any problems, however I have heard this is not the best method, a bolt in aluminum, but it works fine for me and also my friends, never had any problems.

All 4 chains have tension on them as well, the point of the engine cradle is to distribute the load and also allow adjutment for engine angle when pulling and stabbing.

Hope that helps!

 

[JS91X]

yea ive had the same problem with the tranny on a 5.0, actually it was last week me and a buddy pulled his dads 5.0 out of his f150 and we could never figure what was not unhooked on the tranny so we let his dad handle it...lol but we pulled it with a chain at opposite corners of the heads and we were just scared about pulling from the intake

 

[JS91X]

did you get your bumper from james duff ?

 

[410Fortune]

yes my front and rear bumpers are Duff "prerunner" receiver style bumpers.
I bought them years ago when Duff FIRST intorduced them.

The price has since doubled from what I payed for them.

they are STOUT.
I have dropped the front of my truck off a 5' rock flat onto the bottom of the front bumper, sheared off all the bolts and the bumper twisted up almost into the grill (I had some cheapo bolts in there then) No damage to the bumper.

the rear bumper I have used to tow more than #5000 with, it has been hit by two cars, and also has been dropped many many times off of ledges onto rocks. It has one small dent in the lower tube from all of this.

The Duff bumpers are VERY strong.

 

[410Fortune]

V8BoatBuilder,

Aaron I just wanted to say thanks again for the help you gave me during my conversion on the OBD-II codes and for recommending the laptop interface.
I recently got a new HP laptop and have been itching to get this sucker.
I have been driving the BII everyday and chasing two codes for a couple months now.

I just ordered the 97 explorer interface software and cable from OBD-2.com. I cannot wait to get it and install the software on my laptop. I imagine this will be a valuable tool for troubleshooting both of my trucks.
I also see dashboard display (replace ancient factory 88 gages) potential using a screen of some sort.

Awesome, thanks! We'll see whats really going on with my PCM and OBD-2 port (wiring is 90% currently) soon enough...

 

[Glacier991]

I haven't seen Aaron around much lately, or is he just hanging out in the seedier neighborhoods on here?

 

[410Fortune]

Dunno, maybe hes out making boats for the upcoming 06 season?

Anyways he'll read this someday

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

Jamie,

Thanks!! I really like having the laptop interface for "heavy-duty" OBD-2 diagnostics, and my Scangauge for a portable code reader/primative scanner that I can move to many different vehicles. Thank Chris too, because he helped me out when I was learning OBD-2.

I'm still around the boards, just not as much as I'd like to be with work and school taking much of my time. I thought senior year was the time to slack off?!??!? Nope... I need to get back to the garage and beat my driver's rear rotor off with a hammer and crowbar - that thing is stuck on bad (busted e-brake = no new inspection sticker on Monday)!

 

[410Fortune]

Okay update 012906:

I was fooling around with the BII yesterday. I was installing some power wires into my under hood power distribution box for my new 99 Eddie Bauer HEATED leather seats.

I was under the truck looking at my routing options for the new power wires when I noticed my drivers side L&L engine mount was missing the rear mount to block bolt.
Interesting I though since I had just been under the truck a week ago and thought I would for sure have noticed this getting loose.

The front bolt was also all the way OUT, but due to the design of the L&L mounts it was held in the hole by the mount connector centering bolt. (directly underneath it)

It took me a good 3 hours to replace both bolts. With the steering box and canton oil filter adapter right there in the way access to the front bolt was close to impossible. I was able to determine that the bolts I was using are too short by about 1/4" and figure this must be why they both came out on this side. The passenger side is still snug, and those bolts are both longer.

I was lucky to catch this before anything major happened to the mount/block/drivetrain or other mounts (other side, trans mainly)

So the moral is CHECK YOUR WORK!
I am about 12K miles into the conversion and never would have expected the bolts to come out now. I re-installed new bolts using grade 5 hardware, loc-tite and lock washers.

this of course put a slight delay in my heated seat install, I am hoping to complete it one night this week, but man they are going to be NICE!!!

Also I am still battling a small coolant leak. I have replaced the lower hose, all clamps, and checked everything about 4 times (clean, drive, look for leak) I still cannot determine the location of the leak, I have managed to slow it down/and or eliminate other leaks hahaha
the fan throws coolant everywhere so it is hard to pin point.

I still suspect my cheapo Pep-Boys 16# radiator cap, but fear it may also be an actual hole in the Ron Davis radiator.
The next step will be to clean everything up and get the leak detection dye kit.
Hopefully it is something simple.

If it is the radiator it will have to wait a few weeks until the explorer is running, then I can remove the tank and have it repaired, this is not a cheap or easily available radiator. Figures

 

[rookieshooter]

Heated leather seats, Nice.

Man I hope its not the ratiator. I remember when you drew up plans for that. That cost a pretty penny. Just wondering, is there a way to take fan blades off and start engine watching temp gauge and run up to operating temps. and then cut off engine and look for leaks. Without fan you might be able to locate leaks. I never done the dye thing.

 

[410Fortune]

I could but I have run it up to temp when it was leaving small puddles and nothing.
I still smell coolant once in a while and I am losing some slowly, very slowly, but its going somewhere....

I will try the dye kit next. I have cleaned everything and warmed it up and looked, I have done everything I know how to do to pin point a leak to no avail.
The dye kit should point it out quickly.
We shall see...

If it is the radiator I will have the hole fixed here in town, not a big deal, but yeah its not your run of the mill tig'ed aluminum nascar radiator you can just pick up down the street

Apprently Ihad a couple leaks, because it has def slowed WAY down.
In the past it has been my heater core, I think this is the 4th heater core I have put in this truck... last time I got a Ford unit, no more cheapo Checker lifetime warratny units. Funny thing was you could tell the difference, it was a totally different size and also just looking at the core you can see its the OEM unit, not the cheapo remaned made in China type.

 

[410Fortune]

Okay

I rented a coolant system pressure tester from Autozone.
I tested my 16# radiator cap and it works and seals just fine.
Then I applied about 8# of pressure to the coolant filler neck (pressurize the entire system)
A small leak started at the upper hose. A quick tighten of the hose clamp stopped that sucker.
The bad news is a MUCH larger leak started pouring out where the side tank of the radiator is TIG welded to the upper tank.
Called Ron Davis and they want me to ship the unit to them for testing/repair.

Down time is not something I have currently (one vehicle) so it will have to wait until I get the Explorer running.
For now I am going to install a 8# cap and just keep monitoring the coolant level.

The autozone pressure tester cost me $81 to rent, which I will get back when I return it. It took literally 5 minutes to locate a leak I have been chasing for about 2 months.
Excellent tool!

 

[410Fortune]

OKay update on the radiator situation...
Ron Davis will build me another one. However they want to charge me full price for it ($400ish). They said they would re-emburse me for the cost once they get my radiator back and confirm I took care of it and that its not my fault its leaking.
SUCKS
They are 6 weeks out on build time as well.
I dont have that $$$ nor the time for that right now.
So I put the rad back in the truck, installed a 7lb cap (lowers my boiling point, less pressure in the system) and a full bottle of BG Coolant System Stop Leak and conditioner.

It now leaks maybe a couple of drops in the last 3 weeks of driving around. My truck runs about 10 degrees warmer then it did before since the addition of the new cap and bottle of sealer. It's allright it runs right at 200-210 now, was like 195 after the thermostat opens.

I feel my radiator is mounted well, In fact it is mounted with four Gen II Explorer rubber pucks, completely isolated from the body. I am not sure I will be going with another Ron Davis unit, I will have to shop around. I dont want the same thing to happen again and be out another $400. I may actually remove my radiator core support on the BII and go all tube up front so I can use a cheaper aluminum unit.


Argh.

 

[Captain AirTime]

Ya, 400 bones is way too steep for a radiator. That should cover the tube to convert it AND a new CHEAP rad that you can find at any junkyard in a pinch.
I put a custom rad in with my 5.0L, and IIRC it was 250 CDN. not aluminum, but it cooled, and fit right inside the core support after some trimming. Sucks that they want to be dinks about it. Did you send them pictures?

 

[410Fortune]

He was polite, their product has a 90 day warranty for leaks.
The problem is I dont have another $450 to spend on a radiator that comes in 6 weeks and might do the same thing, and also might not get paid for.
For $450 I can figure something else out, using a radiator like you said that can be replaced for less then half......

My leak cannot be repaired as it takes place on the top of the side tanks on the radiator, the expert I took the unit to here in town called it a header leak. The leak is also on BOTH sides. Some manufacturers use epoxy to seal this area from the factory, apparently not the way to go. On this Ron Davis unit it looks as if the welds have failed. The Welds are internal and the aluminum must be cut to get access (my radiator is trash).

He recommended me a couple of aluminum tank builders that do not put them together the same as this unit, for perhaps cheaper. National radiator was one of them. He also said the leaks can be stopped or sealed with black pepper or tabbacco I had used the BG stuff before so I went that route, I expected them to slow down, but they basically stopped completely! So if it starts leaking again before I can replace the unit then I will add some more, I may try some black pepper though based on what he said. Sounds like its a miracle worker in the cooling system and it can be flushed out by removing the thermostat.


Summit has decent aluminum units I believe I can fit (sawzall) in my Ford pattern.
I can say with the all aluminum Ron Davis I have ZERO cooling issues, it is by far the best setup I have had for trans and water temps.

 

[rookieshooter]

The old McCormick spice trick, used it a few times. That's about as old school as you can get. Hope everythng works out. Or should I say stays in