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4406 swap questions...

5.0

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City, State
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Year, Model & Trim Level
'97 Ranger 5.0
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Searched and read for hours, now some questions:

I'm wanting to swap a part time manual shift t-case into my '97 Explorer. I'm also planning a SAS soon.

I have the VSS in my t-case...

So does that make a 1997 model year the only year I can get?

Does it have to be from an F150? Will an F250 work?

Does the engine in the donor truck matter? (I'm thinking NO)

What is the minimum amount of body lift required to clear the 4406 without denting the floor?





:navajo:
 



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I read the swap threads for MountaineerGreen, 410Fortune, '97 V8, and V8BoatBuilder. I don't recall seeing the minimum body lift required to fit a 4406, but it was a lot of reading and possibly I missed that part.

I found a manual shift 4406 at a local yard for $450. The price is a little more than I wanted to pay, but they take it out and I may get the shifter too. He's says he has one from a '97, but I guess I'll have to check for a speedo gear on the output shaft to be sure.



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Thanks. A small massage isn't bad, otherwise I would make a 1" body lift.
 












Good, because mine is lowered 2" and a body lift would look silly. I'd like to have a (properly working) CAD front axle for now, but it doesn't appear, from searching, that it would fit.

I learned today of a small snag in my SAS plan too... oh well. :(



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in my truck, the 4406 t-case fit with no floor denting required and fit past the stock catilitic converter.
 






Sounds good then, maybe mine will fit fine too.

I guess it's ok to have the front driveshaft always making the t-case front output turn, even when in 2wd? Do the '97 F150's have some sort of front axle disconnect? Or does the front driveshaft turn all the time?


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Ha ha
I also have a lowered 4406 --

I believe the disconnect is also discussed in Mountaineergreen's thread.
Use a 95 front IFS --
However-I think he said a lift is needed for this to fit.
 






Ya, it said I need a lift for it to clear the oil pan. Nothing can be easy it seems.

My AWD is still holding up just fine and I get 18.6 mpg with it, but a couple more mpg from this swap would be nice along with the "more power" feel.
 






My transfer case bolted in without any massaging...and I didn't even have to trim the lugs on top the case. But I did trim them anyway. Too close. Stock...no body lift.

As to disconnecting the front axle, I'm convinced you can swap to 98 to 01 Ranger front axles and bearings and use manual hubs. I'm going to look into that further once I recover from the total rebuild of the drivetrain I did. That won't be cheap. Axles will run you about $125, another $250 for bearing assy's, I think manual hubs are over $100...plus the little odds and ends you always end of needing on something like this.
 






As to disconnecting the front axle, I'm convinced you can swap to 98 to 01 Ranger front axles and bearings and use manual hubs. I'm going to look into that further once I recover from the total rebuild of the drivetrain I did. That won't be cheap. Axles will run you about $125, another $250 for bearing assy's, I think manual hubs are over $100...plus the little odds and ends you always end of needing on something like this.
Although expensive, this trick just sounds too easy :D It's something I'm interested though, so keep me posted if you find out for sure it will work.
 






i had to trim some additional material off that plastic thing around the gas tank, but it fit like a glove otherwise.
 






As to disconnecting the front axle, I'm convinced you can swap to 98 to 01 Ranger front axles and bearings and use manual hubs. I'm going to look into that further once I recover from the total rebuild of the drivetrain I did. That won't be cheap. Axles will run you about $125, another $250 for bearing assy's, I think manual hubs are over $100...plus the little odds and ends you always end of needing on something like this.

I am pretty sure the Rangers you speak of use a "live" front end like our setup.

Here is what I did:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=188359
 






Hey Evan, in your thread you mention that there may be a clearance problem with the front oil pan with the differential in the stock location, which is why I didn't even consider this swap a few months ago when I first read your post. My Explorer is lowered, so dropping the differential even an inch isn't possible.

Do you know of anyone ever trying this mod on a stock 5.0? I'd really don't wanna buy a front diff I can't use.





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I am pretty sure the Rangers you speak of use a "live" front end like our setup.

Here is what I did:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=188359

You know, after looking at your pictures, I'm not so sure that you couldn't make that pan clear with a little "massage in the correct place. But I would want to remove the pan to do it...and that's a whole other story. But it sure doesn't need much by those pictures, does it. I bolted a '96 aluminum pan on my 99 motor. I haven't installed the engine yet, but it sure looks like it will clear everything without any issues. The heavy aluminum pan is bound to seal better than the sheet metal pan. The only issue I've had is it takes a small diameter pick up...the Sealed Power one they catalog will not work...and the low oil sensor for the '96 is different than the 99. I sure hope that doesn't cause me any issues with the message center. The sealing surface for the '96 sensor is also smaller than the '99 sensor...hence the reason they won't interchange.

I've looked at the Ranger hub swap. From the pictures, it really looks like it should work.
 






I've looked at the Ranger hub swap. From the pictures, it really looks like it should work.

Do you have a link to what you've seen/read?
 






There are a lot of links, threads, and pictures I've looked at. Nothing in particular. Everything I see "appears" to fit. The proof will be actually bolting the stuff on.
 



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