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4R70W Coolant Line

shucker1

Elite Explorer
Joined
May 4, 2008
Messages
2,107
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449
City, State
Metairie, Louisiana
Year, Model & Trim Level
98 XLT 5.0
Ladies and Gentlemen Et Al,

I have screwed up.

Haste makes waste.

Not paying attention to what I was doing while dropping the transmission out of my 98 XLT, I destroyed The cooler line which runs From The Transmission To The Radiator.

I do have the Auxiliary cooler as part of the factory tow package.

I neglected to notice that the transmission had an adapter fitting in the side that needed a back up so therefor I twisted the damm line off.

A) Line looks to be standard 37 Deg JIC Flair?

B) Anyone have a P\n handy?

C) If it is 37 Deg JIC Flair they might both just become (.049 Stainless Tube) It just sucks bending tubing while laying on your back. Adapters are avilable from Swagelock or Parker.

(I bend tubing for a living so I can say it is a GIANT PIMA)
 



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Dorman #624-474 and #624-475 are the hard lines.

Still looking for the Ford part numbers. parts.ford.com has always been my go to site for oem numbers but ever since they redid the site, 'Explorer' does not show up in the drop down menu to search.
 






Thank you.

I do have the external cooler so I run from the transmission to the radiator to the external cooler then back to the transmission.

While both engine and transmission are out I may just as well do them all and not have to worry about them again.

As easy as it twisted off it was destine for failure along the line somewhere.
 






With you being down there in the hot south, you could bypass the radiator and run lines straight to the cooler to simplify things.

I still don't know if they run lines to the radiator to warm up the transmission faster in cold climates or to cool it faster in extreme heat or perhaps both. According to some trans specialist, they prefer to bypass it and just have a 40K trans cooler.

If you wanted a new OEM Ford trans cooler, I have one I will sell you cheap.
 






I have a 99 4r70w at the shop with a cracked case, I'm pretty sure the line adapter fittings are still on it. PM me a mailing address and I'll send them to you as I'm about to scrap the case.

20180129_202606.jpg
 






@boominXplorer ,

Adapter fittings are fine.

I twisted off the metal line which has the flared end that goes into the adapter. Snapped it about 3" past the adapter.

Just wondering if that flair fitting is 37 Deg JIC of something different like Metric.

@Centaurus5.0 found a Dorman P\n for a replacement line and I have to do a little further research to make sure its the right one.

I do have the secondary cooler.

It was late and dark last light when I finally wrapped up so after work today in daylight I'll get a better estimate of a suitable replacement build.

Regards,
Chris
 






Those lines should match what parts stores sell as straight fuel line with the 3/8" flare fitting on them. I've used those to make lines for my old 86 Crown Vic(AOD). I think the fittings are the same for most big Fords of the 80's and 90's. It is common to also need an o-ring in the fitting connection, one that fits well down in the cavity. The o-ring seals better than having to crank down the fitting really tight.

Take your fitting adapter to a parts store, and see how the fuel line fits it.

You can cut and flare those lines also if you had to, but it adds another pair of connections/fittings to it.
 






Dorman #624-474 (#F87Z7A030VA) $26.79 at RockAuto

4

3

3


Dorman #624-475 (#F87Z7C410VA) $27.89 at RockAuto

3

3

3
 






Thanks Don,

Totally forgot about an O-Ring possibly being in there.

It will be daylight when I get home so I can get a better look at things to come up with a retrofit or repair plan.

In a refinery for the next (2) weeks watching equiptment run, so I have lots of time to research stuff.

Regards,
Chris
 












Installing the long left line is the big deal. If you can get the full length part in there, I'd buy that, either the Ford or Dorman piece. There shouldn't be much difference in the Dorman parts, the fittings quality and flare surface is it.

I am also planning to eliminate the radiator cooler from the loop. I'll run the two lines to an altered thermostat oil cooler adapter, and from that to a large front cooler. So I'll need four short lines, hopefully all will match the common lengths available as fuel line.
 






Installing the long left line is the big deal. If you can get the full length part in there, I'd buy that, either the Ford or Dorman piece. There shouldn't be much difference in the Dorman parts, the fittings quality and flare surface is it.

Won't be that hard...

No engine and no transmission now.

Engine is done and waiting. Transmission is going to Bosier City, LA to a shop to get beefed up.

While they are out the entire frame assembly gets all new (Polyurethane) bushings, less body mounts, and a nice coat of POR-15.

Slowly, one piece at a time....

Regards,
Chris
 






Excellent, chassis is bare and ready. This was my 99 in 2005, just pull the body off, and everything is easy.

99chassis.JPG
 






Just wish I had a shop big enough to pull the body off....

Having to do mine the hard way. On my back on section at a time.

I've got some really cool neighbors that put up with my antics but I don't want to push my luck and tick them off.
 






Do what you can. I've got too many at my house now, need to sell four and bring one home.
 






Do what you can. I've got too many at my house now, need to sell four and bring one home.

I know the feeling...

Tonight was coat the driveshaft center section in POR-15 Rust Preventative. End yokes were done last week.

Checked transmission adapters. Everything I researched said they are 1\4" NPT going into the case.

A regular 1\4" SST tube fitting goes in about 6 threads and stops. A little more checking is necessary.

I like your concept about the radiator cooler delete, makes sense. Therefore I'll come out of transmission case with a JIC adapter and go direct to SST braided hose to a Derale transmission thermostat like this:

Fluid Control Thermostats : 3/8" NPT Fluid Control Thermostat Kit

Everything will be SST braided hose with welded ends which I can easily get custom made.
 






That's the same brand I've got to modify. They make versions with different port sizes, and with a mounting bracket. Those all open at 180*, I've got a marine T'stat rated at 140*, which hopefully will go into it. I couldn't remove the end cap from the adapter my first attempt, it's very thin to grab ahold of with a Channel Lock pliers etc. I think I'll go to a machine shop and have a tool made that fits it more snugly than a regular wrench. I've been busy with other things.
 






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