4th Gen Auto 5R55 to Manual M5OD - progress (not a How-to)

[engineeering]

I don't think color coded helped lol but I do know you need only 8 wires 2 for the motor 1 for the clutch and 5 for the sensor now on the 97 you will notice 1-5 and on 06 1-4 with sens return one of the 1-5 from the 97 is the sens return it's either the 1 or 5 looking at both diagrams that will be the guessing game but the rest is straight foward the green sens return you highlighted green and crossed out and un crossed out is for the speed sensor return do not use that.


Tom

Hi Tom. Thanks for the quote above. That was exactly what I was thinking. But after looking closer... I couldnt figure out why the 06 EX had 9 wires (not 8)?. As it turns out... if you look at the diagram again... there is a clutch wire and a clutch position wire (the violet/orange wire). This is the clutch POS RTN wire... that's the one I highlighted green and drew an arrow to (Note that in my excitement when I figured it out... I forgot to update the other page I scanned on the left which should not show the clutch position wire from the 06 ex go to "blk/ground", rather, it should go to Gry/Red on the 01 ex tcase

Violet/Orange (on 06 EX) ====> (goes to) ====> Grey/Red (on 01 EX tcase)

If I'm right (could still be wrong. LOL), I believe the speed sensor return wire is the other grey/red wire. There are actually 2 grey/red signal wires coming from the 01 EX tcase (1 from clutch... the other from the obsolette speed sensor).


on another note.... I did ultimately loose my speedo. Turns out the ABS system does operate my speed... however,... the abs system also reads the output speed sensor from the original auto transmission. For this reason... I can ether use my new tcase output speed sensor (the extra grey/red wire) OR the output speed sensor in my new MO5D-h1 transmisison. Either way... I will just need to adjust my tune depending on how many holes the shaft sensor reads (the stock Auto Trans speed sensor reads 24 on the tune... I've read that the Mo5D has 12... If I don't change it... my truck will read double the speed)

Anyways... I'll wire it up tomorrow or when I get back from Mexico. We'll see if she works

 

[engineeering]

I picked up a higher wattage resistor with less error. Works great for tricking the computer that it is in neutral to operate the tcase.

The pick below shows the resistor... I also grabbed a clutch switch off a Ranger so I can wire it to engage the resistor when my clutch is in.... this way my truck will think it is in neutral whenever I engage my clutch... therefore my 4x4 shift motor buttons will only work if I have my clutch in. I really don't want to bump the 4x4lo button when on the highway... that is very easy to do with my stickshift knob about the same height as the 4x4 buttons!!!

...totally unrelated ... but when I grabbed the clutch switch, I couldn't help but notice that it was off one of the rare Canadian 2011 Rangers. It was the FX4 with a nice limited slip rear solid beam diff and DISK BRAKES! If I still had a ranger... I'd be plucking that sh** for sure.

 

[engineeering]

Found a few pics on my phone backup that I did not loose when my SDchip bit the dust. Bit old now but whatever... here are two picks of my stock transmission mount after I welded a 1.25" riser and drilled out new holes on my cross support. If you do this swap... you'll have to do something like this to bolt everything together.

My welding job. hahaha. Don't judge. Clearly I don't get much practice. However, regardless of having the current's set wrong... I got some good penetration. you have to do this really fast and quench it or else you will melt your the rubber in the mount!

 

[engineeering]

Ok. Doing some more tuning now... got the hang of it pretty good now.

Unfortunately it turns out that my truck goes into some kind of limp mode. I have confirmed now that it is NOT a rev limiter from neutral or reverse. I need to disable the fault checks for my auto transmission.

Just like what @2000StreetRod said, I need to also change the "trans_type". Turns out my truck has no trans_type. I guess this pcm was never used with a manual? It is just not setup to disable it with one main switch... so I'm trying to zero all the test switches. I am totally out of my league right now. I ordered Don Lasota's SCT manual and it has been helpful. Unfortunately not too much in there regarding "deleting" you auto trans however.

Here's a pick of some of my Auto Trans options that I need to delete. If anyone has some tips here that would be amazing

edit: the blue ones with "0" value I changed to 0 to try to delete. Not sure if it will just screw it up though.

 

[engineeering]

My 2000 Sport strategy allows disabling the automatic trans capability.

You may not have the capability in your strategy but it's worth checking.

Which engine do you have?

Thought I'd quote this post to bring it closer to my last question. You can see in StreetRod's pic that there are 3 main switches (mentioned in the notes) that need to be set to 0. Unfortunately I do not have the "trans_type" option. so I might have to manually mess with all the parameters. I have a long list of codes popping up (I'm putting electrical tape on them for now... hahahah) and can post them up if needed.

 

[engineeering]

Here are my current codes:

P061C - powertrain
P0743 - torque converter clutch
P0750 - Shift solenoid A
P0755 - powertrain
P0760 - Shift solenoid B
P0600 - Serial Comm Link
P0740 - Torque Converter Clutch Circuit
P0748 - Powertrain Pressure Cont. A Elect.
P0753 - Shift solenoid A
P0758 - Shift solenoid B
P0763 - Shift solenoid C
P0768 - Shift solenoid D
P0778 - Pressure Control Solenoid B Elect.
P0798 - Pressure Control Solenoid C Elect.
P0960 - Powertrain
P0964 - Powertrain
P0968 - Powertrain
P1260 - Powertrain Theft Detected - Engine Disabled*
C1805 - Chassis (this one sounds unrelated)

*note that my engine is not disabled regardless of the P1260.

Truck actually runs really nice. LOL. Just get an RPM limiter around 3000-3500 depending on the gear. I think it is actually some kind of limp mode cause all my rev limiters have been edited already.

 

[2000StreetRod]

datalog gear pids

Did you use the "Find Item" capability to search for "Trans type"? Mine was under "system switches" instead of "Auto Trans Switches".

The PCM has a neutral/park rev limiter that is usually around 3,000 rpm. I suggest that you datalog pids associated with gear selected to determine if your PCM "thinks" the transmission is in neutral/park. If you can't fool the PCM into "thinking" you're in neutral then you can change the neutral rev limit.

 

[engineeering]

Sure did. My system does not have that option. I also have the same note (in blue text within the Advantage III description referencing "trans_type"... does not exist).

I did some reading on the 06 Auto transmission (a good writeup from Don Lasota @ Lasota Racing)... so I have some idea of what the parameters are now. But it does not explain them all. Might have to be some trial and error here :/

 

[08Exploder]

Ok lol so not like you want another t case and good luck finding a 1997 t case cause it's only 1 year but it had the external speedo sensor which was a motor with a gear on the end of it with changeable colored gears you could use that for a speedo and as far as the error codes if you made a fake 5r55 by taking all the standard resistor values for the solinode block and all the sensors you prob will get rid of majority of the codes and get out of limp mode or another option is to locate a pcm from a ranger and some how wire it in to yours but that would be very time consuming and need a lot of patience. That's my idea and as far as the clutch return that's going to need a resistor my gues but the question is does it have to be a variable resistor when engaged etc! But looks like that races will work but if you got a 1997 one it have the speedo hole on the back for the speedo gear but good luck finding a 1997 one lol

Tom

 

[08Exploder]

Also just for kicks to fully rule out its not the rev limiter! Change the current gear to first gear instead of being in park or neutral! Cause if it changes than you know it's the rev limits of not then something else.

Tom

 

[engineeering]

Also just for kicks to fully rule out its not the rev limiter! Change the current gear to first gear instead of being in park or neutral! Cause if it changes than you know it's the rev limits of not then something else.

Tom

Good point. I thought of doing this then forgot. I will temporarily wire it up that way and see what happens

 

[engineeering]

Ok.. back from Mexico... and a PILE of work to catch up on. So will be doing this over the next week or so.

Random post... I saw lots of these 4 door Rangers and I think I really want one now but the cabs are smaller than I thought (only like 8-10" longer than an extended cab I bet). There's a picture of me having an espresso with another nice little 4.0L Ford product

 

[willied]

Sweet! I always wished we had the 4-door Ranger here...unfortunately Ford didn't want to invest in making it meet safety regulations here.

 

[engineeering]

Sweet! I always wished we had the 4-door Ranger here...unfortunately Ford didn't want to invest in making it meet safety regulations here.

They started selling them in Mexico in 2001 in the 4.0L (if I remember correctly). that means they were built in 2000. As of late 2015... they are 15 years old and you can import them to Canada/USA. After shipping/brokerage/duty... they aren't that cheap though.

 

[willied]

They started selling them in Mexico in 2001 in the 4.0L (if I remember correctly). that means they were built in 2000. As of late 2015... they are 15 years old and you can import them to Canada/USA. After shipping/brokerage/duty... they aren't that cheap though.

Canada is 15 years; the U.S. is 25, unfortunately.

 

[engineeering]

That is very unfortunate. But I guess once it's certified in Canada... might be able to import it from here once its "Canadian". Lol. Probably not though...

 

[engineeering]

Also just for kicks to fully rule out its not the rev limiter! Change the current gear to first gear instead of being in park or neutral! Cause if it changes than you know it's the rev limits of not then something else.

Tom

Tried this... Def not a rev limiter... almost positive now that it is an auto trans torque limiter...

 

[engineeering]

OK. . Got the 01 tcase in. Got it all wired up like my scan diagram... didn't work.

After going backwards for a few days... I remembered I did some tuning changes on the software. Turns out... DO NOT DELETE THE AUTO TRANS ON 3RD GEN! Since this vwhicle was never built/programmed for a manual... if you delete it... the 4x4 shift wiring does not know it is in fake neutral (determined by auto trans switch). So you essentially delete 4x4. I also tried to use the software to "force neutral" but that does nothing for the 4x4 module since it is hard wired to the trans switch and not a pcm thing.

Soooo. .. at this point I think I only have 4x4 if I directly add 12v to the brown wire (can't confirm)... BUT MY 4X4 LOW gearing is working great (wired in a safety normally closed switch so i dont bump 4x4LO button on the highway durine shifts to 5th). Good chance some of this might fix as soon as I connect the speedo (I know... should have done that first. LOL)

( just lots of 2wd wheel slides in the snow at this point. Just one dang wire to figure out...)

I called my buddy's shop and he is lending me a 2006 tcase to reference the wiring so I can determine where that last black wire goes.... ANYONE WANT TO SLIDE UNDER THEIR 3RD GEN AND SEE WHERE THE BLACK TCASE (heavy gauge) WIRE GOES? (That would be very kind.. especially if you have snow like i do right now. Hahahah) Starting to think that black wire maybe a ground wire... but that is based on a whim... no rational behind that (and haven't looked at the diagrams in a while)

Almost there... I got annoyed with it so I installed a new Curt class III hitch and Rola roof basket... at least something went right the first time. HAhhaha.

 

[08Exploder]

Hey,

Glad to here your back on it I gave you a diagram of my 08 explorer wiring in a link

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BxwABT1ITWImWnNiVlBBdEVjc1U

Copy and paste that and look at it! Now I see you said 3rd gen I thought you have a 4th gen 2006-2010 right?

And like I said before instead of trying to beat the software I would make a box to trick the computer with different resistors and relays diodes etc so it thinks it has a working transmission etc!

But anyway good luck you took on a big challenge!

Tom

 

[engineeering]

Thanks Tom. Yup.. a 2006 I've got.

I figure I will simply turn off all the codes triggered codes relating to the auto. That's a lot easier. ... also making progress on the speedo.