4x4 shift motor 93 explorer

[msphynx]

I've looked through the forum and have found countless entries on the shift motor, I've checked most of it out and I've done some troubleshooting. Can someone review this and tell me what you think is wrong?

93 ford Explorer (Automatic) with 4wd Eddie Bauer Edition.


Issue:
4wd and low gear lights don't work when the button is pressed. Nothing happens no click or anything that I can hear.

Steps to resolve:
I removed the 2 connectors at the rear and pressed the button. I got several flashes then it went off. My understanding is this tells me the module is good.
Next I removed the Shift motor and manually changed the transfer box itself between 2wd, 4h and 4l. They all went in correctly with a springlick click.

Next I took the motor apart. It looked good but I did go ahead and sand down the armatur connection, the brushes and reseated them. I then had the wife start the car, place it in neutral and try the buttons while I held the motor and checked it out. When she pressed the 4wd button the motor never fully left the 2wd position. It just jerked back and forth slightly a few times as if it was hitting it's limits or something. At this point I took the motor apart again and manually manipulated it to it's farthest setting the 4high. Put it back together and held it while she repeated the test.
When she started the car she told me the 4high light was now on. (yippie! I figured the wiring was good at this point!)
I then had her hit the 4 low and the motor properly moved to the correct position. I had her go back to 4 high and again it went properly. Then I had her return it to 2wd and it went there perfectly. At this point I was excited that it was probably fixed and not a wiring issue. So...I on a hunch had her to try the 4wd high again and again it exhibited the jerky motion and didnt leave the 2wd position. She then tried 4 low and again same jerky results still in 2wd positon.
So at this point I'm thinking...everything is perfect in the system (wires, etc) except...the shift motor gearbox thing behind the darn security screws. I've yet to take it apart as I don't have the #20 torx for security to remove it.
Any idea where I can get this? And...am I on the correct track? It's probably something in there like the stop limit piece might be broken or something? Or could this still be a wiring issue?

To fully remove the motor so I can work on it what do I need to do. I can fully remove the motor from the case and then the connector with like 10 wires in it I got it apart. My issue Is the 2 wires running into this rubber piece that plugs into the case itself and then the single wire about an inch to the top right of it. Do I just PULL real hard to get these out or what? I don't want to break them getting them out.

Thanks for your help.

 

[410Fortune]

you cleaned the motor portion of the shift motor, brushes, put it back together.
You never cleaned up inside the armature portion of the shift motor? where the wires enter? This is the problem area, the stop inside wears out and when its gone the motor will go past its limits.
You need to clean it up in there, re-lube, and use a new piece of plastic as a stop.

Since you have already searched I will help, although there is a usefull rebuild post over at therangerstation.com

You can get the security bit at most parts stores, or you can knock the center pin out of the screws (if yours has them) with a small screwdriver.

For the two wires (one brown and one green I think?) you can actually pull the big wiring plug apart, and then remove the wiring pins, without ever cutting the wire. The big brown/black/grey plug (square plug color varies over years) has a red keeper in it, pull the keeper out and then you can unlock each wire. Make note of the position for the two wires you remove.

Now you can put the motor assembly on a bench and work on it.
MARK the location of the top of the case in relation to the body of the motor before you take it apart! If you look closely you can see hash marks on the edge, make note of the position, this is how you fine tune the adjustment of the shift motor travel, from 2wd to 4hi to 4lo

Once you get inside the armature you will see what I am talking about:
Your stop has likey disintigrated and you might find pieces of it inside.
Clean the disc up, clean up the gear and case, recoat the disc with dielectric grease.
Put bearing grease on the gear and put it back together. I use an emery board and clean up the contacts on the "fingers", I also like to bend them slightly to ensure they are still making full contact.

You can see the disc has a stop built into it (white plastic pin sticking up) well from the factory there used to be a little bushing around that sucker, this is the part that deteriorates.
You can cut a small section of hose and put it over the stop. Has worked on every motor I have rebuilt. The last 6 or 7 I have used clear plastic tubing, like you see for aquaruim pumps (about 1/4" inner diameter).

Once you have it back together and back on the truck, take a minute to ensure it shifts 5 or 6 times. Sometimes the case (where the hash marks are, 3 security bits hold it down) needs slight adjusting.


Congrats you just saved yourself $300 for a shift motor

 

[msphynx]

you cleaned the motor portion of the shift motor, brushes, put it back together.

Congrats you just saved yourself $300 for a shift motor

Wow...Thanks for such a quick response! I'll be removing it again this weekend and see what I can find. Hopefully this is the issue. Is there anything behind the triangle piece on the transfer case that needs looking at?
Mine turned and clicked with a spring like action without issue. Figured there might be something behind it to look at also, though not sure.

 

[TheFox88]

How is this 911? If its in the thread, sorry but i didn't really read through.

 

[DeRocha]

Take a peek at the Shift Motor rebuild thread for lots of detailed info and pics. It will show the inner workings of how the geared shift selector works.. The security bits can be found at sears as well.