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5.0 2to4wd 4406 and tons

You are using a manual shift transfer case, you will simply run two wires from the t case to your instrument cluster for the 4hi and 4 low lights
That’s still in the maybe category, very low on the priority list. Currently working on modifying the D50 to accept standard U bolts and getting that all located under the front end as well as finding a home for the 79 4wd F series steering box, and of course plumbing and turning that.
Steering linkage
Shocks
Driveshaft
Brakes
Hydro assist?
Proportioning valve and rip out the ABS
Winch and wiring
Front bumper
It’s a long list yet. lol
 



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Having a list means having a plan.
 






Rear end is almost finished, started mocking up the front. IFS getting torn out today so I can start building structure to mount the springs to.
All the major parts are on the way including 40s.

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Got all the IFS stuff torn out today, and kinds slid the 50 in below where it will live just to kinda see where mounts might end up.
Looks like the rear mounts will be easy, just behind the body mount on ruff stuff outriggers. Not sure about the front because I can’t move the axle up to ride height untill I cut out the crossmember.
Plan for that will be to weld in some 3/8x2-1/2 flat bar in the top of the crossmember hollow, and one on the top of the frame in front of the rad, then cut the crossmember. The plan is to mount a winch plate as low as possible and build off that for a the shackles and it will also act as bracing up there. Once I have that in place I’m going to make a removable engine crossmember so I can drop the pan if I want.

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Got my hands on a stick welder so I could weld the tubes to the center section with Ni99 rod, and got that done. Started putting the front axle together, and I currently have the 5.38s and Yukon LS in the housing and almost set property. I figured I could do this job with bearing splitters and a press but I was wrong and I found out the hard way. Correct tools on the way to get that finished up. Also waiting on a free spin hub kit, it replaces the unit bearings with a normal spindle and serviceable bearings as well as 35 spline outers. I figure that’s going to make changing broken inner axle shafts (the “fuse” in this system) a bit easier. I went LS up front to avoid breaking shafts, but if I do, it’s easyish.
While I waiting on that, going to fix some small stuff:
I was told these sensors hidden behind the grill are some kind of crash sensor that can’t be unplugged? Looking for a second opinion on that, definitely unplugged them and I don’t want to put them back, the airbags are already gone.
Also the strut ball for the rear glass rotted off years ago, I looked but couldn’t find anything on replacing those, only the hatch ones. Are the 10mm? I could probably find some in the yard and weld them in, was thinking of just getting a kit of new stuff and making it fit, but I would like it to be the same size.

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Yes airbag sensors unplug and remove no biggie

Ditching the unit bearings a very good idea! I love replacing wheel bearings on my 97 f350 w a true Dana 60
But hate it when it’s time to replace the unit bearings on our 01 excursion with the d50, $300 each!
 






Yes airbag sensors unplug and remove no biggie

Ditching the unit bearings a very good idea! I love replacing wheel bearings on my 97 f350 w a true Dana 60
But hate it when it’s time to replace the unit bearings on our 01 excursion with the d50, $300 each!
Company called Spyntec makes them, I ordered mine with Warren hubs, around $1900 shipped. It’s pretty spendy but in theory I shouldn’t ever need to replace any of it assuming proper maintenance. Also no vacuum seal, so pulling the axle shaft is much easier, could potentially carry a spare for a trail repair. Also I feel like a pair of bearings spread apart should be stronger than a unit bearing. I’ve never had one apart but I assume it’s some tiny little bearings packed tight together.
 






The problem wit the superduty wheel bearings is quality… after the ford ones go out it is hard to find good replacements, the motorcraft “service grade” is the best option and they are $$$$$ and still not oem quality. It is easy to spend $600-800 on a set of front wheel bearings that will last 2-3 years… so the $1900 isn’t that far off considering.

I still drive a 1988 ($35 wheel bearings) and a 97 ($50 wheel bearings) lol lol

I cringe when our excursion needs front bearings or my wife’s FJ cruiser big $$$$
 












I like that, looks like it could go anywhere but into the garage.
 






Getting the grill installed, trying to plan modifications to that so everything fits.
What’s this capped off plug for? I know there are the crash sensors that are now gone, fog light plugs, but this one I have no idea.
thinking maybe I could use it for lighting power if it’s just 12V, bonus points if that’s what it’s for.

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That looks like the exterior temp sensor for the overhead display.
 






Agreed the fog light feeds are on both sides right next to the abs sensor feeds on the frame rails

This one I believe is the wiring for the external temp sensor… but no sensor. Usually located behind the grill.

This truck does not have the overhead display?
 






This one I believe is the wiring for the external temp sensor… but no sensor. Usually located behind the grill.
The "cap" is the sensor. At least that's what it looked like on my '97. I believe it's just a resistor and the overhead display calculates a temp based on the voltage drop as the resistance changes with temperature. Should only be two wires that are blue/yellow and blue/white.

I know later years they switched to a generic temp sensor with threads on it, but I believe earlier years look like what's pictured above.
 






I was gonna say im used to the temp sensors have a Cone shaped head and threads!

If it was behind the grill near the air bag sensor and there is only one then it is indeed the ambient air temp sensor

The only other thing up there is the horn ;)

Two heads are always better than one
 






Oh temp sensor! Ok I’ll leave that alone. I was kinda hoping it might be for some kind of aux lighting, but I’ll use the factory fog light wiring for that.
Ok next question:
This evap thing, or whatever it is, has a hard line that needs to move a little. If I could relocate the whole thing with some rubber hose and hose clamps that would probably be best. I guess easiest solution would be to just bend this hard line, but if I could delete it, or relocate that might be what I have to do. Though space is running a little short. So what is it? Can I delete it? Is it low pressure so I can move it?
Looks like the steering box is going to fit ok. Looks like I can probably just connect it with one of those double joint steer shafts on summit. I guess I need to count the splines on this input so I order the correct thing.

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I believe that's the Evap purge valve. If you're not planning on getting a tune or living with a constant CEL, I'd try to relocate it. Maybe I'm misremembering, but I thought all the lines to it were relatively flexible.
 






Also here is a less crappy photo of the front. Thinking about making a tube bumper that will bolt on to what I have now. Thinking around 2-1/2” upper tube that’s almost flat and follows the bottom of the grill, and a lower tube that will run up at an angle and vector somewhere around the turn signal. It will include shackle points and some kind of protection for the 3-4” of radiator sticking down, and maybe find a way to tie that into a large center hoop, also 2-1/2. I’ll land some of those harbor freight rock lights in there, they may even be able to run off the stock wiring. I have some aftermarket one pice headlights and a “new” grill. I’ll need to come up with something different than the chicken wire grill because I need to be able to reach in to the top of the winch controller. Might even leave it stock… doubt lol
I need to be able to at least steer this thing so I can flex it out as see what needs to be trimmed first, just throwing out my plans.

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I believe that's the Evap purge valve. If you're not planning on getting a tune or living with a constant CEL, I'd try to relocate it. Maybe I'm misremembering, but I thought all the lines to it were relatively flexible.
Yeah the hard line already got bent, I was mostly wondering about pressure. Can I cut that and shorten it with just rubber hose and a clamp?
 






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