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5.0 2to4wd 4406 and tons

Yeah the hard line already got bent, I was mostly wondering about pressure. Can I cut that and shorten it with just rubber hose and a clamp?
The lines shouldn't ever be pressurized, they'll just see intake vacuum when the valve opens, so I think rubber fuel line would be fine.
 



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So both fog lamps are ran off the same circuit as the right headlight?
I’m going to be running LED everything, and the lights I want to run on this circuit are 50W each, so maybe 8-9A together. I was hoping to not have to make a separate relay circuit for them but I guess I have to unless the headlight only draws like 1A. Anyway is that correct?

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It is fuel vapor management, low pressure

Yes you can relocate it
Yes you can use fuel safe hose and clamps

The factory nylon hoses are rigid because they don’t want engine vacuum to collapse them if there was ever a problem with the venting on the fuel tank side of things


The fog
Lights have their own relay, two relays actually and their own switch
They do share a fuse for power w the headlights

The wiring for the relays and switches already in the truck

Usually you just have to add the switch and relay and the wires come alive. The fog light relay and the isolation relay are in a small aux relay box under the dash near the throttle pedal… kinda hard to see but it’s in there

I use the factory wiring and switch to run led fogs all the time
 






The fog
Lights have their own relay, two relays actually and their own switch
They do share a fuse for power w the headlights

The wiring for the relays and switches already in the truck

Usually you just have to add the switch and relay and the wires come alive. The fog light relay and the isolation relay are in a small aux relay box under the dash near the throttle pedal… kinda hard to see but it’s in there
I added fogs to my '00 by gutting the aux relay box and all related fog light wiring (including fuse) from another '00 in the salvage yard. That allowed me to build a standalone fog light harness that I routed in the engine bay and spliced into the factory bulkhead connector (to utilize the existing fog light switch wiring in the dash). Once I added a ground I was in business.

Like any wiring, it's tedious work and you have to disconnect radiator and condenser to tilt them back if you want to route your wiring along the factory harness (through the rad core support). Of course you may have better access from the front since your grille is off. The end result is a setup that works and looks like factory though, so IMO it's worth it.
 






Oh ok cool, thanks guys! That sounds much cleaner than what I was thinking. The wiring diagram probably isn’t in the Chilton, but I’m sure I can dig it up or just stare at the wiring until the rest of my hair falls out so I can find a clean simple solution like that.
The lights I was looking at appear to actually be 40W for the pair, but I found some others that are high/low 90/50W each. Not sure what I’m going with yet, I would have to add another circuit for the high/low ones.
Also thinking about a small double radiator kinda thing for the power steering and trans cooler. Make it all one thing in front of the condenser above the winch. Why are there two coolers for the transmission?
 






The transmission has a tiny “fluid to fluid”
Cooler inside the radiator. Fluid to
Fluid are way more efficient then air to fluid coolers, however over the years on this forum we have decided they are actually there to pre heat the atf in cold climates as it is so small (2”x4”) that it does not cool much at all.

So
Many of us (okay me) will delete the radiator
Mounted cooler and just run two air/fluid coolers up front. I run dual factory style coolers and have zero issues with trans temps

I have had two radiators fail over the years, mixing atf with antifreeze, one of them killed my newly installed auto trans… not ok.
After that I pretty much delete the factory radiator Cooler

Like this

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@410Fortune that’s huge info thanks! I’m in FL so 11 months out of the year we are already preheated. I think I’ll try to find one big one and run it above the winch. I’m thinking I should also use a larger cooler for the power steering simply because it’s moving larger stuff. Maybe one of those finned tube style ones under the winch plate.
 






Working on the final location for this steering box, I think I’ve found its home. You can probably see I’m not using a through bolt method, it’s a 1/2” plate that’s been threaded and will be welded to the frame with some gussets.
Doing everything I can to save this AC compressor. It is directly in the way. I removed one of the bolts and am considering grinding that tab back to use a shorter bolt. Or just run 3 bolts. It’s got clearance as it is, I’m just worried about contact as the engine flexes around on the mounts. Anyone see a problem with three bolts? Might upgrade them to grade 8.
With how low I have to mount the box there is only about 3-4” of clearance between the pitman arm and the spring. They do kinda move together, but that may limit my uptravel a bit.
Questions:
3 bolts on the compressor?
Compressor relocation kit?
Can I just screw a filter directly to the block now that there is room for that?

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I like the idea of grinding back the bolt tab on the compressor housing and running a shorter bolt. I feel like three bolts might get you by, but I'm not sure if any additional flex would lead to bad things for the compressor clutch. Stronger bolts/higher torque won't likely help as the threads on the die cast aluminum bracket will fail before the steel bolt.
 






I like the idea of grinding back the bolt tab on the compressor housing and running a shorter bolt. I feel like three bolts might get you by, but I'm not sure if any additional flex would lead to bad things for the compressor clutch. Stronger bolts/higher torque won't likely help as the threads on the die cast aluminum bracket will fail before the steel bolt.
That’s a good point, I didn’t consider that. Though the bolts are about a mile long. This would actually be a good application for studs, but that kind of defeats what I’m trying to do lol
 






This would actually be a good application for studs, but that kind of defeats what I’m trying to do lol
If the stud is an appropriate length, it won't stick out much further than the head of a bolt would. Studs (or hardened all thread) get expensive though...

If you're looking to save the most space, you could also use a socket cap screw after you grind the tab back. It's a lot easier to sneak a ball-end allen socket into tight spots than a traditional six-point socket. That's how I installed my headers:
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For oddball hardware that I can't get at a local farm supply, I usually check with my local Fastenal branch (almost always cheaper than McMaster-Carr).
 






@97Sandbox im not going to use studs, just commenting how this would be the proper application because of the length.
I’m going to see what kind of bolts I can get at ace, there is also a fasten all down the road. Probably just use hex head since there is a ton of room when the box is out of the way. When it’s in there will be no room. So compressor replacement will require moving the box.
 






It’s gonna work! Little “ precision machining “ and I was able to just switch the bolts. When I went to check the depth with the 10mm head bolt it just went through after some bottom out resistance. Not sure if it broke through the cast or years of dirt but who cares because it’s in and there is plenty of room. Might even do the other side but for right now I’m going to burn this in.

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That works!

Yes you can get the right adapter and thread the filter right to the block just like a classic old 289
Or 302

However I like to re locate the oil filter and add a manifold.. you can mount a larger filter like the fl1a and put it in the air path of the fan for cooling. Plus the extending lines and manifold will hold another 1/2 quart of oil
The manifold also gives you a place to tap into for oil pressure gauge or an oil cooler

Having the filter drain all over the front axle sucks , sure you can use a funnel, but again putting the filter somewhere more accessible is always nice
 






@410Fortune that’s a really good point I hadn’t thought about yet. I’ll have to eyeball where it’s draining now and maybe just leave the filter, but now you’ve given me an idea.

Box is burnt in, still need to gusset. Steering shaft is in, but I need to build a hime support.

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Looks like that leftover UCA mount could be reworked into a base for a heim. Keep up the good work!
 












Got the steering built, everything works, almost everything clears with straight links. I am getting interference between the drag link and driver spring close to full bump. Looks like the only solution is going to be to cut and re-weld the pitman arm at an angle. I did find one off a dodge that bends up, but the shaft size is different.
Anyone know of a ford pitman arm that bends up and has the 4 double splines straight? Or maybe a universal that will fit the 79 case?

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Steering shaft stabilizer and a better pic of the links. The steering is tight, almost no slop, though there is some flex.

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Sorry, I'm no help when it comes to SAS donor compatibility. Just want to add that this rig is shaping up fast! Awesome work.
 






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