5.0 Camshaft Synchronizers | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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5.0 Camshaft Synchronizers

Speaking of synchronizers, I put one in my explorer around two years ago. Now again I hear a weird squeak noise from the motor, and have a recurring 0340 code again. Replaced the sensor with no effect, looked ok in there. Have had little issues with the truck not running right too. I think last time I used ebay parts. Rockauto wants 159 for a MC brand one. Would it be reasonable to get a used motorcraft one, online or from a local junkyard? I know in the past I've had good luck with JY parts, used alternators, and even AC compressors.
 



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If you can make the noise go away with adding a little oil to the synchronizer, then you'd know that's it and decide on a new one versus used. They used to be about $100-$110 two years back, but everything is going up it seems.

That P0340 code won't be from the synchronizer unless it's failed completely(the flag on top destroyed or the roll pin sheared), so what brand was that in there now? That's one part no other brand has proven reliable but Motorcraft. The roll pins seem to be low quality or too small.

There are aftermarket roll pins you can buy and the aftermarket units can be a feasible choice. But they must be the right size and strength, and installed properly. I saw this past Summer on the Corral a thread about the roll pins and normal distributors, I think it was a thread about high volume oil pumps(much harder on the roll pin). The pins were discussed, and a source or two for quality pins, with part numbers and dimensions.
 






If your roll pin sheared your oil pump wouldn’t be driven.
 






If your roll pin sheared your oil pump wouldn’t be driven.
Very true, I added that to the flag being torn off as another possibility, and then the source for them came to mind.
 






Was just reading this thread because I've had the squeak on my Mountaineer's 5.0L engine as well as my retrofitted supercharged 5.0L Mustang (although it runs the older Hall effect style cam sync) and now I'm about to inject my '66 Mustang with a 289 in it. The Mountaineer's squeak has gone away with annual ATF lube with the sensor removed. The 5.0L Mustang had to receive an Autozone Duralast Gold unit which seems to be performing well at the moment. Concerned about the RPM the 289 will run at, I have been thinking about how to better lubricate the bushing. My 289 is the original engine to the car, so it has the stock oil splash deflector on the crank and it also has a fuel pump eccentric mounted although I will be using an electric pump. I am thinking that one or both of those items may aid in slinging oil onto the cam sync gear, anyway.
 






I've been looking for a bulk pack of top bushings or a bushing the same size from another vehicle. different application. The bushing is the same for 289 and other 302 distributors. I read something somewhere that the bottom bushing doesn't do much after the Cam ps or distributor is plugged in to the engine block. I suppose that the aftermarket cam position sensors. the lower bushing could be putting an odd load against the bottom of the assembly causing the cam gear roll pin to shear. I have an aftermarket 3 wire cam ps that could be dissembled far enough to extract the lower bushing and replace the roll pin with an American made pin then see if it will run many miles after working on it a bit. I don't have a test engine with the 3 wire type. I recently purchased 3, 2 wire camshaft position sensors for my 3 5.0 project engines. 2 of them need bushings.
 






I’m not sure if Autozone has stepped up their game or what, but the Duralast Gold cam sync I’m running in my supercharged Fox is doing great. I figured that I’d be using the lifetime warranty more frequently than I am. The roll pin that retains the gear on the Duralast unit is a proper one made of a thick material and the upper bushing might be an oil impregnated one.
 






Yes, the aftermarket brands we need to find a good one from them. The OEM are basically gone and the EFI companies make their units that are $400ish. We don't want to rely on those if we can find a good quality unit like the Ford units always were.

It's be nice if we discovered how to take them apart and replace the bushings in them. If you figure out how they come apart, let's work on that. I have a local alternator shop that could handle that kind of task, if they had the components etc.
 






@CDW6212R Take the two roll pins out and the cam gear off and the rest of it comes apart pretty easy.
 






Yeah, you could re-pin and replace the bushings pretty easily.
 






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