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5.0 engine problems

Mikey195612

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W
Just because it surely can not hurt with all of your random codes, Get a few cans of electrical cleaner and clean your ecm plug and all your grounds on it. All of them. Be shocked how much it can help.
I'll do that tomorrow can't hurt
 


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410Fortune

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FROM GOOGLE

"When the P0320 diagnostic trouble code is stored by the Engine Control Module (ECM), it is an indication that there is a malfunction in the ignition/distributor engine speed input circuit."

"P0340 is a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) for "Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction". This can happen for multiple reasons and a mechanic needs to diagnose the specific cause for this code to be triggered in your situation."

You really really need to revisit your camshaft position sensor and synchronizer body
Cylinder number one must be at top dead center on COMPRESSION STROKE when the synchronizer is installed with the sensor in the correct position using the alignment tool

When I google "P0340 5.0 explorer"



In the very first post of this thread you said you changed the camshaft position sensor..... I suggest that if you just changed the sensor you need to revisit this, the body of the synchronizer could be the issue, when the bearing wears out the cam sensor will wobble and destroy the sensor on top, a new sensor will only just get destroyed again. Those two codes point directly at an issue with the cam sensor/ synchronizer assembly and/or alternator noise issues (not very common) With your miles I would bet on the cam synchronizer itself is bad, needing the entire assembly replaced.
 




Mikey195612

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FROM GOOGLE

"When the P0320 diagnostic trouble code is stored by the Engine Control Module (ECM), it is an indication that there is a malfunction in the ignition/distributor engine speed input circuit."

"P0340 is a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) for "Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction". This can happen for multiple reasons and a mechanic needs to diagnose the specific cause for this code to be triggered in your situation."

You really really need to revisit your camshaft position sensor and synchronizer body
Cylinder number one must be at top dead center on COMPRESSION STROKE when the synchronizer is installed with the sensor in the correct position using the alignment tool

When I google "P0340 5.0 explorer"



In the very first post of this thread you said you changed the camshaft position sensor..... I suggest that if you just changed the sensor you need to revisit this, the body of the synchronizer could be the issue, when the bearing wears out the cam sensor will wobble and destroy the sensor on top, a new sensor will only just get destroyed again. Those two codes point directly at an issue with the cam sensor/ synchronizer assembly and/or alternator noise issues (not very common) With your miles I would bet on the cam synchronizer itself is bad, needing the entire assembly replaced.
I have replaced the hole thing I also replaced the blue and orange wire to pin 85 what next?
 




CDW6212R

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I have replaced the hole thing I also replaced the blue and orange wire to pin 85 what next?

What he's saying is those two error codes point to the cam synchronizer and its circuit.

It may be as simple as R&Ring the synchronizer and resetting the sensor into it with the proper tool. Or the wiring to it may need to be checked for continuity back to the PCM terminals, the connector of it. To do that, you need to turn the crank to TDC , and remove the synchronizer again. Put it back in again so it points forward with the sensor tool on it, and see how it runs then.

You could check the two wires first back to the PCM, but we're betting it's the synchronizer for the reasons posted before.
 




MakinJeepsWeep!

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Isnt there also a window cut out for the sensor to read that helps you line it up right? Sensor to the front and window to the back when motor at tdc?
This might be what you where talking about already @CDW6212R
 




CDW6212R

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Isnt there also a window cut out for the sensor to read that helps you line it up right? Sensor to the front and window to the back when motor at tdc?
This might be what you where talking about already @CDW6212R

The synchronizer is a basically a very simple distributor, no sensitive electronics in it, but it installs exactly like a distributor. Anyone who has worked on engines much at all, knows well that it's easy to get the thing installed one tooth off, or 180* off. People familiar with the Explorer 302 know that the synchronizer is likely to need replacement when it gets high mileage, the bushings wear out and often squeal before they take out the sensor. We also know the OEM Ford is the only one you should trust, other brands are known to have weak drift pins holding the gear on the shaft.

Bottom line, if it's replaced with a Ford unit, and the proper tool is used to set it, they are very reliable for a long long time. The wiring is old and brittle now, all of them. So more faults will happen due to electrical wire breaks or bad connections. We are guessing here, the cam synch is just a good bet based on the error codes pointing to that circuit.

The tool to install the sensor correctly when at TDC, is very simple and only goes on one way, and at the proper orientation. People have claimed to R&R those and not use a tool, and have the engine run okay or well. To me that's like installing a distributor and not bothering to set the initial timing, doing it by ear etc.
 




MakinJeepsWeep!

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The synchronizer is a basically a very simple distributor, no sensitive electronics in it, but it installs exactly like a distributor. Anyone who has worked on engines much at all, knows well that it's easy to get the thing installed one tooth off, or 180* off. People familiar with the Explorer 302 know that the synchronize is likely to need replacement when it gets high mileage, the bushings wear out and often squeal before they take out the sensor. We also know the OEM Ford is the only one you should trust, other brands are known to have weak drift pins holding the gear on the shaft.

Bottom line, if it's replaced with a Ford unit, and the proper tool is used to set it, they are very reliable for a long long time. The wiring is old and brittle now, all of them. So more faults will happen due to electrical wire breaks or bad connections. We are guessing here, the cam synch is just a good bet based on the error codes pointing to that circuit.

The tool to install the sensor correctly when at TDC, is very simple and only goes on one way, and at the proper orientation. People have claimed to R&R those and not use a tool, and have the engine run okay or well. To me that's like installing a distributor and not bothering to set the initial timing, doing it by ear etc.
I only mention because when mine started squealing one day i took and poured a cap of oil in top to lube the bushing and been fine ever since. Note i did not move or replace anything i just got down deep enough to pour oil in the top and as a safety did put it at tdc before removing anything. I also have a new one in the shop waiting for someone to change it but im rebuilding the trans now soooo. Going off what i saw it seemed pretty straight forward just as you said its the same as replacing a distributor pretty much.
 




410Fortune

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Isnt there also a window cut out for the sensor to read that helps you line it up right?
the 94-95 4.0 cam synchros had a glass sight window....never the 5.0
The 5.0 is easy to access, just remove the coil pack tower and boom there is the cam synchro
The 94-2000 4.0 ohv, not so much
 




MakinJeepsWeep!

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the 94-95 4.0 cam synchros had a glass sight window....never the 5.0
The 5.0 is easy to access, just remove the coil pack tower and boom there is the cam synchro
The 94-2000 4.0 ohv, not so much
Yea I ment just the notch that the sensor reads the rotation threw
 




410Fortune

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Oh I get it trying to align the sensor to the synchronizer without the tool
It can be done, especially if the old synchro is still in place

When you drop the synchronizer into its hole it rotates clockwise as it drops as the cam gear meshes... you can only drop it down in like 15 degree increments (each tooth on cam) so it is not terribly difficult to get it on the correct tooth without the alignment tool
The 96-97.5 is different then the 98-2001, 3 wire vs 2 wire, the sensor changed the size of the flag changed so it is best to use the tool
Most new cam synchros come with the alignment tool
 




MakinJeepsWeep!

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Yes all that exactly! I just didn't have enough knowledge on it to explain it that way! Two thumbs up!
 




jim-bobs-rant

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I have a 2000 explorer 5.0 with 286,000 on it and having serious issues excelerating it seem to be losing power , backfiring until I let off the throttle, I have changed the cam position sensor, throttle sensor, crank sensor don't no what else to try any help would be greatly appreciated
Try a new Knock Sensor, they go bad especially in a corrosive environment, good luck to ya.
 




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2000 5.0 v8 explorer does not have a knock sensor only the v6 does
 








410Fortune

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I believe that wire goes directly to the pcm as the signal wire for the cam sensor.
I can get my wiring book out and have a look
 




Mikey195612

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I believe that wire goes directly to the pcm as the signal wire for the cam sensor.
I can get my wiring book out and have a look
I believe you are mistaken cause about 7 in. before the pcm 3 gray with red stripe wires come together.
 




410Fortune

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grey with red is called sensor signal return, circuit 359, GY/R

SSR is a wire that goes to several sensors and back to the PCM

Should be pin 91 at the pcm
 




Mikey195612

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grey with red is called sensor signal return, circuit 359, GY/R

SSR is a wire that goes to several sensors and back to the PCM

Should be pin 91 at the pcm
So any one of those sensors could show a cam position problem?
 




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No, that is not how SSR works.

Grey/Red or GY/R circuit 359 has been around since day one, it is used on all of our EFI Fords from 1986-2004

Each sensor on the SSR works within a range, so lets say the cam sensor sends a signal to the pcm between .1 and .5 volts the next sensor upstream works from .6-1 and the next from 1.0-1.5 so the computer is able to determine which sensor is sending the voltages. One wire can feed several sensors.
Now the neat thing about SSR is it is also a ground (act as the ground feed on our two wire cam sensors and others)
This is why Ford did away with the 3rd wire on many sensors in 1998 when they went from an analog signal to digital, the ground wire was no longer needed since they are fed a ground by the SSR

fordcamshaftpositionsensor-jpg.jpg


As you can see the dark blue with Orange wire is the one you want to test
DB/OR, circuit 282, pin 45 at the PCM is the actual signal wire from the CPS for the PCM
This is where it the PCM would see a cam sensor problem on the + side of things

If it was my truck I would do a simple wiring check, check for continuity between the DB/OG wire at the pcm connector pin 45 directly to the cam sensor. Then check continuity between the GY/RD wire to pin 39 at the pcm (I think it says 39 hard to see on this pic) to the sensor
Then check continuity from the GY/RD to ground
Also check continuity from the DB/OG wire to ground to make sure you do not have a short (it should not have continuity to ground)

This way you can determine there are no breaks in the wires, the signal is getting through and there is no short to ground on the DB/OG wire side.
Usually the wiring is fine, since it is not a long path from the engine to the pcm and the problem lies elsewhere (like a bad sensor or worn out inside the cam synchronizer itself, or it was installed on the wrong cam tooth or 180 degrees out!!)
The engine must be at cyl #1 TDC on compression stroke, then the cam sensor is aligned to the synchronizer body and the whole unit installed on the correct tooth of the camshaft....otherwise the PCM will not be able to time the fuel injection
 


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Mikey195612

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No, that is not how SSR works.

Grey/Red or GY/R circuit 359 has been around since day one, it is used on all of our EFI Fords from 1986-2004

Each sensor on the SSR works within a range, so lets say the cam sensor sends a signal to the pcm between .1 and .5 volts the next sensor upstream works from .6-1 and the next from 1.0-1.5 so the computer is able to determine which sensor is sending the voltages. One wire can feed several sensors.
Now the neat thing about SSR is it is also a ground (act as the ground feed on our two wire cam sensors and others)
This is why Ford did away with the 3rd wire on many sensors in 1998 when they went from an analog signal to digital, the ground wire was no longer needed since they are fed a ground by the SSR

View attachment 422557

As you can see the dark blue with Orange wire is the one you want to test
DB/OR, circuit 282, pin 45 at the PCM is the actual signal wire from the CPS for the PCM
This is where it the PCM would see a cam sensor problem on the + side of things

If it was my truck I would do a simple wiring check, check for continuity between the DB/OG wire at the pcm connector pin 45 directly to the cam sensor. Then check continuity between the GY/RD wire to pin 39 at the pcm (I think it says 39 hard to see on this pic) to the sensor
Then check continuity from the GY/RD to ground
Also check continuity from the DB/OG wire to ground to make sure you do not have a short (it should not have continuity to ground)

This way you can determine there are no breaks in the wires, the signal is getting through and there is no short to ground on the DB/OG wire side.
Usually the wiring is fine, since it is not a long path from the engine to the pcm and the problem lies elsewhere (like a bad sensor or worn out inside the cam synchronizer itself, or it was installed on the wrong cam tooth or 180 degrees out!!)
The engine must be at cyl #1 TDC on compression stroke, then the cam sensor is aligned to the synchronizer body and the whole unit installed on the correct tooth of the camshaft....otherwise the PCM will not be able to time the fuel injection
Ok Thanks
 




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