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5.0 Fuel pressure test gauge?




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In a return style system there would be three total lines, two fuel and one vapor.
Very helpful info.

96-98 return fuel, two fuel lines to the engine, 34 psi. the FPR (fuel press reg) is on the fuel rail
99-01 returnless. single line to the engine, 65 psi, FPR is in the tank
Mine is clearly not making enough pressure.

USE BOSCH blue or MOTORCRAFT pumps, watch out for fakes on Ebay or Amazon........
RockAuto has a complete Motorcraft assembly. It is a little pricey, but if I'm going in, might as well replace everything.
 






Very helpful info.


Mine is clearly not making enough pressure.


RockAuto has a complete Motorcraft assembly. It is a little pricey, but if I'm going in, might as well replace everything.

If all you need is a new fuel pump, get a Bosch or Carter fuel pump, which can be currently had for around $70-$80 on eBay. There's no reason to replace the entire FP assembly if there's nothing wrong with your fuel level sender (or your in-tank fuel pressure regulator in the case of the return-less system). In my experience the in-tank FPR seldom goes bad unless the housing cracks. It's a simple mechanical device with little to go wrong with it. Be sure to replace your in-tank submersible fuel line(s) and strainer and get a FP kit which includes the jumper wire to go from thin FP terminals to wide, which is usually required.

On my 2000's and 2001's I've installed 6 Bosch #69128 fuel pump kits with great success. IDK if this will fit the return-less style system on a '99 though (and we still don't know with 100% certainty which system your Expl has). I believe Carter supplied the original OE fuel pumps to Ford, but for my money I recommend the Bosch pump.

2000-2001 Bosch 69128 kit (Note: O-rings and one of the pump insulators not needed). You will need a new strainer and fuel filter.
1596555731771.png
 






In my experience the in-tank FPR seldom go bad.

I botched the last few words of you quote so please forgive me if they are inaccurate; Cutting and pasting with a phone is tedious.

Thanks for the input on changing just the pump itself! If this was my daily driver I would change only what is necessary. As this is may Daughter's car, or even if it was my Wife's car, I don't want to skimp if I don't have to.

How can I tell if it is the pump failing or the pressure regulator?

Speaking of my Wife's car...we changed the complete assembly a few years ago for a similar long crank to start issue. It is also a 5.0 '99 and has the two (not three) visible rigid lines. And, the below pic is of its fuel pressure reading at idle.

This gives me the confidence to pony up a few dollars and get the whole assembly. I'll make sure to post up my results after the replacement.
 

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I agree with @koda2000 and others just buy the pump no need to replace the whole assembly
Wasted money imo
 






@leoJr - I guess the only way to know for sure if the issue is the pump or the FPR is to test the output of the pump and FPR separately. You'll have them both out along with the assembly and it only takes 2 wires (12V and ground) to run the pump. You can examine the FRP closely looking for any cracks in its housing. There's really nothing inside the FPR to go terribly wrong. It basically uses a spring which open a valve that dumps excess fuel pressure directly back into the tank. To me it's a complete waste of money to change the whole assembly unless there's something wrong with it. There's nothing magical/mysterious about it, but its your money. In every one of my 6 cases it was obvious my pump was the problem as it would run intermittently or not run at all.

At this point further discussion of your problem is pure speculation. Time to get your hands dirty.

What's that a pic of showing 65 PSI?
 






Speaking of my Wife's car...we changed the complete assembly a few years ago for a similar long crank to start issue. It is also a 5.0 '99 and has the two (not three) visible rigid lines. And, the below pic is of its fuel pressure reading at idle.
 






Glad you have found the issue! Save money just replace the pump
The regulator and sender are usually good for like 300-400K miles OR MORE
 






In every one of my 6 cases it was obvious my pump was the problem as it would run intermittently or not run at all.
The pump on low pressure Explorer runs consistently. And I hear ya on just changing the pump...thanks.

At this point further discussion of your problem is pure speculation. Time to get your hands dirty.
Yes it is! Parts will be ordered on payday.

What's that a pic of showing 65 PSI?
That pic is of the fuel pressure gauge on my other '99 5.0 that has a new assembly installed a year or so ago. This was primarily taken for my sake to confirm that 65psi is indeed my target.

Thanks again for everyone's input!
 






Glad you have found the issue! Save money just replace the pump

This is hard for me to do and is why a simple engine overhaul of new rings, bearing inserts and gaskets usually costs me a new cam, ported heads and intake.
 






That pic is of the fuel pressure gauge on my other '99 5.0 that has a new assembly installed a year or so ago. This was primarily taken for my sake to confirm that 65psi is indeed my target.

Dropped the tank and put in the new assembly. This is the pressure reading after key cycling it a few times because of the air in the lines. Starts much faster now, hot or cold.
 

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It's in spec

Nice job
 






I need some help. I have a lot of misfire codes on a 2001 ford explorer 5.0 and both o2 show have lean codes. I recently put a cam in it. It is running like **** right now. I thought it might be coil packs or the fuel pump. Where is the fuel pressure gauge hitch up spot on the 5.0s
 






Fuel rail passenger side of the upper intake there is a schrader valve

What year 5.0?
96-97.5 return fuel is 42 psi rail pressure
98-01 returnless fuel is 68 psi rail pressure
 






I need some help. I have a lot of misfire codes on a 2001 ford explorer 5.0 and both o2 show have lean codes. I recently put a cam in it. It is running like **** right now. I thought it might be coil packs or the fuel pump. Where is the fuel pressure gauge hitch up spot on the 5.0s
What are the specs of the cam you put in?
 






Fuel rail passenger side of the upper intake there is a schrader valve

What year 5.0?
96-97.5 return fuel is 42 psi rail pressure
98-01 returnless fuel is 68 psi rail pressure
I tested the fuel pressure and it was fine. I pulled one spark plug and it was gaped bad so I'm going to re gap all of them. Would bad gaping cause lean codes? I also have a random misfire code and a cylinder 4 misfire code.
 






What are the specs of the cam you put in?
I got to look at the paper work. I had a shop get one and stick it in as I was gone for a few months. It idles nice and sounds good except when you wot it doesn't go like it should and at highway speeds it starts misfiring when you are going up a hill under load. It will flash the check engine light at me.
 






Need to take care of the codes first
Have you checked the firing order/ plug wire routing

If it was running well before a shop installed some camshaft then perhaps the shop can fix the misfires?
 






Did it ever run well with the new cam?
If not, I'd be looking in that direction. Maybe they screwed with something, maybe it's too much cam for the stock tune?
 



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Need to take care of the codes first
Have you checked the firing order/ plug wire routing

If it was running well before a shop installed some camshaft then perhaps the shop can fix the misfires?
I would get them to look at it but I'm over an hour away from them on base. I'm changing out the spark plugs tonight and checking the wires. I think it might be a bad injector though because I can't get the cylinder 4 misfire code to go away no matter what I tried.
 






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