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5.0 Sport Trac Lives

I'm actually working on a manual....ish
The speedo is not as bad as it sounds, there is a module on the driver frame rail of the ex (G force transfixed) which is 3 wires, this module is bolted to the side of the ex abs pump, wired into the abs plug, and that's it...The only other issue is the pats, which with an SCT tuner will fix that...
SVT

5.0 sport trac for dummies lol I would definitely need a copy! It would be handy, especiallyy when it comes to wiring for things like that

And am I mistaken, or can you also get around PATS by swapping all the lock cylindders and using the keys from the explorer?
 



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My spare Explorer parts include a 1998 dash harness, PCM, battery/alt harness, and under hood harness, GEM module.

I was planning to use the 98 PCM, but I know it has PATS, and the 96/97 may have a little less wiring(PATS module).

Will the 1996/97 Explorer PCM accept just the VSS signal directly from the trans tail shaft? That would solve that question of the ABS VSS signal etc.
You need the 96-97 ECU AND engine/trans wiring harness, as this is where the VSS signal gets to the ECU
I'm changing from EECIV because I've never liked the idea of spending tons of money on aftermarket devices to "trick" the computer into working with modifications. Now there are new aftermarket devices that can do very well, but those are completely unlike the SCT flashers for OBDII+ systems.

I'd prefer to learn one less method for tuning, the OBDII to current way, and skip the EECIV stuff. Way back when EECIV was considered low tech compared to OBDII. Now people are doing very well tuning the old EECIV cars, but I'd rather skip that.

I have one last reason to upgrade my 91 wiring. Ford was redesigning their wiring systems in the 90's. That's when new relays came out which swap between each other, all throughout the vehicle. I hated the old relays and wiring connectors. The Explorer was also part of the beginning of low current wiring inside the car, keeping as much of the high powered circuits under the hood etc. They also had master electrical control to monitor power loss, and cut power when headlights etc, are left on.

I'm going to try hard to install a GEM module, which gains me the better electrical control, plus a cruise control which I lose with a PCM change.

The V6 Explorer/Ranger swap are relatively simple because the 302 came in the perfect cousin vehicle. The Explorer parts are direct swaps.
:salute:

I understand now, and agree with you. Your biggest issue I see (besides pulling the dash) will be laying the harness in, but mostly getting your additional sensors near and for the HVAC. The instrument cluster is another deal (especially if you have the digital dash), while not impossible, it will be a task. And If you use the 98 over the 96-97, I'd get an SCT controller to delete the PATS. When I got my tune, I deleted PATS, EGR, and rear O2 sensors (so I can run without cats). If you wanted to (and I should have) you can get the entire emissions system deleted. When going into the inspection, they will check for DTC's, and "sniff" the exhaust with a machine, thats it. The state inspectors don't have the capability to tell what year the ECU is...
SVT
 






5.0 sport trac for dummies lol I would definitely need a copy! It would be handy, especiallyy when it comes to wiring for things like that

And am I mistaken, or can you also get around PATS by swapping all the lock cylindders and using the keys from the explorer?

To get around PATS, there are three ways I know...
1, wire in the PATS from the donor
2, use a 96-97 ECU
3, get a tuner and delete the PATS (recommended)

SVT
 






I guess I mean wiring pats from the donor, does pats have its own module? I thought it was part of the ECU, with a sensor in the column that picks up a signal from the key, and that replacing the llock cylinder so the explorer's key will turn the ignition switch is all that it takes to be able to start.
That's what I thought, but I could be (and probably am) wrong.
 






I wonder what wiring out pats involves. I think maybe that was what I was thinking about, but I didn't think it involved wiring.
 






You are, partially. Type B PATS (98-00 ranger) and Type E PATS (01- ranger) have different wiring....Here is a quote taken from another forum regarding Ford PATS....

Both the explorer and the ranger have a different style of PATS system, rewiring is necessary to fix this.
the explorer has PATS type “B”, under this system, the key sends a signal to the PATS transceiver, the transceiver then sends a signal to the PATS transponder (PATS module), and this then sends a signal to the PCM that tells it that its ok to run. For a type “B” system, if the PCM does not receive the “ok to run” signal from the PATS module, then it will still allow the motor to crank, but it will not send pulses to the injectors cutting all fuel.
Starting in 2001, the rangers began using the PATS type “E” system. The way that type “E” PATS is different is that it eliminates the PATS module (transponder) by integrating it into the PCM. Under a type “E” system, the coded keys send a signal to the PATS transceiver, the transceiver then takes the signal and sends it directly to the PCM where it checks to make sure that the key code is correct and then allows the motor to run. Under the type “E” system, if the PCM fails to detect the properly coded key, then it will do two things. First, it will not send pulses to the injectors to cut fuel to the motor. Secondly, the type “E” system has the starter solenoid grounded in the PCM, if it doesn’t receive the proper signal it will not ground the starter solenoid which keeps the motor from cranking when the ignition is turned.
Obviously, because we are using the PCM from an explorer with a ranger body harness, when you do the swap he PCM will be looking for a signal from a module that doesn’t exist. When you have the motor in the truck and you excitedly turn the key for the first time not only will it not crank (because the starter solenoid isn’t grounded), but even once you do ground the solenoid and get it to crank, it won’t fire because the injector aren’t firing.
To fix this, an Explorer PATS module must be wired into the truck. This will require a different transceiver and key because the two different PATS types use different transceivers and keys. The wiring is almost all done on the main interior harness which is located behind the dash on the ranger


SVT
 






Ahh okay, I understand haha so tuning pats out is DEFINITELY gonna be the simplest way
 






The Explorer 302 engine harness is unique from most other Fords, as that harness connects directly to the PCM. I wanted to use an intact Explorer engine harness to minimize custom harnesses, but that can't happen with the computer in the kick panel(Mustang, Mark VII).

I'll be using a 4.6 engine harness because it has a connector which matches the PCM harness connector from a Mustang. So I'll modify the engine harness as needed to fit the 302 with its two coils and DIS unit.

My Lincoln already has a cracked dash, so I'll replace that and do the dash wiring together. I have an entire Mark VII harness from long ago as spare.

It's much easier to modify major wiring by having spare harnesses, instead of using the one in the vehicle. That always gives you an example of where things are, were, still are etc.

I like doing wiring too.
 






I would think that Don(the original poster of this thread) programmed out the PATS. I didn't ask him if he did it because the Sport Trac didn't have a PATS module. That would be odd, they have the Ranger "E" type of PATS. I always thought that the Sport Trac was most like an Explorer.

Don didn't have to, but I did. Don used the 96-97 ecu, which doesn't have pats in the ecu, even though the vehicle does. Ultimately, it comes down to what the ecu has, not the vehicle. I ran a spare 97 ecu on my system til I got my 99 ecu re-programmed. (the st is my only means of transportation right now, and had to go to SCT dealer to get my custom tune) after I got my tune, I swapped in the 99ecu and loaded my tune and i was on my way....

SVT
 






SVT, how much of that manual-ish have you gotten so far? haha

the more i think about it, the more i think im gonna need one haha
 






Eric(99SportX) here made the first good swap thread, for his 99 Sport, many years ago. Read that if you haven't yet, most of what you need to know is there, besides these details we just went over about the PATS.

Eric's 5.0 swap into 99 Sport thread - http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=174211
 






man, that engine looks nice cleaned up. haha really, the only parts im confused by at the moment are the repinning SVT had to do for the 42 pin plug, whether the extension he did was necessary or if it was just cosmetic, and how the ac/high pressure switch needed to be modified. tuning definitely seems to be the way to go with the pats issue, even though 99sportx went the other way and wired pats to use the donor keys, tuning seems worth the money for the saved work, plus, im gonna want a tuner eventually anyway. since using a 99-01 donor eliminates the retun-vs-returnless issue, i think thats the extent of my questions/concerns.

ohh yeah, and the trans shifter cable, would the donors be used or the sport trac's?

i've taken more notes on these swap threads than i did in all my classes this last semester combined haha
 












man, that engine looks nice cleaned up. haha really, the only parts im confused by at the moment are the repinning SVT had to do for the 42 pin plug, whether the extension he did was necessary or if it was just cosmetic, and how the ac/high pressure switch needed to be modified. tuning definitely seems to be the way to go with the pats issue, even though 99sportx went the other way and wired pats to use the donor keys, tuning seems worth the money for the saved work, plus, im gonna want a tuner eventually anyway. since using a 99-01 donor eliminates the retun-vs-returnless issue, i think thats the extent of my questions/concerns.

ohh yeah, and the trans shifter cable, would the donors be used or the sport trac's?

i've taken more notes on these swap threads than i did in all my classes this last semester combined haha

The repinning was necessary, as a few wires are in the wrong spot, others need to be deleted. Extending was not really needed, as i had mine running before I extended it, but i didn't like how it was pulled tight against the intake. In my first startup video, you can see the 42 pin harness is pulled tight across the intake near the brake booster. For instance, the altenator charge wire goes through the 42 pin plug in the v8, the trac goes through a 12 pin plug under the abs pump. This is just one circuit that needs to be re wired. The trans shift cable can be reused. But the throttle cable is not long enough, and needs to come from the donor. Same with the cruise control cable and module...

SVT
 






The repinning was necessary, as a few wires are in the wrong spot, others need to be deleted. Extending was not really needed, as i had mine running before I extended it, but i didn't like how it was pulled tight against the intake. In my first startup video, you can see the 42 pin harness is pulled tight across the intake near the brake booster. For instance, the altenator charge wire goes through the 42 pin plug in the v8, the trac goes through a 12 pin plug under the abs pump. This is just one circuit that needs to be re wired. The trans shift cable can be reused. But the throttle cable is not long enough, and needs to come from the donor. Same with the cruise control cable and module...

SVT

Have you learned anything about the cruise control modules, whether they are all the same, those with the same wiring connector? I have a spare V8 CC module that I'd like to use for my car, but I wonder what if anything is different between vehicle models. The late 90's Mustangs have a different mounting bracket to locate them in the left fender, but I wonder if the actual module is the same as these Explorer units for example.

Swapping wires within a factory wiring connector is very easy, but it helps a lot to see how it's done first. The tiny plastic outer "locks" and internal locks are fragile, and simply need a tiny screwdriver to remove or move them aside.

A few good pictures would help too.

Every wiring connector has a plastic lock installed in it, they are a contrasting color.

First you have to be sure of what wires you are working with, which have to swap, be removed etc. You must write that down, and double check the locations on the connectors. Be sure that you are looking at the proper connector, male or female etc, they have tiny numbers on the connector locations also.

Once you know what wires you are working on, then begin with the actual connectors. There is a lock which has to come out before any wires may be removed. Look it over carefully, they generally can be pushed out(begun) with a screwdriver. Get them started, take your time to find that magic spot, carefully lift the lock out. Once the "outer lock" is out, then you can use a tiny screwdriver or pick, or paperclip if need be, to insert next to the needed wiring terminal, and gently move the plastic lock/pin protrusion to the side. That part takes a good eye, go slow until you are used to doing those.

With the plastic lock/pin moved slightly away from the terminal down inside the connector, then the terminal will easily slide out the back of the connector.
 

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Would it be possible to make a 42 pin adapter with the other two plugs? Hypothetically?
 






Yes, it would. I was actually just going to make an extension plug (like an extension cord) about 12 inches long, but opted against this as I didn't think it would look stock...

Update, found some more info about the G force transducer, and which vehicles have them..
1993–1997 Ford Bronco; 1993–2002 Ford Explorer; 1995–2001
4x4 Ford Ranger; 1997–2002 Mercury Mountaineer AWD
I checked my Trac and it does not have one. It will be mounted right under the driver seat on the driver framerail. As soon as I came across this info, I remembered seeing this on my ranger frame (I actually had to remove it from the frame when I did my dana 60 SAS). It's held on by two 13MM nuts, the module has studs, with a plastic locator pin located next to one of the studs. If ya'll are interested in a pic of one, I'll take one when I get back to my shop on monday, I'm out of town til then...

SVT
 



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I've seen that on many Explorers, I often wondered what it was to be there on the frame.

Below I have one picture I found that just barely shows it. It's at the left edge of the picture, inside the frame rail, above the fuel and brake lines. All you can make out there is the white label on the module itself.
 

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