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5.0 swap - w/ 4406

ahodges

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1996 XLT - 347 S/C
So the time has come to make my own 5.0 build thread. I already have the donor truck (its a 97 AWD Mounty) that I got a real good price. The plan is to put the 5.0 into my 96 Explorer and then transfer the 4.0 and its driveline into the Mounty. I have already found answers to most of my questions regarding the swap including all the 4406 transfercase swap info.

One question left un answer though is that the brake booster in the Mounty has a sticker that says 5.0l on it. Is that different than then one in my 4.0 OHV Explorer?

I have pictures posted of the Mounty in the last post on my 96 registery. I'll be following up with more pictures too.

Here is the link to my Explorer Registery..

Andrew's 1996 Explorer XLT

EDIT:

Main Parts List of finished product -

- Ford Racing 302 BOSS Block (Stroked to 347)
- Eagle rotating assembly
- AFR 185 heads (72cc)
- Explorer Express Supercharger kit (Eaton M90 pushing 7psi boost)
- COMP CAMS .540 intake lift .560 exhaust lift @ 280 and 283 duration
- Torque Monster Headers
- 75mm BBK Throttle Body
- 90mm SCT MAF
- 60lb Injectors

- BW4406 TOD transfercase
- Sport gas tank
- 2015 F150 front drive shaft (CV style) - custom adapted pinion flange and T-case adaptor
- Custom rear drive shaft
- Custom Moser 9" rear axle w/ Eaton Truetrac diff
- Caltracs Traction Bars

Dynoed RWHP = 350, Dynoed Torque = 385

If anyone has any questions I'd be happy to help as I'm sure I left something out along the way!
 


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ahodges

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ahodges

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Well last night the 5.0 swap has begun. I started by taking the 4.0 and trans out of the Explorer and got the front dressing taken off the 5.0!

Here are a few pictures, I'll get more from a better camera tomorrow.
 

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ahodges

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Actually I ran into a minor problem but is concerning me. Like I said earlier, my explorer is a 96 and the donor mountaineer is a 97. I found out the airconditioning condensor is a little different between the 2. My 96 condensor mounts to the core support and uses quick connects to attach to the lines which the 97 condensor attachs to the radiator and uses studs and nuts to connect the lines to the condensor. My question is, do I have to use the 97 radiator and condensor in my explorer?

Let me present my delema with this though. The radiator in my explorer is like new and the one in the mountaineer had lot of rust and dirt come out of it. I would also like to keep the original condensor in my explorer since it was working great and has less miles on it. My solution I thought of is if 96 explorers with the 5.0 had the quick connect lines then I could get new lines for mine when I put the 5.0 in and get the a/c lines off of a newer explorer in the junkyard to make the connections with the 97 condensor.

What are your thoughts? Did I think this through correctly?
 




ahodges

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Well I worked on it some more with a buddy all yesterday and into the night. We got the 5.0 out and the trans out of the mountaineer and put the 4.0 transmission back into the mountaineer.

Now I'm trying to figure out how much of the engine bay wiring I need to swap and figuring out the parts I'm going to need.
 




ahodges

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Here are some more pictures. For some reason I can't get the pictures from my good camera to upload directly so these are from my iPad. Not so great..
 

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ahodges

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Well I made a lot of progress in the last 2 days. I got the 4.0 installed in the Mountaineer and it started on the first try!

I have 2 problems though..

1st problem is that the temp gauge never goes all the way down to cold. It starts at just below normal and goes up to just below hot. Any ideas why it is doing this?

2nd problem which maybe unrelated to the swap is that the wipers wouldn't work on any setting except high. Once I got them to turn on I now can't get them to turn off. They are stuck on high. Any ideas about this one?
 




ahodges

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Well the problem with the wipers was the GEM, so I got one from a 97 explorer and those work again but the temp gauge still reads high all the time like I explained before. I also now noticed that the outside temperature reading on the overhead counsel doesn't read at all. It's bottomed out at -40 degrees.

But anyhow I did change the grill to a 98 mountaineer and got everything else working. It looks and runs great!

Here is before

DSC_0149.jpg


My best friend PB Blaster is sitting on the core support in this picture
DSC_0145.jpg


This is after

DSC_0160.jpg


DSC_0161.jpg
 




gmanpaint

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Congrats on the swap! Lots of work right there!

I just now seen this, or I would have suggested the ECM's might need swapped as well. Diff circuit configurations in those harness pin outs I would think.
 




ahodges

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Thanks gman! I'll be more excited once the 5.0 is all rebuilt and putting down around 400 hp!!

By ECM's you mean the main computer that the engine harness plugs into right? If so I did swap those already. I'm just wondering if they used a different temp sending unit in 97 compared to 96 for the engine temp.

I was thinking that the overhead counsel issue could be that I still don't have the right GEM module even though I got one out of another 97?
 




gmanpaint

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97 is when they started to really change things up on the Ex. Late year models especially. 98 had lots of changes, but early 97 had lots similar with the 96.

Looking at Rockauto.com, they use the same sending unit.
MOTORCRAFT Part # DY1144

ECM, PCM, Pooter, Brains, thingamajig, etc....Yeah, that thing. :D

Try swapping out the Gauge cluster pod with the 97's pod. Those do come in different configurations, and can read whacky when things get changed up.
 




joshuaj0214

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When i did my swap i used a 98 mounty donor into a 98 sport. Even thou they were the same year there were a bunch of differences between the two. I had to change the radiator and condenser in mine because of the mounts and lines and the entire front harness. Congrats on the swap! It is hands down the best mod i have done so far!
 




ahodges

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97 is when they started to really change things up on the Ex. Late year models especially. 98 had lots of changes, but early 97 had lots similar with the 96.

Looking at Rockauto.com, they use the same sending unit.
MOTORCRAFT Part # DY1144

ECM, PCM, Pooter, Brains, thingamajig, etc....Yeah, that thing. :D

Try swapping out the Gauge cluster pod with the 97's pod. Those do come in different configurations, and can read whacky when things get changed up.

Ok. Thanks for the quick research! I'm trying to keep my 96 as original as I can, it only has 126k on it. I might try another cluster out of a junkyard 96 and see if that fixes it, otherwise I'll just live with the gauge reading high in the Mounty. The truck I'm trying to keep perfect and mostly original is the 96. I'm just wired like that :)
 




gmanpaint

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The cluster is made up of 3 pods. Just replace the gauge pod portion. It wont change the appearance of anything. Some are made differently for certain makes & models. This may cure it, it may not, but wont hurt a thing in doing so. The center pod is the only one that will, as the mileage reading will be different.
 




ahodges

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When i did my swap i used a 98 mounty donor into a 98 sport. Even thou they were the same year there were a bunch of differences between the two. I had to change the radiator and condenser in mine because of the mounts and lines and the entire front harness. Congrats on the swap! It is hands down the best mod i have done so far!

Yeah ivebeen learning about the many radiator and condenser changes too. I had to switch mine too. Once I go to put the 5.0 in my explorer I'm going to buy a new radiator for that. I want everything fresh with a new engine.
It's crazy how many differences there are within the 96, 97, and 98 year range.. :rolleyes:
 




ahodges

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The cluster is made up of 3 pods. Just replace the gauge pod portion. It wont change the appearance of anything. Some are made differently for certain makes & models. This may cure it, it may not, but wont hurt a thing in doing so. The center pod is the only one that will, as the mileage reading will be different.

Oh, so you're saying to separate the clear plastic off of them and only switch the temp and gas gauge pod? I didn't realize you could do that.
 




ahodges

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Temp gauge solution

Ok. I figured it out. I took both gauge clusters out of my trucks to compare. The 96 has an orange circuit print and the 97 mountaineer has a purple one. I tried switching just the temp and gas gauge pod but then then temp gauge read low. I then put the entire 96 gauge cluster in the 97 and the gauges all read fine but the "check engine" light was showing up in the "fuel cap" light spot. I spent about an hour comparing wiring and found that the 97 had an extra black wire in the number 9 spot on the 16 pin harness. This proved un important in getting the 96 cluster to work in the 97 truck though, I just hope it does prove to be a pain when I get the 5.0 running in the 96... Anyways, the only wire I found to be different was the 97 had pink wire w/ a light green strip in the number 9 spot on the 12 pin connector that needed to be put in the number 2 spot in the 10 pin connector (because that is how the 96 is).

That fixed all the instrument panel problems I had with the 97 mountaineers cluster. I know that was really confusing but I'd be happy to clarify for anyone who has questions or input.

Ill post a couple pictures when I'm back to my labtop.
 




gmanpaint

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Sorry, didn't see your reply till just now. Whoops.

So by now you realized how the cluster is made of 3 diff pods. They also have different circuitry on the backs of them form year to year. It is more than just the wires in the harness.

Easiest way to see if a pod will work in another cluster or not, is to see if any needles peg out when power is switched on (key on). If none of the needles peg out (maxed) that pod should work.

I went thru this problem myself a while back, and with the help of another member here, I got mine sorted out just as you will. :)
 


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ahodges

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Here are the pictures I promised.

The first shows how the gauges come apart.

The second shows that the temperature gauge is reading normal with the 96 cluster in the 97's dash.

The third is showing that I sucessfully got the check engine light to work with the older style cluster (bottom right yellow light).
 

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