5R55E Problem Appreciate any Help

[CAG8R]

I have been reading for a couple days now and have not found my exact problem. I feel that the problem might be in the VB, but not sure. So I will explain what happened and see if any one has experienced this issue.

I have a 1999 Ford Explorer 4X4 4.0L. In February, 2006 my wife called me saying the truck was not shifting right and the rpm's were very high. She also said the O/D was flashing. I told her to pull over and wait for me. After arrival, I started the truck and noticed no flashing O/D light or any other issue. Therefore, I decided to drive it around for a while. I went less than a block and it sounded as if I threw a rod. Very loud noise sort of like a small explosion. Afterwards, it was as if I were in neutral. The engine was running normal, but no thrust at all. I drifted to the side of the road. The flashing O/D came back on. I tried every gear including reverse and nothing would happen. However, if I tried to put it in park with the engine running, it sounded horrible like I was trying to start an engine that was all ready running. So I would shut off the engine and put it in park. After trying for thirty minutes to get it to move unsuccessfully, I called the tow company. After a "bad" recommendation from a friend I had to towed to a local transmission company. Strange thing occurred then. After removing the truck from the flat bed, I was able to get it to go into all the gears and even drive it. It was shifting hard though. Therefore, I left it there to see what they suggested. They told me most likely the transmission would need to be rebuilt. However, after pulling the transmission they found nothing wrong and told me it was the transfer case causing the problem. They replaced the transfer case and reinstalled the transmission for the small fee of $2,500.00! It drove perfectly for the last ten months, and Walla exactly the same thing happened on Friday. Exactly the same thing even the part about unloading it from the flatbed. This time (nothing under warranty) I asked to just drop the pan for me. They said it was full of metal. I looked at what they called full of metal and question this. The magnet in the bottom of the pan did have metal particles on it, but I would say more like a fine powder. No signs of metallic pieces that I am more accustomed to seeing in a manual transmission. Note: I know nothing about automatics other than reading your great post on the valve body diary. I had him change the fluid and filter and drove it home. He told me that it needed a rebuild again, but I sure wasn't going to fall for that again. That led me to here. On the way home, I think I wound up in limp home mode. I could not drive over 55 mph as the RPM's were getting high nearly 5000. It felt to me, like it would not shift into third gear. It has been sitting in the garage since. Please enlighten me to any suggestions you might have. Thank you very much in advance!

 

[Bent Bolt]

Was a new/rebuilt transfer case installed the first time ????? If a used one was installed, it just failed the same way as the first. With the engine reving high, the t-case maybe in 4-low. Or there might be a real trans problem.
Take it a different trans shop or Ford dealer.

 

[CAG8R]

The transfer case was replaced with a rebuilt one. No, it is not in four wheel low. You can tell when the transfer case is engaging the front wheels and it definately is not engaged. This truck has never been in four wheel drive other than three or four times a year that I purposely engage it just to make sure it still works. Also, I tested the function off the transfer case this morning and it does work fine. It shifts in and out of four wheel drive both high and low just fine. I am really hoping that Glacier can comment on this issue. I am wondering if rebuilding the valve body will help this situations at all or if my O/D band is gone. Note, I also checked the fluid level and color it is normal. Of course it was just replaced, or at least three or four quarts of it along with the filter. I disconnected the battery today for half an hour and then replaced. Took it for a drive and it did the same as yesterday. It will not shift out of second gear. Then the O/D light flashes but no code is generated. At least none that I can download via my cheap Actron OBD II scanner. I will go to Ford dealership tomorrow and let them tell me that I need to rebuild the transmission. I have no confidence in the dealer.

 

[Glacier991]

I'm looking at your post now, but let me tell you Bent Bolt's knowledge base is way ahead of mine.... we are indeed fortunate to have someone with his knowledge offerring assistance on this board. Maybe with his help and the help of others we can get some idea.

The 4405 TC has several well documented problems. They really benefit from some modifications to the case and to the shift fork. - rarely done in a typical "rebuild"

It is not sounding to me like we know for sure whether you have a repeat transfer case problem standing alone, a transmission problem standing alone or some combination of the two.

If a replacement of the Transfer case fixed the exact same problem before, and it ran fine without any transmission work until now, and the symptoms mirror the previous ones, it tends to support a theory that it is once again the transfer case.

Can you get a sense if the transmission is shifting through ALL the gears... can you count the shifts ? 3000 rpm plus suggests 3rd gear is missing. 5000 suggests something far more serious. In a trans, major slippage for example. TC issues I will leave to others... I claim no special expertise on them at this point.

 

[CAG8R]

I meant no offense toward Bent Bolt. Hopefully, it did not come off that way, my apologies.

From what I can tell, it shifts twice, quite hard both times. After the second shift, it will never shift up again. It shifts at around 15 mph, and then stays there forever until the engine redlines. Playing with the throttle does nothing. Letting it coast, no throttle applied, does down shift and stay there until repeated throttle application. I suppose the transfer case could be bad, but I honestly don't think it was bad the first time. My wife dropped the car off at a local shop the first time while I was overseas on business. These guys were idiots and I have since learned (two days ago) gone out of business. It is still there under "new" management. Same kind of fly by night idiots though. As soon as I told him the O/D was flashing he immediatley replied with you are going to need a rebuild! Of course they do not warranty the previous owners work!

 

[Bent Bolt]

I meant no offense toward Bent Bolt. Hopefully, it did not come off that way, my apologies.

From what I can tell, it shifts twice, quite hard both times. After the second shift, it will never shift up again. It shifts at around 15 mph, and then stays there forever until the engine redlines. Playing with the throttle does nothing. Letting it coast, no throttle applied, does down shift and stay there until repeated throttle application. I suppose the transfer case could be bad, but I honestly don't think it was bad the first time. My wife dropped the car off at a local shop the first time while I was overseas on business. These guys were idiots and I have since learned (two days ago) gone out of business. It is still there under "new" management. Same kind of fly by night idiots though. As soon as I told him the O/D was flashing he immediatley replied with you are going to need a rebuild! Of course they do not warranty the previous owners work!

You'll have to try ALOT harder to offend me!!! LOL!!!

The first time it failed, you couldn't shift into park with the engine running because the output shaft was turning due to a failed transfer case.ANd when you do get it into park, the truck will roll away. Probably a shift fork failure. Seen it happen quite a bit. There have been times when the shift fork fails and the hub inside the t-case moves into the 4-low postion even tho the switch is in thw 2wd postion. Also the shift motor can give you grief and shift itself into 4-low. But if you have already gone through the ranges and that seems to work normal???

Have the same symptoms come back???

The O/D lamp flashing is not a result from a transfer case problem. There is an issue with the trans. My first guess would be blown out valve body gaskets and failed EPC solenoid.

 

[BrooklynBay]

It's not a good sign to see metal shavings in the pan. What kind of rebuild did they do the first time? Was it a soft parts rebuild only (no hard parts)? How many miles ago was this performed? Metal shavings could clog the valve body, cooler, and other internal passage ways.

 

[CAG8R]

You'll have to try ALOT harder to offend me!!! LOL!!!

The first time it failed, you couldn't shift into park with the engine running because the output shaft was turning due to a failed transfer case.ANd when you do get it into park, the truck will roll away. Probably a shift fork failure. Seen it happen quite a bit. There have been times when the shift fork fails and the hub inside the t-case moves into the 4-low postion even tho the switch is in thw 2wd postion. Also the shift motor can give you grief and shift itself into 4-low. But if you have already gone through the ranges and that seems to work normal???

Have the same symptoms come back???

The O/D lamp flashing is not a result from a transfer case problem. There is an issue with the trans. My first guess would be blown out valve body gaskets and failed EPC solenoid.

Both the first and now the second time, I could not get the shifter back into park with the engine running. Why would things go somewhat back to normal both times after a trip on the flat bed? Can a shift fork failure repair itself? I am not being faceous, just curious. I don't know anything about the transfer case. I tried to shift into 4WH & 4WL this mornign and then back into 2WD with no problems. It is quite obvious going in circles on pavement when the front axle is engaged/dissengaged. I should have never bought a 4WD for the wife. We never go skiing anyway. If I am reading your assessment correctly, it appears my transfer case is working correctly and the transmission might be OK after a thorough cleaning and valve body rebuild, plus upgrade goodies listed in the diary, along with a new EPC solenoid. I am going to take it to the dealer in the morning and see if he can at least read what code I am generating for the tranny. I have another question about the TC. If the switch is in auto position, which is normally in 2WD, but the transfer case is broken and stuck in 4WL, will the indicator for 4WL on the dash be correct?

 

[CAG8R]

It's not a good sign to see metal shavings in the pan. What kind of rebuild did they do the first time? Was it a soft parts rebuild only (no hard parts)? How many miles ago was this performed? Metal shavings could clog the valve body, cooler, and other internal passage ways.

Unfortunately, the first time they did not do anything. In their own words, they took the tranny out and could not find anything wrong. They said the tranny is good, but the TC is shot. They put in a rebuilt TC and reinstalled the tranny. I would not call what I saw shavings, but more like black powder. Almost like what you clean out of an electric shaver. Ahh, now I see why that would be referred to as shavings! Anyway if that is bad, then I had quite a bit of them. I would say about a 1/16" on top and around the sides of the bar magnet. For the money I laid out in February, I could have had a truly rebuilt tranny and TC installed. I wish I had been home for this. At the time, being out of the country, I just told the wife to take it some place close to the house, big mistake! Oh, almost forgot, it was around 8,000 miles ago in February. Right around 64,000 miles, it has 72,000 now. All highway, very easy miles.

 

[97Ford_Exploder]

"On the way home, I think I wound up in limp home mode. I could not drive over 55 mph as the RPM's were getting high nearly 5000." same problem I have. I was told the torque converter is N/G. I had the tranny flushed and code cleared drove for 100 miles on the highway and the od light is back on again. The rpms at 65 mph went from 2400 to 3200 I'm waiting for the big bang. I am looking into replacing the whole transmission being no one around my area is capable of repairing things its just better to go for whole transmission get a warranty from aamco.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Check WWW.ATRA.Com for a certified shop in your area.

 

[CAG8R]

Well, I double checked the function of the transfer case again this morning and found no issues at all. I was able to move into and out of 4WD with no problems. I even took a road test in 4WD Hi, and had no issues with the tranfer case, but I still could not get out of what I would call second gear. The transmission shifts once at around 10-15 mph and never again. I took it to the Ford dealership and will get to know what the code is by Thursday at the latest. They are booked solid for transmission work, no kidding! This little check will set me back $225.00! They are charging $135.00 an hour no at the dealership. I wish I would have just tore it apart my self. I am sure he is going to tell me I need a rebuild or at least a valve body rebuild which I could have at least ordered from Glacier. He is only a couple hours from me. I will keep you posted to the outcome from the dealer. He did have one interesting note. If I purchase a factory remanufactured transmission, it will come with a 3/75,000 mile warranty. It is $2,500.00 just for the transmission though. I am sure another $1,000.00 to install it.

 

[Bent Bolt]

Well, I double checked the function of the transfer case again this morning and found no issues at all. I was able to move into and out of 4WD with no problems. I even took a road test in 4WD Hi, and had no issues with the tranfer case, but I still could not get out of what I would call second gear. The transmission shifts once at around 10-15 mph and never again. I took it to the Ford dealership and will get to know what the code is by Thursday at the latest. They are booked solid for transmission work, no kidding! This little check will set me back $225.00! They are charging $135.00 an hour no at the dealership. I wish I would have just tore it apart my self. I am sure he is going to tell me I need a rebuild or at least a valve body rebuild which I could have at least ordered from Glacier. He is only a couple hours from me. I will keep you posted to the outcome from the dealer. He did have one interesting note. If I purchase a factory remanufactured transmission, it will come with a 3/75,000 mile warranty. It is $2,500.00 just for the transmission though. I am sure another $1,000.00 to install it.

Well Ford does have a really good warrenty..........

Why does the t-case "correct" itself after a ride on the flat deck??? One reason------ angles!!! When the Explorer is winched onto the deck, it's at , say a 45deg angle ?? If the condtions are just right, and** IF** it is the shift collar/ shift fork thats failed, the angle that the vehicle is in when it's winched on to that deck is enough for the collar to slid back into the right spot to operate for awhile.

Wild, EH ???

I am not pulling your leg. have seen it before and on a Super Duty as well.

Lets find out what the flashing O/D is and what the DTC's are. We'll go from there, OK ??

 

[CAG8R]

Wow, that is some wild "sheep", if that is what is happening. I can believe it, I have seen more weird things happen, but that is bizzare. According to Ford, there is nothing wrong with the TC, if I can shift into and out of 4WD. That is from yesterdays meeting with the genious service manager. I asked specifically to speak with the technician that will be inspecting my vehicle. I will mention your thought on the shift fork and the flatbed incline. Pulling the TC is a major PITA, yes?

 

[NHale623]

Don't know that I would characterize it as major. It isn't that hard, not nearly has bad as pulling the transmission or engine.

 

[CAG8R]

The response from the dealer today was unbelievably dissappointing. The told me that the could not pull a code even though the O/D light was flashing. Plus they could not work on the transmission without first fixing the other problems with the engine. I have the cold start problem, with the green lower intake manifold O-rings that are dried up. It was around 29 this morning and they left it outside all night. I told them to wait until after lunch and it would idle just fine. The did not believe this and refused to touch, which in turn P'd me off. I told them to forget about it and I would come pick it up. They said that they still are going to charge me for one hour. I told them that I wasn't going to come pick it up until tomorrow. He asked why and I told if I come over there today I might shoot someone. So I will go pick it up tomorrow and tear it apart myself. One of the relatives loaned my wife a car, so at least I have some time to try and fix it.

Glacier: If you read this and have a completed valve body drop me a note and I will purchase it. Thanks.

 

[Glacier991]

I have a VB that I have rebuilt but want to go through with some newer mods.... and will not be able to get to it until after the 1st of the year. I'm more than happy to let you try it out, but honestly I am somewhat dubious your problem is that simple. But like I said let me run through it and add a couple things and then you are welcome to try it out. If it doesn't fix things you can return it.

One thing to remember is that this transmission is electronically controlled so other problems can manifest themselves in odd performance...the old computer adage, GIGO (garbage in, garbage out).

I'd be curious to see if Bent Bolt doesn't agree with my thinking on the VB issues. BUT, where else can you try and if it doesn;t work return it ?

What is your fluid condition and when was it last changed etc ?

ps. shavings is not the black crud that accumulates on the magnet, that is normal - just as you describe. I think that is mainly microscopic pieces of the steel/friction interfaces. Shavings in my mind are bright metal pieces, however small ...cut, not ground.

 

[CAG8R]

I have a VB that I have rebuilt but want to go through with some newer mods.... and will not be able to get to it until after the 1st of the year. I'm more than happy to let you try it out, but honestly I am somewhat dubious your problem is that simple. But like I said let me run through it and add a couple things and then you are welcome to try it out. If it doesn't fix things you can return it.

One thing to remember is that this transmission is electronically controlled so other problems can manifest themselves in odd performance...the old computer adage, GIGO (garbage in, garbage out).

I'd be curious to see if Bent Bolt doesn't agree with my thinking on the VB issues. BUT, where else can you try and if it doesn;t work return it ?

What is your fluid condition and when was it last changed etc ?

ps. shavings is not the black crud that accumulates on the magnet, that is normal - just as you describe. I think that is mainly microscopic pieces of the steel/friction interfaces. Shavings in my mind are bright metal pieces, however small ...cut, not ground.

Glacier:

Thanks, that sounds just fine. I totally agree on the shavings issue. Looks like normal black crud to me. No shiny metal flakes/slivers. As for the fluid, I think that is what caused the problem in the first place. Everything had been just fine, but I decided to get a flush done at the dealer in January of this year. The problem first happened in February and now again in December. The fluid was replaced in February and the pan was dropped last Friday so some of it was replaced then as well along with the filter. The fluid was normal in color and smell. There are no leaks at all. I keep a piece of white cardboard under this car in the garage.

 

[Bent Bolt]

The response from the dealer today was unbelievably dissappointing. The told me that the could not pull a code even though the O/D light was flashing. Plus they could not work on the transmission without first fixing the other problems with the engine. I have the cold start problem, with the green lower intake manifold O-rings that are dried up. It was around 29 this morning and they left it outside all night. I told them to wait until after lunch and it would idle just fine. The did not believe this and refused to touch, which in turn P'd me off. I told them to forget about it and I would come pick it up. They said that they still are going to charge me for one hour. I told them that I wasn't going to come pick it up until tomorrow. He asked why and I told if I come over there today I might shoot someone. So I will go pick it up tomorrow and tear it apart myself. One of the relatives loaned my wife a car, so at least I have some time to try and fix it.

Glacier: If you read this and have a completed valve body drop me a note and I will purchase it. Thanks.

I am sorry the dealer gave you a hard time. I try to steer people toward that option because they are supposed to be the best in the industry-- better diag equipment, more info, better training-- then experinaces such as what you had blows it all to crap. Any other dealers that you can go to?? Tell your story, it might get you some simpathy. Every dealer likes to do better that the one down the street!!!

I am very concerned about the transfer case.I stand by my diag that there is something wrong. When you had the failures and tried to put the trans in park,it made that grinding/ratching nosie. That IS due to the output shaft turning when it is not suppose to. Much like trying to select park while the vehicle is moving.

You need to get the DTC's from the vehicle. There maybe more than one problem here. Does the O/D lamp flash only after the vehicle stops moving???

 

[CAG8R]

I am sorry the dealer gave you a hard time. I try to steer people toward that option because they are supposed to be the best in the industry-- better diag equipment, more info, better training-- then experinaces such as what you had blows it all to crap. Any other dealers that you can go to?? Tell your story, it might get you some simpathy. Every dealer likes to do better that the one down the street!!!

I am very concerned about the transfer case.I stand by my diag that there is something wrong. When you had the failures and tried to put the trans in park,it made that grinding/ratching nosie. That IS due to the output shaft turning when it is not suppose to. Much like trying to select park while the vehicle is moving.

You need to get the DTC's from the vehicle. There maybe more than one problem here. Does the O/D lamp flash only after the vehicle stops moving???

Bent:

The noise was exactly like you were trying to put the vehicle into park while it was still moving. It has not happened since. The O/D is off until I reach the failed shift point at around 30-40 mph. It remains flashing until the vehicle is turned off. Disconnecting the battery did nothing. I work a ten hour shift, Wednesday through Saturday. I will try to start tearing it apart tomorrow. I will pull the TC as well. That is if the wife will allow that on Christmas Eve and Christmas. Honestly, I am not looking forward to performing this task over Christmas either. But I will be gone to Vegas for New Year's and Arizona for the Championship game, so I don't have much choice. I doubt if I will be able to finish it though. Glacier won't have a valve body ready until next year anyway. Thanks for your assistance. If I do manage to get it out, I will take pictures and post them. Merry Christmas to all! Go Gators!