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5r55e Reverse Servo fell out when cover removed

Balke

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2001 Sport Utility
Im doing valve body work right now , and i removed the valve body 5r55e , and when i removed the Reverse servo cover , the servo fell out with it .??? Ive got new o ring for it , but what ???? if no answer ,, ill just put it back in and hope for the best . should not there be a snap ring to hold the servo in ??? what ?? My truck works great in reverse ,, so ??? anyway i found a blown out upper plate gasket . I will now just clean the screen ,, install epc and tcc solenoids , and thermo blocker , and throw it back together with new gaskets .
Look , i know that his may be a very stupid question ,, but if i get an answer ,, it will save me big time trouble . I have a 100 page info that covers everything , including all the codes .
Ok i will look it up and see and if snap ring needed ,, then i will try and get one here in town at tranny shops before reinstalling . This is the first time that i ever dropped a valve body so this is why im asking .
 


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transman304

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Nothing holds it in but the cover. Should not have a spring in with it also if it fell out on its own then you need new O-rings.
Brad
 




Balke

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Nothing holds it in but the cover. Should not have a spring in with it also if it fell out on its own then you need new O-rings.
Brad
Nothing holds it in but the cover. Should not have a spring in with it also if it fell out on its own then you need new O-rings.
Brad
I installed the new O ring to the servo , but then it would not go in it was too tight . it is one of those double edged ones .. anyway , it was all back together by last night and this evening , i already added the ATF , , it took 7 1/2 ltres . The truck was on front stands , pitched downward to the rear so the tranny was at a slant , i dont know if it has anything to do with this , but ATF kept dripping from case , slowly for a couple of hours , first just a little bit , and then a constant small stream . After starting the engine and filled ATF , 5 ltres , with the brake on ,, i went through reverse , drive, 1st and 2nd then i tried` to move the truck in reverse very softly , as i accelerated slowly ,, there was nothing ,, and then suddenly ,, clunk !! it clunked into reverse , and the truck started to move .
I was very relived just to have reverse , and i tried again and it shifted very smooth . ,, i moved the truck forward in 1st just a couple of feet , and again in drive , and then in reverse . Then i shut it down cause i was out of ATF , since nothing showed up on the stick yet ,, i had to cab it to the store to get more ( MERC V )
I then took the truck for a drive , and my OD light started to flash very early ( Original Code TCC stuck off )
I drove for 86 miles ,, and the truck performed way better , going out on the highway , it shifted 123 very early , then 4 , and then betwwen 80 and 100 kms /hr it shifted into 5 and the tack dropped down to 2500 rpms .. I have never had the truck shifting into 5 before like that , ( always had to jog the pedal )
Also , before i did this VB thing ,, i could never feel the 4 gear shift . I could barley even fell the third gear shfit , but now it is a definite 123 then 4 at some where around 60 kms / hr
On the way back ,, i had to jg the pedal to get shift 5 again . When i parked it at home ,, the reverse clunk is back again . Oh one more thing ,, I did stop a few times to check the levels and cool it down and i found it to be not really that hot at all , but 40 miles back i never stopped .
My separator plate screws and clamp bolt were torqued at 71 lb inch , and the VB bolts at 97lb inch.
Every bolt went into the right place , along with the actual very specific tightening sequence from the spec sheets,.
I marked 4 little trays from food packaging ABCD . I did not bother with E and F because E is the filter bolt and F are the 4 servo cover bolts and they are the shortest and left aside until all VB bolts are in .
I also copied the tightening sequence on a big piece of paper with big circles for the for the bolts , and inside the circles , i marked the order number 1 - 23 , and right beside the circles i marked the bolt lengths ,ABCD .
Also , before this VB service , my rpms at 100 kms were a bit higher than 2500 rpms , and at 120 kms / hr, my rpms were definitely up at around 3000 rpms . On the 40 miles , return trip , test drive , even though i was looking for that 5 again , and jogging the pedal ,, my rpms at 110 - 120 kms / hr were 2500 rpm . Also the truck seems to be moving a lot smoother ,, big time smoother , specially at around 70 kms / hr
Tomorrow i will go and have the codes red again , and cleared at garage .
Thanks for your reply .
 




transman304

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You may just need to reboot the PCM. Nothing told it you fixed the transmission. Take both cables OFF the battery and touch them together if possible or add a piece of wire or other conductor between them and keep connected for 2-3 minutes. When time is up separate the cables and install back on battery. This will have set the PCM to default mode and will start the relearn process. Drive as normal and it should adapt to the repairs done.
Brad
 




Balke

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Nothing holds it in but the cover. Should not have a spring in with it also if it fell out on its own then you need new O-rings.
Brad
Thanks ,, ya i did that ,, but only for a few seconds ,, ill try again , this time for longer . I heard some where to also turn on the lights and other accessories to let any little bit of juice left in there to drain .
Fun video on utube PRECISION TRANSMISSIONS says that usually when they find blown out plate gaskets , the trannys are burned up inside ,, but sometimes they can catch them . My tranny has 20 years on it and most likely damaged on the inside . Previous owner put low viscosity fluid in it , probably to try and hide or rectify the problem , of maybe leaky valves . Ive owned the truck for 2 years and in that time , i have done 3 pan drops , including this VB service , and each time I used new ATF and filters . I might have prolonged the life of the tranny in the realm of well , if the truck goes from A to B ,, well then it works ,, drive it .
Thanks again Brad
 




transman304

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You’re welcome for sure, and yes you’re correct on turning on some accessories to help drain the capacitors and stop the keep alive memory.
Good luck
Brad
 




Balke

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2001 Sport Utility
You’re welcome for sure, and yes you’re correct on turning on some accessories to help drain the capacitors and stop the keep alive memory.
Good luck
Brad
Im really glad that you further replied and are still online with my issue ,, because i,ve got a couple of questions.
The first is about the reverse servo .;; is whole servo supposed to move freely inside the bore , back and forth a little bit , or just that little solid round pin shaft type thing , coming up through the middle ?? because if so the latter , then i could have used the new O ring and tapped it in with a rubber mallet .
Second question is about fluid level . Another test drive , 40 miles , checking periodically , this time more often,,
dipstick not too hot to touch , and fluid , is only warm . ,, but the issue is , that when i stop , and quickly check the level with the engine idling in park , the level is too low , but as truck sits there idling , and i keep checking , the fluid level starts to rise up the dipstick little by little each time i check .
This indicates to me that while the truck is running down the highway , between 100 and 110 kms /hr , 2000 and 2500 rpms , , the fluid level is dropping to below the operating limit .
If i add fluid ,, then it will read way up the dipstick , past the full limit markings on a regular check , with the truck just sitting there for a while
Last year i found out that the fluid is pumping both ways , through the return , and the send , indicating to me that the fluid will travel the path of the least resistance .
My auxiliary cooler is a plate cooler , like a radiator , ;;...kind if makes no sense to me , because it has to fill up completely , in order for the system to work properly . The only reason that they changed over to this type of cooler , is to protect the lines and fins from being damaged from rocks and such . The send line , comes down through the radiator , then it goes up into the auxiliary cooler and has to fill it completely , where as , the original coolers , before they changed , does not have to fill up , because the line remains the same , besides the fact of the reducers , giving the line a larger diameter , as it runs back and forth between the cooling fins of the cooler .
On this second highway run ,, again , it shifted from 4 to 5 speed by itself ,, and on the way back , again i had to jog the pedal ,,.
Since the rpms , are 2000 at 100 kms /hr , and 2500 at 110 kms /hr , the system is running normally and the tccc is actually working , even though the OD light is flashing . ( tcc stuck off code ) If the tcc was off , then the engine would have to rev higher to pump more fluid to move the truck at the same speed .
I wired the two battery connections together for 4 minutes with the key turned on lights heater , etc, but when i went for the drive , the light started to flash in the same area , after about 2 .5 miles in the city .
I read some where , that the battery connection trick to clear codes , should be done for at least 5 minutes .
Perhaps i did not do this for long enough . Also i read somewhere , that in some vehicles , this trick wont work , because the pcm , or tcm , have their own power cell batteries to keep their memory stored .
I am going to install the continuous line cooler and remove the plate rad type of cooler .
Last year , i blew out the fluid lines , form the top of the radiator , down - up through the auxiliary plate cooler , and out the bottom of the cooler , and after , when i drove the truck ,, very slowly , for only 4 blocks , the O.D. light started to flash . At that time , i could drive the truck around the city all day long ,, before the light would start flashing .
One more thing ,, there are no air bubbles , in the fluid on the dipstick check , indicating air lock or too much fluid , when before i did this valve body service , there were air bubbles , when i had aprox. the same amount of fluid , that i have now .
I can also get a brand new line , from tranny to radiator but ill have to check first to see if i can get in there to change it . My line is twisted at the radiator connection ,, and it maybe interfering with the volume , and pressure , causing more resistance ,, thus causing the fluid to be pumped backwards .
P.S. In the Valve body service that i just did , I installed a thermo blocker , that makes the fluid be pumped to the coolers at all times .
 




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